HELP!Need info tonight.

[59toaster]

I am acually pulling wire and getting ready to assemble stuff again.

I need to pick up some stuff but I need some sizes.

I want to prewire for a Winguard and run a coax from one end to where I will hook up if I go to a place that has cable available. What size coax and power requirments will the Winguard need? I am just going to leave a pig tail in a handly locatin in the exterior gear locker for the Cable.

I am prewiring for a A/C as well. What size hose do I need for the drain line?

I am pulling new power for the A/C and all outlest. I will just leave the lighting on the existing wires. Already prewiring for a CD player and speakers.

Running power for my 12v and a Intelapower.

ANything else I am forgetting before I put the ceiling back up and put in the lower walls?

Thanks

[Over59]

Are you using Marine grade or other stranded wire or solid?
I think there are only two sizes coax, 5 and 6. 6 is better and will work with that DirecTV setup you'll get someday.
http://www.wildtracks.cihost.com/hom...html#wire_coax

[markdoane]

Eric the plumber,

The drain hose for the Penguin is 1/2" ID. TThat's the size of the hose barb on the drain tray.

Do you plan to add a greywater tank? Think about putting in a tank vent, 1.25".

[Jim & Susan]

Toaster, I can help with a couple of these. CATV used to be RG-6. I think they are now useing RG-59. The guys at Radio Shack/HD/Lowes can give you the skinny. If all else fails, look at the stuff on the side of your house. There are a couple of threads on this subject I've read here, one of them had a cool connection "box" that you can mount on the outer skin on the TT so that you don't have a pig tail flopping around.

I think the a/c drain is a 3/4 inch. I can measure, but it's gonna be a few hours before I can get to it.

Just curious, what are you using to hold the wire in place against the skin of the camper? I'm looking for a suitable replacement for those grey "keepers" they used way back when.

Jim

[Over59]

Originally Posted by Jim & Susan

Toaster, I can help with a couple of these. CATV used to be RG-6. I think they are now useing RG-59. The guys at Radio Shack/HD/Lowes can give you the skinny. If all else fails, look at the stuff on the side of your house. There are a couple of threads on this subject I've read here, one of them had a cool connection "box" that you can mount on the outer skin on the TT so that you don't have a pig tail flopping around.

I think the a/c drain is a 3/4 inch. I can measure, but it's gonna be a few hours before I can get to it.

Just curious, what are you using to hold the wire in place against the skin of the camper? I'm looking for a suitable replacement for those grey "keepers" they used way back when.

Jim

RG-6 if the better cable and the only one to be used with a digital signal.
http://www.wildtracks.cihost.com/hom...html#wire_coax

[markdoane]

Originally Posted by Jim & Susan

Just curious, what are you using to hold the wire in place against the skin of the camper? I'm looking for a suitable replacement for those grey "keepers" they used way back when.

Jim

Jim,

This is the method they used in 1959.

[Chuck]

Originally Posted by Jim & Susan

Toaster, I can help with a couple of these. CATV used to be RG-6. I think they are now useing RG-59.
Jim

other way around.

RG-6 is thicker than RG-59, so the connectors are different. but they fit the same "F" connectors on the back of your tv...the other ends that fit on the cables are bigger.

the satelite stuff requires the rg-6. I also found that running digital cable at my house, it didn't like the rg-59. switch the cable to rg-6, and the problem was solved.

fwiw: I just bought a winegard antenna, and it came w/ a length of rg59. which is fine for tv signal to an antenna.

[87MH]

If even the most remote possibility of a media center has crossed your mind, throw in a couple of sets of Monster Cable speaker wire - how about an internet connection?

I know that the coming thing seems to be Wi-Fi, but an extra cable and phone connection will not add any weight -

Might as well..........put it ALL in while it's open.

.....on the AC drain line - slightly bigger is better - IF a critter (or other nasty) gets caught in the line perhaps a larger ID will permit a "snake" to be run up the hose in order to dislodge the obstruction.


Luck.

[Jim & Susan]

Originally Posted by markdoane

Jim,

This is the method they used in 1959.

...Looks like some of the work I did on my first car as a teenager!

[markdoane]

Originally Posted by Jim & Susan

...Looks like some of the work I did on my first car as a teenager!

Did you work at jackson Center?

[Jim & Susan]

Originally Posted by markdoane

Did you work at jackson Center?

No, at least not that I remeber! I was referring to these things used on the '70's trailers used to hold the wire/wire bundles in place agianst the interior side of the outer skins.

[markdoane]

Jim,

Those are called Cling-ons.

[FrenchBern]

If my memory is still working, Rg 6 and Rg56 are 50 ohms cable used for radio communication with the Rg6 being heavier gage for lower losses while transmitting high power. Not much difference can be noticed while receiving a signal unless the length is very long. Rg 9 and Rg 59 are 75 ohms impedance cable used for tv signals such as cable, dish, etc. Impedance is very important for lower losses so don't use the wrong one. That was a penny's worth.

