Honda Generator Question

[linstal99]

One other very salient point to consider. The amount of load that you are “ asking “ the generator to provide is also determined by the temperature you set at the AC control. So, you may be able to get you AC to start and run if the thermostat is set at 76 but it may overload and not run if you set it to 68. Found this out trying to get EasyStarts to perform as advertised.

[uncle_bob]

Originally Posted by ONESICKPUPPY

What I’ve noticed is that running one 2200i it will be screamin but in parallel they both run at a slower pace and don’t make as much noise. I think two running much slower uses about the same as one running it’s brains out also.

Hi

Based on Honda's data and what other manufacturers come up with, running the generator at "full throttle / screaming" is more efficient fuel wise than running two of them at half speed (and getting the same output power). I'd find it hard to believe that running it that way for months on end is going to be good for it ....

Bob

[DCPAS]

Originally Posted by linstal99

One other very salient point to consider. The amount of load that you are “ asking “ the generator to provide is also determined by the temperature you set at the AC control. So, you may be able to get you AC to start and run if the thermostat is set at 76 but it may overload and not run if you set it to 68. Found this out trying to get EasyStarts to perform as advertised.

Count me confused. I thought that A/C's ran at full capacity when they run until the temperature reaches whatever is set, whether it is 76 or 72. Am I wrong?

Just as a data point, we lost power with the Hurricane yesterday. I could run my 13.5K Easy Start equipped unit with a propane powered EU2200i (not the companion model - I really really don't understand that discussion) no problem. I even ran both it and my household refrigerator (with converter off) at the same time.

[Ky76Argosy]

I know the cost of both generators is always an issue, but probably could run one AC on 2000i, but also having the companion really gives piece of mind, and takes up little room.

[DKB_SATX]

Originally Posted by linstal99

One other very salient point to consider. The amount of load that you are “ asking “ the generator to provide is also determined by the temperature you set at the AC control. So, you may be able to get you AC to start and run if the thermostat is set at 76 but it may overload and not run if you set it to 68. Found this out trying to get EasyStarts to perform as advertised.

This is inaccurate and represents a fairly common misunderstanding of how most AC systems (including our rooftop units) work. The compressor is either "on" or "off." There *IS* some measurable load difference based on fan speed, but if the outside temp is 80 degrees and you set the thermostat for fan speed X and 75 degrees, it will draw the same current as if you set fan speed X and 65 degrees.

Now, it'll run longer (or will never achieve the set temperature and thus run indefinitely, depending on conditions) but it won't require more output from the generator in one case over the other. It also won't cool any faster. My partner is one of those people who will set the AC in the house much cooler than he actually wants so "it'll cool down faster" and no amount of factual information will alter that behavior...

(For the "well actually" crowd, yes I'm aware that some modern residential AC systems are variable "speed" and will potentially behave differently if the set point is far below the actual interior temperature, but that's not germane to the question at hand.)

[SeeMore]

Originally Posted by DCPAS

I thought that A/C's ran at full capacity when they run until the temperature reaches whatever is set, whether it is 76 or 72.

I could run my 13.5K Easy Start equipped unit with a propane powered EU2200i (not the companion model - I really really don't understand that discussion) no problem.

As Bill Clinton said, it depends on what you mean when you say "run." Turning the ceiling mounted knob or setting a temp on a wall mount thermostat controls the compressor cycling which is different than fan speed. The electrical draw changes from highest (start compressor), some level in-between while cooling, to low (low speed fan only & no compressor engagement) as the "AC unit runs." The linstal99 comment regarding thermostat setting doesn't compute since it does NOT alter the compressor start load.

Engines lose power as elevation increases (-2 to -3% per thousand feet) so the max output wattage at sea level near Houston is greater than mile high Denver comparing standard conditions of temperature and pressure (STP). There is a significant performance reduction by the 5,000 ft elevation threshold and/or >100 degrees ambient temperature. Different fuels (gasoline, propane, and diesel) have different BTU content per unit of volume and generators on propane produce less horsepower than gasoline in addition to needing different carburetor jet sizes as elevation increases. Your setup will be fine if you stay near the shore and avoid really hot summer days.

The "companion" model is a second, separate generator capable of being strapped to the primary for synchronized power production to achieve greater wattage capacity and comes equipped with a 30 amp power port coupler.

[Silverminer]

Thanks. This was very helpful. What would be a typical DC device?

