I just keep tripping...

[Happyjoemay]

JayTheCPA & others, thanks for your thoughts and comments.
I am slowly trying to make the most logical updates as funds allow.
At this point I think I should simply replace the entire electrical system. It seems like it would be more logical for all of the systems and controls to be located together at the rear of my Sovereign taking advantage of the large rear hatch to aide in future access to the systems. I am thinking it would be easier to build an entire new system, use new panels and run the wiring along the interior walls within exposed galvanized steel conduit pipe, junctions, boxes and covers. I am also needing to replace the heating system ducts and am looking at an exposed flat oval steel duct product.
But, as noted by others as well as myself, I am not fully up to speed on how the dual 12v 115a systems work together. One comment from another person referenced the presence of an inverter. There is not an inverter currently installed if I understand what one looks like. Inverters are part of my learning curve that needs to be mounted.
I do hope to make the Airstream more road worthy as well. It needs axels, has rear end sag as well as all the rest of an interior. I hope to create a home that can again accommodate my son and myself as well as follow my son to college in the fall of 2020.

[sarge12212]

I agree, get rid of the electric water heater. It's too much of a power drain. A gas unit uses almost no power and heats much quicker. I also got rid of the furnace and heat ducts altogether. This fix may not be for everyone, but I installed a 10k btu blue flame propane heater and used the room from the furnace to install a 20 inch standard stainless steel range. I built a new, heavier bulkhead beside the refrigerator to hold the space heater. At the time, I had the camper in NW Arkansas. It worked well down to freezing temps. Ran the a/c in fan only mode to push the warm air around. Toasty!

[Spartan Rick]

Hi Joe,
Good for you. Good to see a trailer like that helping someone.
My Spartan has the ortiginal electrical system, no grounds and I can't trust in how wires might be passing through the ribs etc.. 'Some day I will open up the walls, insulate and re-wire, but until then I will live with extension cords etc.
Lots of ideas here, but the only things that come to mind; maybe try to isolate the circuits. Maybe use extension cords or even wire in some boxes independently ald load them to see what pops..?
One simple test might be the little plug in testers; polarity and ground.. eg.; https://www.itm.com/product/reed-r52...kaAuRDEALw_wcB That one is more fancy, having the GFCI.. Thinking if you run some boxes out to replace other circuits, you can see if the problem is in the wiring or panel.. (By boxes I mean a junction / outlet box fed from the panel..fed by the romex cable you would otherwise use in the walls.
Keep records of what you find out. Maybe if there is a Habitat for Humanity build going on somewhere, find out who is doing their electrical.. might be able to help out.
Hang in there. You aren't alone in finding out how little you can make do with.
Happy Christmas
Rick

[A W Warn]

A short term solution:
If there is a 120v outlet on the shore power pole, in addition to the 30 amp rv plug in, you could run a separate drop cord to power your electric heater (14 ga minimum, 12ga better). This would take the load off the system enough to keep hot water.

ps:
I think someone has already rewired. I think the yellow cable is not original to the trailer. And, I think that electrical system's label that says it "used to be" a 55amp converter/load center is not original. The original converter would have been labeled as "Univolt"

[Spartan Rick]

On heating, I've been below freezing a number of times and done fine with a couple of 110v 'ceramic' heaters, and a fan to circulate a bit. The Spartan came with a very scary non-vented propane heater on a wall.. Never even tried it.
If Joe is getting his power as part of the rent / deal, that's fine. I ended up putting in a woodstove myself, partly because I like it anyways. The trick was finding one small enough. It was a number of years back and cheaper as I remember, but htis is what I got, doing away with one closet section to fit it in. https://fourdog.com/two-dog-stove-dx/ To be honest, paid more than that again for proper rated 4 inch pipe / chimney. Also replaced wood panels with tin ceiling panels so nothing flammable withing reach and a local shop makes beautiful bright copper panels..
That is a proper airtight with baffle, but to be honest, needs feeding a bit through the night..
If you can, I'd agree with running a separate line right from your plug-ins to feed the heater, then figure out the rest.
Cheers,
Rick