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Old 06-18-2013, 04:55 PM   #1
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Home power hookup

Just purchased a 23fb on our way home, is there a way to power the trailer from the house on a 110 volt system? Don
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Old 06-18-2013, 05:15 PM   #2
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If you want everything to operate, including the air conditioner you can have a 30 amp 120v RV receptacle installed. If you just want to plug up to keep the batteries charged you can use an existing standard electric receptacle with an adapter. (I use an adapter at home) Do not try to run the ac using the adapter, it can damage the ac unit.
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Old 06-18-2013, 05:21 PM   #3
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Here is what you need, Outdoor Power Outlet Box on Sale - PPL Motor Homes. This will need to be wired to your home electric panel with a 30amp breaker.
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Old 06-18-2013, 05:33 PM   #4
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NOTE OF CAUTION !!!!!!!!!!!!!

If you have an electrician to wire your RV outlet................BE SURE THAT IT IS A 120 VOLT, 30 AMP SERVICE AND NOT A 30 AMP, 240 VOLT OUTLET LIKE MOST ELECTRICIANS THINK YOU NEED!!!!!!
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Old 06-19-2013, 04:44 PM   #5
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Thanks so much for your help. Don & Patti Hughes
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Old 06-19-2013, 06:31 PM   #6
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Don, Yes, there is a way.

1. Purchase a 30 amp/ 110 Volt adapter at any local box store or even Wally World. Less than $10. DON'T use the A/C!!!! Use a 12 gauge or better extension cord, (this depends on the length to the outlet, 25 ft or so) to a regular household outlet.

Sequence:
Outlet to ext cord, adapter, trailer's power cord.

Sid
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Old 06-19-2013, 07:32 PM   #7
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Don, Yes, there is a way.

1. Purchase a 30 amp/ 110 Volt adapter at any local box store or even Wally World. Less than $10. DON'T use the A/C!!!! Use a 12 gauge or better extension cord, (this depends on the length to the outlet, 25 ft or so) to a regular household outlet.

Sequence:
Outlet to ext cord, adapter, trailer's power cord.

Sid
If you intend to use a 30 amp outlet, 12AWG will not carry the current, especially at a length of 25'. I would use a minimum of 10/3 AWG for 30 amps.
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Old 06-19-2013, 07:37 PM   #8
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15-to-30 amp adapter

Here's the adapter you need to adapt the household plug to accommodate the 30-am male end of your shore power cord.. as mentioned abive don't run the AC or the microwave (if you have one).
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Old 06-19-2013, 07:44 PM   #9
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I had a 30 amp 120 volt outlet installed in my garage by a certified electrician. It cost quite a bit but is well worth it. I did give the electrician all the warnings about the 120 volt supply against the 240 volt version but he'd already brought an outlet marked "For RV Use" so he knew what he was doing.
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Old 06-19-2013, 07:57 PM   #10
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Yes, thanks Lewster, I see my error. 12 gauge is WAY too much for 30 amp.

I meant 12 gauge for plugging in the 30 amp power cord to use for lights and fantastic fans and maybe Tele or make a pot of coffee. Surely not to maintain a 30 amp draw.

Thanks for correcting my confusion.
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Old 06-19-2013, 08:47 PM   #11
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Quote:
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If you intend to use a 30 amp outlet, 12AWG will not carry the current, especially at a length of 25'. I would use a minimum of 10/3 AWG for 30 amps.
Please correct me if I am wrong. If you are just plugged in and only charging batteries and maybe running a fridge on 110V, surely a 12-2 w/ground extension would carry that minimal load. Can't be more than 10 amps or so could it?
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Old 06-19-2013, 09:12 PM   #12
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I ran SOME my 34' on the 110v 15Amp circuit using a 50' 12-3 extension cord.

Here is the list:
- inside lights
- water pump
- Fantastic Fan

When I added additional load of Bathroom Fan and Forward Fan, the Converter started to hum pretty well... but never popped the circuit breaker.

I could NOT run the Micro or Convection oven...and definitely NOT the AC or AC Fan.. I did not use the FRIDGE at all.
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Old 06-19-2013, 09:20 PM   #13
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You can purchase an adapter which has 30 amp female on one side and two (2) 20 amp males on the other side. The two males give more surface contact thereby minimizing volt/amp loss at the connector and resultant heat build up at the connector when maxing the current flow if using the air conditioner. The connectors are the "chokes" in the circuitry, so the more physical surface area contact they have the less the "choke". The longer the distance of the cable run the larger the cable gauge will have to be for adequate current flow.

As an example, I have my 2002 ASCL 31' connected to a 20 amp receptacle that is ~3' from the house circuit breaker box. I happened to have laying around the house 150' X 2 of #2 gauge copper cable (~diameter of little finger) which I use to run from the house receptacle to the ASCL. At no load the voltage at the ASCL is ~121 volts. With air conditioner, and converter running (drawing ~15+ amps) my voltage drops to ~116 volts. The adapter connector does not get warm, and as long as the air conditioner has at least 110 volts it is happy.

So an air conditioner, and converter can be run indefinitely on a household 20 amp circuit without harm.
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Old 06-19-2013, 11:11 PM   #14
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You can purchase an adapter which has 30 amp female on one side and two voltage drops to ~116 volts. The adapter connector does not get warm, and as long as the air conditioner has at least 110 volts it is happy.

So an air conditioner, and converter can be run indefinitely on a household 20 amp circuit without harm.
I hope you are running the two off the same phase...
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Old 06-19-2013, 11:25 PM   #15
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I hope you are running the two off the same phase...
You can buy the adapter at any RV supply; been using it for years; must be OK.
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Old 06-20-2013, 05:22 AM   #16
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I could NOT run the Micro or Convection oven...and definitely NOT the AC or AC Fan.. I did not use the FRIDGE at all.
The fridge is about 3 amps max, so it's fine on this cord. We do it all the time, almost literally - we usually start our fridge before the first trip of the year (March-ish), then don't shut it down until after our Christmas trip.

Generally the only things I don't use when we're plugged in that way are the A/C and microwave. Otherwise I don't worry about it.

A general note: the converter can also draw some decent power if your batteries are depleted. Our 60 amp converter could draw 6 amps at 120 volts, or more if that 60 amp figure doesn't take into account the losses in the conversion. Normally it doesn't draw anywhere near that much, but it's worth mentioning as a potential high-draw appliance since we're talking about that and no one has mentioned it. (It's easy to forget about it.)
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Old 06-20-2013, 05:40 AM   #17
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The Airstream website has a document that lists amperage of all of the common loads. Normal 15/20 amp service is good for anything except the AC and microwave, although the microwave by itself is fine. Never the AC, it might run but the voltage drop would force the AC to draw damaging current. If you want to run everything you need to install a true 30 amp connection through your home breaker box.
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Old 06-22-2013, 05:59 PM   #18
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After I ordered my Airstream I began the process of preparing its "home" (which is now a really beautiful shed that was custom built for it). I installed a connection for my sewer, put a 4x4 post in concrete and mounted a water spigot so I'd have running water when needed, then ran a 30 amp line so I could have full electric out there and use my trailer as a guest house. I bought the outlet at Loew's and I've also seen them at Camping World. I will admit that is was quite a job running that line from my breaker box, but if I do something I like to do it right. (And I didn't have to worry about some yahoo putting in a 220 outlet when I needed 110, either!)
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Old 06-22-2013, 06:34 PM   #19
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oh thanks so much, once again I've fallen into a thread of much needed info! this forum is great
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Old 06-22-2013, 08:38 PM   #20
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Excellent! Getting our first AS this year and this has answered a future question
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