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Old 02-17-2021, 04:06 PM   #1
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House shore power...full usage inside?

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2016 25' FB International

We need to live in our trailer next to our house for a while.

If I plug into the house 110 with an extension cord what appliances can I use?

Water heater? (yes I now I can use the propane for this)
Fridge? (yes I now I can use the propane for this)
Microwave?

Thanks,
Mike
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Old 02-17-2021, 04:22 PM   #2
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Ok, it's like plugging multiple extension cords into a 30 Amp generator, instead of one main power cord, like from your Airstream.
You would want to run heaviest, shortest extension cords you can, from the house.Its done all the time, but do it as safe as possible.
And you want the cords to be plugged into different circuits in the house.
It's not ideal, but use outdoor use rated cords.
Plug into GFCI protected circuits, like in garage or kitchen, if possible.
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Old 02-17-2021, 04:24 PM   #3
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You can run pretty much anything that you would normally run in your house, on regular AC current, but not all at the same time. The only thing that is probably an "absolutely not" would be the air conditioner, but if you outfit it with an EasyStart, you could run that too.

Of equal importance, make sure you are using an outlet that has the largest possible breaker on it. For example in my house most of the circuits that serve lighting are only 15A circuits, whereas the outlets in the garage are a 20A circuit. Sometimes utility rooms and outlets under the kitchen sink are on a 20A circuit as well. Secondly, you want your extension cord to be as short as possible, and as thick of gauge (think 10-12 gauge wires) as you can reasonably get. No use in losing a large percentage of your power due to line losses in the cord.

good luck!
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Old 02-17-2021, 04:34 PM   #4
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Fridge for sure.
Microwave,Water heater, maybe, one at a time if they are the only thing running on the circuit you plug into. Water heater takes 1400 watts, or around 12 amps on a 15 amp plug. The microwave in convection mode also uses 1400 watts but I can't find any data on the microwave mode. It has 900 watts output but it takes substantially more than 900 watts of electricity to generate 900 watts of microwaves.


For either of those two you will need a short, heavy duty extension cord, at least 14 gauge wire and preferably 12.
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Old 02-17-2021, 04:42 PM   #5
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A 20 amp outlet would be better that a 15 amp.
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Old 02-17-2021, 05:31 PM   #6
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Great thanks.
Laundry room has 30amp (not the dryer outlet) and garage has 20amp.

Now to buy a thick gauge ext cord.
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Old 02-17-2021, 05:34 PM   #7
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I use a 30amp RV extension cord. I also travel with it and it has come in hand a couple of times.
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Old 02-17-2021, 05:44 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kbmwrs View Post
Great thanks.
Laundry room has 30amp (not the dryer outlet) and garage has 20amp.

Now to buy a thick gauge ext cord.
Something is wrong if the laundry has a 30 amp breaker (single pole) that's not for a dryer. Household receptacle circuits are limited to 20 amps, if you have a 30 amp breaker on a standard receptacle I suspect someone changed the breaker creating a hazard as the wiring will only be rated for 15 or 20 amps as will the receptacle.
Required 20 amp residential circuits since many years back are receptacles that serve the kitchen counter tops (min 2 circuit required), dining room, pantry (although dining & pantry are allowed to share with countertops and almost always do) and the clothes washer/laundry. In homes built under the 1996 NEC the bathroom outlets became 20 amps and most recently the garage requires a 20 amp circuit with at least one receptacle for each parking spot.
Is there a way you can get a 30 amp TT outlet installed at your electric panel?
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Old 02-17-2021, 07:46 PM   #9
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agree, the "best" solution is a properly installed 30A outlet (RV 30A outlets are unique, they require knowledge to be installed safely). Handymen can do it, but there are things you need to be careful about so with that in mind ....

I am not living in my trailer, but I store it next to my house, and I power it with a standard 110V cord (standard outlet). I have an adapter that goes between 30A to 20A, then use a thick gauge wire, get the thickest wire you can find. Get 12ga for sure, 10 if you can get it.

I can run anything, including the AC, as long as I don't run high demand items simultaneously. I have no need for simultaneous use, so in my case its a non issue, but the basic answer for you is that you can run *anything* with the possible exception of the AC unit. It all depends on the start-up current surge for your particular AC, there is some variance from one unit to the next. I also have an "Easy-start" module, but that is a recent addition, I was running the AC without the "Easy-start" on the standard 20A circuit.

Even with a 30A outlet, there is a chance you will trip a breaker if you run too many high draw loads simultaneous, its just more rare to have that happen.
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Old 02-18-2021, 09:51 AM   #10
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I’m in Texas. We use Bella year round. It’s parked outside. I put in a dedicated 20 amp outlet in the garage at the breaker box because that was easy. 10 gauge cords to the coach.

I use one of the AC or microwave, but the coach only allows one or the other. In the summer I run a separate smaller cord (14 gauge) to the refrigerator. Any time things change I get out the ammeter and measure the current.

