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Old 05-12-2014, 11:24 AM   #1
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Generator for New Two A/C Units

I will be taking delivery of a new Serenity 30RB in a few weeks, and it will have the 50 Amp service with two roof A/C units. My question is in regards to what generator/s might be recommended for the new trailers with 50 Amp service. I have thought that running only one A/C might work with twin Honda 2000 watt generators, but for both A/C units I am thinking it would require at least two 3000 watt gens.

What do others think and is there anyone with experience in this arena?
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Old 05-12-2014, 10:33 PM   #2
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You'll be looking for a large generator that will be mounted in the TV. Too heavy to remove and set down on the ground. Not exactly a small portable unit. The twin Hondas you refer to are for running 1 AC unit. My MH has a 6500 watts Onan generator permanently mounted. It weighs 230 lbs. This is the kind of power you'll need to run 2 AC's off of a generator. I don't think the Honda 3ooo watt units can be run in tandem.
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Old 05-13-2014, 12:44 AM   #3
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You will need Honda 6500--one AC draws 2800 watts, so do the math, cost is $3,900---several other cheaper units, but not as quiet or dependable. If it rides in the puck up, venting of exhaust fumes can be an issues, especially if you have an enclosed camper on TV. I just went thru this with my 30 ft, purchased two Hondas , weighed my options, thought I would see if there was a need to run both AC's, if so I would plan in shore power thus first year, if so, sell the Hondas in the fall, gear up for next year. Just my situation, your needs may differ of course. Best of luck.
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Old 05-13-2014, 02:21 AM   #4
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Due to the blower noise of the roof mounted air conditioner units, some folks will run the unit at the opposite end of the trailer from where they are sitting and use a small Fantastic fan or equivalent to move the cold air to the other end of the coach. I doubt even a 6500 watt generator could support both AC units if they came on at the same time as the in-rush current draw would overload the capacity rating of the 30 amp twist lock plug circuit breaker used on most small generator sets.

The trailer 50 amp power cord with a Twist-Lok adapter will plug into only the Honda EB10000 (10,000 watt unit at $5,399.95 plus tax and shipping at 403 pounds). None of the smaller units have a 50 amp 125/250V power receptacle. Thus you would need to use a power cord 50 amp to 30, amp pigtail converter to plug into the smaller 30 amp power outlets available on the smaller generator sets which defeats the purpose as the 30 amp breaker would pop when the second AC attempted to come if there were any other major loads on line.

Our Magnum MS-2812 is capable of starting and running the rear air conditioner off battery power, but that cooling would probably last under two hours before the batteries were fully discharged.
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Old 05-13-2014, 05:04 AM   #5
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I did some digging, and found this thing from Home Depot.
Champion Power Equipment, 7,500/9,500-Watt Electric Start Gasoline Powered Portable Generator with 50-Amp and RV Outlet CARB, 41534 at The Home Depot - Tablet

It isn't quiet, so you will not be popular with your neighbors, but it has wheels, so you can possibly cobble together a ramp to get it out of your truck, and a built in 50 amp plug.
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Old 05-13-2014, 05:58 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Msmoto View Post
I will be taking delivery of a new Serenity 30RB in a few weeks, and it will have the 50 Amp service with two roof A/C units. My question is in regards to what generator/s might be recommended for the new trailers with 50 Amp service. I have thought that running only one A/C might work with twin Honda 2000 watt generators, but for both A/C units I am thinking it would require at least two 3000 watt gens.

What do others think and is there anyone with experience in this arena?
You could make an adapter to go from your 50amp plug to 2 eu3000 Honda's without using a parallel kit.
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Old 05-13-2014, 10:42 AM   #7
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I've chatted with our resident electrical guy, and he says this is what is needed(two Honda 3000is generators not included):
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Old 05-13-2014, 01:36 PM   #8
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If the two 3000 watt generators are not synched (the feature of the matched set of two 2,000 watt generators by Honda), the out of phase power will create some interesting power fluctuations inside the trailer. Keep a spare electrical rated fire extinguisher available.
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Old 05-13-2014, 01:42 PM   #9
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Here's an AC question that I don't think I have seen an answer to. If you were to start the AC with your Magnum/Solar Battery setup would a single Honda 2000 keep it running? The load is always very high on startup. Don't remember what the power requirements are once it is going.
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Old 05-13-2014, 02:08 PM   #10
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Two 3000 honda can be run in parallel with a kit from honda. Honda has the kit. Jim
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Old 05-13-2014, 04:41 PM   #11
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Two 3000 honda can be run in parallel with a kit from honda. Honda has the kit. Jim
It wont be needed here Jim.
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Old 05-13-2014, 04:44 PM   #12
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It wont be needed here Jim.
Exactly. Each generator will run a "branch", and ne'er the branches shall meet. It's not like the trailer is 120v only, there are two separate legs,and each leg can be run with a single generator.
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Old 05-14-2014, 06:36 AM   #13
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I was responding to the comment that the 3000 could not be paralleled. They can. Jim
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Old 05-15-2014, 01:40 AM   #14
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Both of the Honda 3,000 watt units specify handling up to a 13,500 BTU air conditioner but not another large power hog like the water heater and or refrigerator.

