How do I route AC-2 wiring

[cwf]

Howdy!
Y'all may know I'm considering a 1999 Excella 34. First, I hope you have interest and time to read and consider advising...my apologies in advance for my distorted humor...

The TT has 30 Amp service.

Lovely bride has informed me, "AC #2 needed before WE camp...! "... uh... "Sure, honey!"

Sooooo.. I am considering upgrade to 50A and new Penguin 13.5k. SOMEHOW ...

I THINK I want to have things appear to be 'factory'...one of my many disturbed character flaws...

I've seen other posts where great work was shown 'done'... but, I have been unable to find a video or post that shows HOW to route and avoid ribs or pinch points..

I know the reason I haven't found it is because of my lousy SEARCH ability...so I beg your understanding..

So, with surviving nearly 59 years, I've finally learned a new skill... ASK questions!!!! (Right, Honey?)

Rather than just ask "Please, tell me how.." while I sit back... I've put some thought into it just to amuse you guys.. ..

Having "decent" Home building/repair, Auto, Marine, Motorcycle, Airplane wiring skillzzz.. I thought to put some steps together..

Without further ado/angst, for your reading practice and amusement/disgust, are some steps (abbreviated where I think y'all would be too bored).. and so, we begin....

Steps?
1- freak out...crawl over to this website and search for a couple days...
2- locate/procure Penguin
3- DOCUMENT existing wiring in Square D (SqD) electrical box
4- Disconnect power lead from SqD, tie on 'fish tape' or strong nylon cord or another flexible and strong wire to PULL the NEW lead back into the SqD(existing lead has had some overheating, is 14 years old and I want to replace anyway)
5- carefully PULL the 30A cable from TT
6- carefully connect new 50A lead to Fish Tape, then, feed/push cable from exterior while 'helper' (Lovely Bride) pulls the "fish tape" to route the new cable
7- install proper MAIN 50A breakers in SqD for the 50A (GFCI if possible) (replace SqD with 50A Box if necessary???)
8- properly secure new main cable to SqD breakers (ensure there is SEPARATION of Neutral and Earth Ground ... SHOCKING!!)
9- ADD new 20A breaker in SqD for AC#2
10- REALLY FREAK OUT>>>

NOTE: At this time of intermission and a 2 Quart homebrew(not this morning, when I have the Excella in a compromised position), I ask you:
"How do you recommend routing the AC#2 power up to where the FanTasticFan will disappear?

Suggestions....after removal of FFan...
A- using Fish Tape, wiggle it from FFan vent opening, carefully, over to the SqD?
B- pull the new supply using the FFan DC wiring? not sure where it runs in the hull wall.
C- run conduit on inside ceiling wall? uh.. no..

Thanks for taking time to read and appreciate your suggestions and yes, tauntings...

Peace and blessings,
Channing

[Wazbro]

Some people have switched to a marinco outlet on their trailer when replacing the power cord, like the new Airstreams have.

If you have twin beds you could run the wires from the new A/C down inside the wall then under the bed and up to the SqD.

Not sure but the adapter to plug your 50 amp cord into 30 amp may only have 1 hot wire hooked up or have a 20 amp plug and a 30 amp plug, if this is the case you should make sure you hook the 1 wire or 30 amp wire up to all the 120V currently in your trailer and have the new A/C and an outlet near the SqD (for an electric heater, ect...) hooked to the other hot wire.

[richinny]

sift through these threads and you'll find some helpful info.

my former trailer had 30a and my new one has 50a. i was surprised how heavy the 50a cord is. some people have added a second line just for ac #2 with a second 20a cord. i rarely use the second ac but it is nice when you need it.

my 30a to 50a adapter powers everything, but not at once and you're limited to 30a.

everything 50a is $$$$. a replacement marinco female end is $75.00 and up! you might want to price the 50a upgrade first.

[cwf]

Thanks y'all. Processing all the info

[Protohyp]

You know my solution...just buy another AS that has two AC's problem solved. you know you are going to anyway.

[cwf]

Originally Posted by Protohyp

You know my solution...just buy another AS that has two AC's problem solved. you know you are going to anyway.

You know, I would miss all the fun?!!

[Jammer]

Hi cwf.

I have dual A/C and 50a on my trailer.

A few facts to consider.

1) You can run two A/Cs on 30a -- barely -- with nothing else running. A few trailers were made this way at the factory, and sometimes I have to do it because there is no 50a at the campsite and it's hot. Works OK if you run the fridge on gas, sometimes I shut off the converter too.

2) I'd strongly recommend using a Marinco inlet as Wazbro suggests. There are 30a cords available with a 50a marinco end on them and that's what you'll want to use unless you know you're going to run both a/cs because the 50a cord is heavy, expensive, and not very flexible. I almost always use the 30a cord and only pull out the 50a if there's a reason to use it.

Using a Marinco inlet will also save wear and tear on the cord and you won't have to pull the cord up through the walls, instead can use a shorter piece of 6-3 NM or UF, possibly easier to work with.

But pulling #6 wire through the walls in the location where the #10 was before may not work because of the difference in sizes. You might be better off running it along the surface of the interior wall using some sort of molding or trim if necessary to cover it.

Yes, some people just run a separate cord for the second A/C. Technically that's a violation of most electrical codes since they require a single power connection, but in a retrofit installation like yours there are plenty of benefits. Unless you are also installing an electric water heater or extensive electric heat you won't have a reason other than the A/C to upgrade to 50a.

[cwf]

Thx! All good points!

[HiHoAgRV]

I put a seperate breaker panel inside the street side rear end cabinet. I also opted for a 2nd power inlet, a 20amp, so I could run the rear air at locations that only have 30/20A service. It comes thru the shell at the same rear corner, right by the new panel.

I routed the wiring behind the padded panel along the floor, forward and into the bathroom. Along the floor behind the toilet, it then runs up the corner inside the trim that covers the vent stack. Once at the ceiling, I made a grommeted hole and then went rearward to the new airconditioner.

The drain pipe goes from the AC, turns forward and follows the wiring thru the ceiling, down along the vent stack, behind the toilet, under the sink and out thru the floor. One item that caused me problems - if you do your drain like this, use hard pipe with attached 90 degree fittings thru the ceiling. Flexible pipe tends to hump up and cause issues draining.