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Old 01-12-2012, 12:05 PM   #1
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Half of the outlets have no power

This is weird.
While testing the outlets we found that half (the front) has 110V on every outlet but from the middle to the back nothing.
Replaced every braker and we still have:
Power to the Univolt (unit removed because is dead)
Power to the front
Power to the AC.
No power on the rest of the trailer.

How should we troubleshoot this?
Thanks
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Old 01-12-2012, 12:25 PM   #2
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Start by pulling the outlets out (with the power OFF) and check the connections.
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Old 01-12-2012, 12:29 PM   #3
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still nothing

Hi Skater.
Thanks for the fast response.
Done that and still nothing going to the outlets.
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Old 01-12-2012, 01:36 PM   #4
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I would check the outlets again. The outlets are daisy chained. I found that this was a problem on my 73 Safari
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Old 01-12-2012, 01:54 PM   #5
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I would look for a wire that has been disconnected. It may not even be in the load center. Check to see how many Romex cables come into the load center then make sure that all three wires in each cable are connected. Also look outside the load center for a Romex cable hanging lose.
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Old 01-12-2012, 02:15 PM   #6
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First check the breaker, they do go bad. Then if it is ok clip a long jumper to both the black wire (in the breaker) and then white wire ( attached to the ground buss) and use your volt meter or even a self powered test light to check for continuity from the wires in the first outlet. Check both black and then the white. If you have continuity at the first box work your way down and check the next one. You should get a beep or a light. I am assuming you know which breaker controls the dead outlets. Make sure there is not a GFI outlet in that circuit, if so they go bad. If the outage is on the curb side be sure and check the outside outlet. Many times they will corrode due to years of water getting in and if it is first outlet on the run it could be the problem. A bad outside outlet was in my 68 was the cause when I had a similar 120v issue.
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Old 01-13-2012, 07:05 AM   #7
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WOW... I feel honored but this thread! all replies from Rivet Masters!!!
Love this forum and the members just always ready to share their knowledge.

arodriguez60. I would check the outlets again. The outlets are daisy chained. I found that this was a problem on my '73 Safari

There is no power going to the outlets at all.

TG Twinkie
I would look for a wire that has been disconnected. It may not even be in the load center. Check to see how many Romex cables come into the load center then make sure that all three wires in each cable are connected. Also look outside the load center for a Romex cable hanging lose.

Double checked the load center and everything seems fine. Even changed the order of the brakers and everything seems functional. But no power at the end of the wires to the outlets.

68 TWIND
First check the breaker, they do go bad. Then if it is ok clip a long jumper to both the black wire (in the breaker) and then white wire ( attached to the ground buss) and use your volt meter or even a self powered test light to check for continuity from the wires in the first outlet. Check both black and then the white. If you have continuity at the first box work your way down and check the next one. You should get a beep or a light. I am assuming you know which breaker controls the dead outlets. Make sure there is not a GFI outlet in that circuit, if so they go bad. If the outage is on the curb side be sure and check the outside outlet. Many times they will corrode due to years of water getting in and if it is first outlet on the run it could be the problem. A bad outside outlet was in my 68 was the cause when I had a similar 120v issue.


Replaced all the breakers just in case. Unfortunately I don't know which breaker controls which outlets and it will be nice to know in case u have it handy.
Only one that I was able to identify was the one for the univolt.
Did not find any outlets with GFI neither on the '72 nor the '73 so is that an owner's upgrade decission?
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Old 01-13-2012, 08:04 AM   #8
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Load center pic

Only pic that i have while chancing the brakers.
Hope it helps on anything.
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Old 01-13-2012, 06:57 PM   #9
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I don't know if this really applies to your age rig, but in ours, all the outlets on the sink and vanity side of the rig (that means about half the outlets) together with the outside outlet are on the same GFI system. However, you can't reset the GFI at the individual outlets. We have go to the fuse/breaker panel, turn the breaker off, then back on, and there's a GFI reset button there, too. Just thought I'd mention it.
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Old 01-14-2012, 05:47 AM   #10
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Veggie,