An aside, but my biggest struggle has been the 30 amp cord connections. Any little water, plugging in with power turned on, dirt, etc will begin to compromise the connector contact. That leads to heating and will eventually melt the connector. So I’d recommend minimizing the number of connections, protecting the connections from weather and movement, and turning power off before connecting up.
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Old 02-18-2021, 09:56 AM   #11
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Shore Power at Home

Heavy-duty extension cord (2 conductor + ground) is very smart. You’ll know “heavy” when you feel it. Probably like nothing you already own. Mine’s long (100 feet) and fat and orange. Hook into a garage tool bench circuit if you have one (you’ll see that one’s protected by a 20-amp breaker if you check the panel). Be careful you don’t overload your chosen circuit by using it (with power tools, for instance) whilst loading up inside the trailer.

Your house circuit will be protected at the panel and your trailer circuits are protected, with breakers. A combination load from the trailer can still pop the house breaker. If possible, avoid using air conditioner in trailer. (That appliance will definitely “warm” the line.)
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Old 02-18-2021, 10:10 AM   #12
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Hi

If you have a 30A outlet in your laundry room, I'd bet it's a 230V 30A outlet. It would be a really good idea to check it before you go plugging this and that in ....

Bob
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Old 02-18-2021, 10:47 AM   #13
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we plug it into a 20A outside circuit over the winter.
it never needs more than a few amps
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Old 02-18-2021, 11:43 AM   #14
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What distance?

What is the cable run length of the drop cord you will need?
What is the length of the wire from your 30 amp outlet to the main breaker panel?
To total length will help determine the guage wire recommended.

Amazon does sell a nice 6 ga SOOW outdoor rated cable:
6/3 SOOW SO 600V Portable Power Cord Outdoor Durable Flexible Wire Cable (6/3 SOOW Cable, 150')


Then Lowes sells the plugs to go on the end of the cable, and you can end up with a really good 30 amp feed to your trailer.

As those above have mentioned: Please detail the 30 amp outlet that you have to make sure it is 120 volt. A picture would be nice.

If you are up to running a new branch circuit, Lowes sells a nice RV outlet enclosure for a 30 amp receptacle that easily mounts to the side of the house.

And for what is worth: Lowes also sells a GFCI rated 30 amp Breaker.

Note: you should design to not run more than 80% of any circuit rating.
So if you plug into a 15 amp outlet, do not design for the total load of that branch circuit to not exceed 12 amps.
and likewise a 20 amp branch circuit should not have a designed load of grater than 16 amps. This includes all other outlets on those branch circuits, so be aware that you might be more limited than expected when plugging into an existing outlet.
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Old 02-18-2021, 11:52 AM   #15
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30A AS cord?

Couldn't you use the 30A cord that came with your AS, adapted to plug into the house 110120 20A circuit? Unless you have a really long 30A cord, not sure you are saving much resistance by buying a dedicated 10 gauge or larger cord. But i may have misunderstood, and you have to run a cord longer than your AS 30A power cord will reach.
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Old 02-18-2021, 12:28 PM   #16
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Have a 30 or 50 amp RV power post installed.
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Old 02-18-2021, 02:42 PM   #17
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Couldn't you use the 30A cord that came with your AS, adapted to plug into the house 110120 20A circuit? Unless you have a really long 30A cord, not sure you are saving much resistance by buying a dedicated 10 gauge or larger cord. But i may have misunderstood, and you have to run a cord longer than your AS 30A power cord will reach.
I will be using the 30amp AS cord with adapter to house connected cord. I will use the 20amp circuit. Not sure if that cord by itself will reach the 20amp outlet in the garage...I'll try.

I will NOT being using more than two appliance at a time. No A/C. probably just water heater for a shower, frig and on occasion the furnace blower. Possible two at once..frig & water heater or furnace.

Thanks
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Old 02-18-2021, 09:29 PM   #18
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I agree with Brick1. Have the 30 amp RV hook-up installed as near the trailer as you can get it. If within 50 feet of the trailer but more than your existing cord, buy the 50-foot cord...no extension needed. Any electrician can do this.
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Old 02-18-2021, 09:55 PM   #19
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House shore power...full usage inside?

Fridge is 400w when in a cooling cycle and water heater is about 1400w when heating so you are technically fine running those at the same time on a 20A circuit assuming 110v at the trailer with just some basic lights on otherwise. You’ll be close to limit so as a precaution if it were me I’d turn off the fridge for the 20 minutes it takes to heat your water.

Furnace is about 250watts or so when running. .

FYI you can use both propane and electric combined to heat your water faster.

Make sure your water heater off when you use the microwave. No problem. Stay warm. Hope your house is ok.
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Old 02-19-2021, 05:57 AM   #20
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If you have a 30A outlet in your laundry room, I'd bet it's a 230V 30A outlet. It would be a really good idea to check it before you go plugging this and that in ....

Bob
A 30 amp dryer plug is different than a 30 amp RV plug. Where people get in trouble is when an electrician puts in a 30 amp RV plug, but wires it like a 30 amp dryer plug. (240)

---------------------------

BTW, Finding a way to dump your tanks will be a bigger problem than the 20 amp power.
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