[Jim & Susan]

Alright, I went out and measured the A/C drain line. It's 1/2 inch inner diameter. Let me know if you need pictures. This is for the original Armstrong A/C that came with it. Take care, Jim.

[59toaster]

Originally Posted by Jim & Susan

...Looks like some of the work I did on my first car as a teenager!

Quality huh? LOL. Yep just tape. I am running most of my wires through the roof like the factory. The only point to those clips and the tape used on mine is to hold the wires up durring assembly. Once the walls are in the insulation keeps the wires where then need to be.


I am running a Spare 10 gage from front to rear in case anything 12v ends up in the far end. Running 10 gage to the Area where the reefer and Stereo will be. Wanted the capacity in case we go with a 3 way Reefer. 10 gage to under the galley for heater if we put one back in. 12 gage to add a 12v light in the wet bath for boon docking There was only a 110v lite factory and this was self contained model. Guess you take a lantern with ya if ya need the crapper in the dark.

I also took a good look at the running light wires. MAN are they scrawny! It looks like 22 gage. I would like 14-16 gage. So tomorrow I need to find some better quality wire for that from the local trailer supply place up the road. Run it all the way to the back and parallel it with the existing and hope for the best with the side markers.

Internet We plan on going with Cingular Edge for the most part. If the need arises for a hard line the way the coach is laid out I can run from the storage compartment all the way to about 18 inches from the dinning table where we would use a lap top pretty easy.

Speaker wire. I already have 14 gage to go to where I plan to put the speakers in. The head unit will be nearly directly above the outside reefer access door (right next to the door for the coach). I could drop a set of outputs for a couple outdoor speakers easy enough in the future if needed. No plan on big power. Just the same Sony with wireless remote I have in my 4Runner Couple 6x9's or 8 inch somewhere around the gaucho and a couple 4 inch firing at the Gaucho from the side of the Galley and Reefer cabinets.

I am kind of torn about the whole TV deal. When I was a kid no TV at all. Just a old Pannasonic radio was our electronic entertainment. I do like catching the news mostly for Weather stuff is my only personal interest. I REALLY don't want the kid camped out in front of the TV instead of getting out and enjoying the outdoors or a good book. I think I will concede to it and if I have an issue I can always smash the thing.

I think I will swing by 3Way camper tomorrow and price out the antennas. Right now is the time to mount it if I am going to.

[Tinsel Loaf]

Put in some conduit from front to back with junction boxes at strategic locations. Use for future use like fiber optic cable or other wire that you whish ya should've put in.

[59toaster]

Opps! Meant to explain the pictures.

The first on is the front inner cap (blue YUCK!) and I have been having good luck drilling a hole and putting in those plastic chassis grommets and fishing up through the wall. The yellow wires are for the front 110 and the power to where the Intella charger will be. The red 10 gage is the AUX I ran front to rear for any future needs.

The 12/2 is over kill for anything but A/C but it was cheaper to just buy a big roll so all of the new wires will be 12/2

The second picture is the rear. The Bed goes in the corner and the original Fuse box was mounted under the window. The wires are the other end of the first picture plus the A/C prewire. 2 more circuits and the 110 will be done other then the box feed.

I will be putting in my new modern Fuse box in the same place. Already picked it up and a bargain of $15. It uses the thin breakers and has potential for 12 circuits. I will be using 8 at this point. Yeah its overkill but I want to keep all the stuff separate so if something eats it I only loose it and not the whole coach. I'm into over kill. Guess that why I had a K5 blazer beast truck that weighed 6640lb with all the armor. It smushes cars REAL good. Got to watch out you don't get a flat from the stick shift though. The shift knows break right off and leave the spike sticking right through the roof!

Here is the circuit plan.

1. A/C prewire
2. all over head lighting (original single circuit the coach had with all outlets capped off)
3. Gaucho 110
4. Curbside 110 including Reefer
5. Galley 110
6. Water heater
7. 110v outlet under bed for storage compartment outlet and utility light.
8. Intella charger 110 feed.


The 12v will be under the gaucho. Similar overkill Circuit lay out will be
1. AUX expansion 10 gage to rear
2. Curbside 10gage to support 3way reefer and Stereo
3. Galley 10 gage for forced air heat if we add it back and 12v aux plug.
4. Grover air pump or water pump. Use existing switch on wall behind Gaucho
5. Charge wire from umbilical
6. Aux power outlet for Gaucho
7. Wet bath lighting.

May fuse all the running light circuits and brakes independently so if something shorts out we wont loose it all and hopefully prevent blowing fuses in the tow vehicle. Also want to install a switch to turn on the running lights when off the T/V for effect lighting.