First check the outside box have not done that yet, many folks have found the fix to a bad circuit in the outside box. Make sure it is not wet or corroded. There should be a wiring diagram at the AS web site in the owners manual for that year, you can check. They have an archive section. That said, using a jumper wire very quick and will tell you what you actually have rather than what you are supposed to have as far as how it is wired. Get a piece of light gauge (18) that is long enough to reach from the breaker box to every outlet in the trailer (say 25 ft or so) and attach an alligator clips on both ends. Inside the breaker box attach one clip to a lead that screws into the breaker (a hot wire). Take the other end into the trailer and clip it to one lead of your test light or volt meter (set it to the tone setting so it will beep when the probes touch). Now all you have to do is insert the other probe into the sockets one at a time till you hear a beep or see a light. Then you will know which wire in the breaker box goes to that outlet. Then so on down the line. To it for the hot wires and then go back and do it for the white (neutral wires) to make sure both are making it to the box. Take a piece of paper and make a diagram, also number the wires in the box so you won't get them mixed up. When finished you will have a complete picture of which circuit controls which outlet. There will be one circuit that you won't find a beep for and that will the the line to the AC. All the others should be easy to map out. If you find an outlet that does not beep when attached to any of the wires in the breaker box you will have found the probable cause of the problem.
Hope this helps.
This is exactly how I figured out the wiring in my Trade Wind.
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Old 01-14-2012, 07:10 AM   #11
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TBRich
Not really sure if there is a GFCI in the trailer since i couldn't found one anywhere including at the main braker box.

68 TWIND
The outside box is fine.
Can I just bypass the outside outlets so see if that was the issue or they need to replaced?
Will check on the AS's site for the manual. didn't even think about that
Will return to the project on monday
thanks again guys
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Old 01-14-2012, 07:38 AM   #12
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In the first description you mention that the Univolt was removed because it was dead. Did all the outlets work before the Univolt was removed? Did you replace theUnivolt with a converter? Did you replace the Univolt with a battery charger? Anyone of those items could be a beginning for your search. I also like the idea of a popped GFCI. Look again there.
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Old 01-14-2012, 08:08 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Melody Ranch View Post
In the first description you mention that the Univolt was removed because it was dead. Did all the outlets work before the Univolt was removed? Did you replace theUnivolt with a converter? Did you replace the Univolt with a battery charger? Anyone of those items could be a beginning for your search. I also like the idea of a popped GFCI. Look again there.
Hi Melody Ranch
the test of the outlets was performed before the test and removed of the Univolt was removed.
The univolt has a separate braker on this unit so I was assuming that this will not affect the issue.
I will love for this to be a GFCI somewhere but I can't find one anywhere in that trailer. Nothing on any outlet or at the main box nor close to it.
Any suggestions about where it can be?
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Old 01-14-2012, 09:59 AM   #14
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Your Univolt probaly pluged into an outlet under the sink or such. Reconnect the Univolt wire to the ckt bkr and check.
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Old 01-14-2012, 10:06 AM   #15
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The button on the GFI breaker is not a reset, it is a test button. If the breaker is tripped you must switch it to the off position and then back to on. If you push the button on the front it will trip again and you will be right back where you started.
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Old 01-14-2012, 10:41 AM   #16
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Quote:
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Your Univolt probaly pluged into an outlet under the sink or such. Reconnect the Univolt wire to the ckt bkr and check.
Hi jkcru
According to what we saw in other threads yes.
But this one it was hard-wired to the main box with 1 individual braker for it.
Does it sounds right?
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Old 01-14-2012, 10:45 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TG Twinkie View Post
The button on the GFI breaker is not a reset, it is a test button. If the breaker is tripped you must switch it to the off position and then back to on. If you push the button on the front it will trip again and you will be right back where you started.
Hi TG
Nothing like that on this trailer.
just simple brakers
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Old 01-15-2012, 09:05 AM   #18
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just thinking about it...
The 1972 has only 2 brakers but the 1973 has 4? a main and then 3 for the distribution
here are some pics
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Old 01-20-2012, 08:28 PM   #19
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Just as an update.
got back to work at the trailer today.
No power at the outside outlets and I still can figure this out.
does anyone has like a "3D" of where the wires are running between the panels?
At this point I'm ready to rewire the whole trailer but I never totally gutted one to the point that you are able to see the wiring.
So if someone has a "3D" vision for the 120V and for the 12V that will be sweet!
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Old 01-21-2012, 07:59 PM   #20
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Problem Solved

Thanks to everybody's time.
Since nothing was making sense we just decided to bypass one outside outlet at the time and guess what
Problem solved
Thanks again guys for all the help.
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