[uncle_bob]

Originally Posted by Silverminer

Thanks. This was very helpful. What would be a typical DC device?

Hi

..... umm .... errrr .... I'm guessing a bit here in terms of what's being asked ...

DC devices in your trailer are things that run off the battery. The lights, and the fans are good examples. They don't pull much current and can run for a long time off of a working battery setup. They do not count towards the "AC" current draw from your generator.

The DC system is recharged by solar (if you have it) or by the converter / charger. Most folks turn off the converter charger while running the A/C in difficult situations. That allows a greater percentage of the generator output to go to the A/C unit.

As you pull into a campsite, the A/C will want to run full throttle and the converter will try to do the same thing. The converter is trying to charge the batteries and it likely pulls 3 or 4 amps to do so.

Yes, you are managing loads. This is very normal in any RV. It applies to 12V as well as 120V loads. It applies on shore power as well as with a generator if you are hooked to a 30A pole. The only way to not be bothered is to get a 50A trailer (which is a 100A at 120V trailer ....) and a 12KW generator ( yes 6X the size of your Honda 2200). Then you can just turn on anything and everything ....

Bob

[DCPAS]

Originally Posted by SeeMore

The "companion" model is a second, separate generator capable of being strapped to the primary for synchronized power production to achieve greater wattage capacity and comes equipped with a 30 amp power port coupler.

Just to clarify, what I did not understand was why anybody suggested that someone needed a companion model generator with a 30 amp plug where they were going to use just one generator which has a maximum output of about 18 amps.

[DKB_SATX]

Originally Posted by DCPAS

Just to clarify, what I did not understand was why anybody suggested that someone needed a companion model generator with a 30 amp plug where they were going to use just one generator which has a maximum output of about 18 amps.

It does make some sense to have the greater contact area and load-rating of the 30A socket, though if memory serves the Honda companion has a twist-lock socket rather than a TT-30R so you still need an adapter which may increase resistance and the chance for iffy contacts. (and the chance of misplacing the adapter.)

[gypsydad]

Originally Posted by Silverminer

We're picking up our new 25' International this week and I'm having two Micro Air Easy starts installed so that I can run one AC with just one generator when boon docking.

My question is if I'm only going to use one Honda EU2200i, can I use it with a 15 to 30amp adapter or should I have purchased the EU2200i companion instead? I like the fact that the companion already has a 30 amp receptacle built in. Unfortunately the one I purchased only has 15 amp outputs.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Rob, Silverminer

I have used 30aTo. 15a conversion plug all season with no issues on my Honda 2200 Propane powered for running my 15k AC w no issues. I do not have the Companion w 30a receptical.

[DKB_SATX]

Looking at images of the EU2200i, even though they rate the conventional receptacles for 15A, they are using 20A 5-20R receptacles so that's a good thing for the max-output kind of load of running the AC on a single generator w/ an EasyStart.

[SVTRIDE]

Originally Posted by DKB_SATX

Looking at images of the EU2200i, even though they rate the conventional receptacles for 15A, they are using 20A 5-20R receptacles so that's a good thing for the max-output kind of load of running the AC on a single generator w/ an EasyStart.

And the (2) "15 amp" receptacles are protected by a 20 amp circuit protection device (circuit breaker).
In my mind, the circuit protection device sets the circuit rating. If Honda truly wanted it to be a 15 amp service, then the circuit breaker would be 15 amp.

[DKB_SATX]

The Hondas are definitely nicely overbuilt on the electrical side. A decent engineer would make that choice, 20A circuit for a generator capable of a bit more than 18A peak, even though they only claim 15A continuous.

My Briggs & Stratton pair just use 15A receptacles, but the parallel "combiner box" has both TT-30R and twist-lock receptacles so that's nice. It's always a tradeoff somewhere.

[uncle_bob]

Hi

The simple answer to the connector question is a touch test. Run it for a bit and touch it with your hand. If it's hot, it's overloaded and you need to do something else. If it's warm, that's pretty normal. If it's cool then there is no power loss going on.

Bob

[Silverminer]

Thanks. That’s good enough for me as well

[ricjones]

Great brand new generator from Honda. Not much bigger or heavier than the 2200 but puts out 3200 watts. https://powerequipment.honda.com/gen...models/eu3200i

Runs a 30 amp AS without Easystart pretty much without any compromises. We plan to upgrade from our practically new 2200.