Paralleling the Honda EU3000iS allows two legs with a rated capacity of 23.3 amps with a maximum capacity of 25 amps for inrush. Rated computer safe power. Weighs 134 pounds. List price $2,329.95 for one generator only.

Paralleling the Honda EU3000i allows two legs with a rated capacity of 21.7 amps with a maximum capacity of 25 amps for inrush. Not rated computer safe power. Weighs 78 pounds. List price $2,599.95 for one generator only.

One would need to carefully inspect their 50 amp circuit breaker box to see which loads the factory put on each leg. If an air conditioner were on each leg, very careful power management would allow the lighting and low power devices to operate with both air conditioners.

The Honda EU6500iS has a single 120/240 outlet (both legs) with a rated capacity of 22.9 amps and a maximum capacity of 27.1 amps for inrush. Rated computer safe power. Weighs 260 pounds. List price $4,499.95 for generator only.

This larger EU6500iS unit weighs about the same as two 3000iS units and is less expensive to acquire than the two smaller units.

Even with the larger unit, the user has to do power management.
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Old 05-15-2014, 05:48 AM   #15
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Two A/C 's

We are brand new to camping and Airstreams. On a whim, we purchased a loaded EB from Sutton as a year end close out. We were excited about the two A/C heat pump units for our hot Texas summers, but want to do mostly boon docking. So we have the same questions about generator sets.

I purchased two Yamaha clones from costco at $600 each. They are now parallel capable but you have to purchase the $75 cable directly from the company. I was planning on using this system to run 1 A/C only while we dry camp and would run the second A/C only when tied into shore power. I am not really sure how to shut down the second a/c using the fairly complicated thermostat.

If this works I was going to replace the two generators with tri fuel Yamaha's that we could tote in the back of the Jeep without having to deal with gasoline issues.

This seems to be a more reasonable alternative and gives us more flexibility to use the Jeep as our TV compared to leaving a 6500kw unit in the back of the truck.
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Old 05-15-2014, 06:37 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TXargentum View Post
We are brand new to camping and Airstreams. On a whim, we purchased a loaded EB from Sutton as a year end close out. We were excited about the two A/C heat pump units for our hot Texas summers, but want to do mostly boon docking. So we have the same questions about generator sets.

I purchased two Yamaha clones from costco at $600 each. They are now parallel capable but you have to purchase the $75 cable directly from the company. I was planning on using this system to run 1 A/C only while we dry camp and would run the second A/C only when tied into shore power. I am not really sure how to shut down the second a/c using the fairly complicated thermostat.

If this works I was going to replace the two generators with tri fuel Yamaha's that we could tote in the back of the Jeep without having to deal with gasoline issues.

This seems to be a more reasonable alternative and gives us more flexibility to use the Jeep as our TV compared to leaving a 6500kw unit in the back of the truck.
In our trailer you use the "zone" function. Zone 1 is the front, and zone 2 is the rear.
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Old 05-15-2014, 07:08 AM   #17
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In answer to the earlier question regarding the running of a generator in an enclosed pick up bed here is a solution. I run mine and have had a plumbing union welded to the exhaust pipe at the manifold. From there I have stainless flexible hose to extend the exhaust to the rear and outward. Being careful to route the hose I can run the generator inside the truck with exhaust outward. Keeps the noise reasonable and stays in the truck. Works great the few times I have needed to use it.

That's my story and I'm stickin to it.
See ya'll on the road sometime.
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Old 05-19-2014, 06:39 AM   #18
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Do both A/C compressors start independently or at the same time?

In my recent tour in a motorhome with three A/C units each one would start about 30 seconds apart, I suspect to avoid the large load if they all started at one time. Does the two A/C set up on the Airstreams work the same way, i.e., a delayed starting procedure controlled by the thermostat software?
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Old 06-13-2014, 01:50 AM   #19
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Generator for New Two A/C Units

My decision for a generator was a 4000 watt unit which can run a continuos 3100 watts output. I found one with electric start at Northern Tool and because it will be in my pickup bed, I will be able to reduce some noise by creating a sound proofed cover allowing full airflow yet decreasing noise probably 3 - 6 db.

This will allow one A/C when boondocking yet be reasonably economical overall. From my motorhome experience I know one can eat huge amounts of fuel if one insists on fully air conditioning a coach with generator power.
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Old 06-13-2014, 10:08 PM   #20
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If you are planning to fire up a contractor-grade generator in a National Park or National Forest campground, I hope you can do better than "reduce some noise" or you will be visited by a grumpy ranger or, worse, grumpy neighbors. Nothing like the bark of an iron Briggs and Stratton to rile the neighbors...

Mike
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