Gel Batteries are Discharging too Quickly.

[ROBERT CROSS]

...learned that my skepticism was warranted, had two fail in the boat, one under warranty and one on my dime.👎

Not a good C/S experience either...🤬

Bob
🇺🇸

[ranchometal]

Related question: I have two 6v Lifeline GPL-6CT AGMs from an older trailer that had a Magnum inverter/charger, which I trusted. I've sold that trailer and have a 2018 FC 25RBQ. I've replaced the stock batteries with my two older GPL-6CTs and am planning on upgrading the charger soon, but waiting. Question: Does anyone know if the stock AS charger going to do any irreversible damage to my GPL-6CTs while I'm waiting to install a better charger? I.e., should I rush out and get a new charger to avoid damaging the costly AGMs?

[planosteve]

Originally Posted by 68 Overlander

Hi Steve,
That would be unusual and I would be interested in some examples. I know I don't like Optima batteries specifically because of the low AH ratings and wasted real estate with the spiral design. Not that they are bad batteries, I'm just after amp hours and warranty. So far Fullriver leads the pack IMO. Lifeline and Crown a close second.
Gels are so finicky I wouldn't even consider them for RV or marine use though some do use them with success. Flooded, AGM, or LiFePO4 is the answer.

Yes, I understand. Mine are Optimas, bought at Sam's Club for a good price, but didn't bother to check the AHs. Now paying the price! Just using them as backups. The OE Interstate flooded cell is doing quite well, as long as I don't leave it connected between trips.

[68 Overlander]

Originally Posted by ranchometal

Related question: I have two 6v Lifeline GPL-6CT AGMs from an older trailer that had a Magnum inverter/charger, which I trusted. I've sold that trailer and have a 2018 FC 25RBQ. I've replaced the stock batteries with my two older GPL-6CTs and am planning on upgrading the charger soon, but waiting. Question: Does anyone know if the stock AS charger going to do any irreversible damage to my GPL-6CTs while I'm waiting to install a better charger? I.e., should I rush out and get a new charger to avoid damaging the costly AGMs?

We have been very familiar with the WFCO converter since they came out in 2004. Airstream started using them instead of the Parallax in 2018 so that is likely what you have. Either the 8955 PEC (30 amp service) or the 9855 deck mount (50 amp service) The overwhelming majority of complaints about them over the years has been their inability to cycle into the boost mode unless the battery voltage is very low. Even below 11.9 and they often still will not change modes. We (and many others) have had to "trick" them to enter the boost mode by using an inverter and large DC load to drop the voltage far below 12 volts and then quickly remove the load. Then about half the time it will enter boost and half the time will not. That higher bulk/boost voltage is necessary to completely charge flooded and AGM batteries. It doesn't have to be every cycle, but periodically it does need to see that higher 14.4 voltage for a few hours.
The other issues have been flickering and dimming lights.

[ranchometal]

Originally Posted by 68 Overlander

We have been very familiar with the WFCO converter since they came out in 2004. Airstream started using them instead of the Parallax in 2018 so that is likely what you have. Either the 8955 PEC (30 amp service) or the 9855 deck mount (50 amp service) The overwhelming majority of complaints about them over the years has been their inability to cycle into the boost mode unless the battery voltage is very low. Even below 11.9 and they often still will not change modes. We (and many others) have had to "trick" them to enter the boost mode by using an inverter and large DC load to drop the voltage far below 12 volts and then quickly remove the load. Then about half the time it will enter boost and half the time will not. That higher bulk/boost voltage is necessary to completely charge flooded and AGM batteries. It doesn't have to be every cycle, but periodically it does need to see that higher 14.4 voltage for a few hours.
The other issues have been flickering and dimming lights.

Thanks for this info. Would you recommend I use a 'battery tender' between outings, i.e., during storage? If so, does turning the Store switch to off, completely isolate the battery (except, of course, the propane and electric jack)? I'm thinking I can connect the tender via the factory Zamp solar connection, which is simply a direct wiring to the batteries.

It's tempting to just get another Magnum charger/inverter again and do this right. Leaving it as is, with the stock converter, I may anger the battery goddess and she'll kill my AGMs costing me almost half as as much as the Magnum.

Oh, what wicked webs we weaver when first we begin to upgrade.

[uncle_bob]

Originally Posted by Silvr_Bullet

Here’s some information AGM vs. Gel , believe it or not!
https://northeastbattery.com/agm-vs-gel-technology/

Hi

The issue there is that they are comparing AGM (which are used in RV's) to GEL (which are never used in RV's). They don't make a comparison to flooded cells (which are used in RV's) since they are looking at "spill proof" batteries.

Bob

[uncle_bob]

Originally Posted by ranchometal

Thanks for this info. Would you recommend I use a 'battery tender' between outings, i.e., during storage? If so, does turning the Store switch to off, completely isolate the battery (except, of course, the propane and electric jack)? I'm thinking I can connect the tender via the factory Zamp solar connection, which is simply a direct wiring to the batteries.

It's tempting to just get another Magnum charger/inverter again and do this right. Leaving it as is, with the stock converter, I may anger the battery goddess and she'll kill my AGMs costing me almost half as as much as the Magnum.

Oh, what wicked webs we weaver when first we begin to upgrade.

Hi

If you are going with another hybrid inverter / charger, do it right and get a Victron. If you ever go with lithium's they are fully programable. They also are very reliable. No idea if Randy sells them (yet).

Bob

[68 Overlander]

If it were mine, I would change out the lower converter section with the Progressive Dynamics 4655L Wildkat. It is made specifically for that 8955 (presuming you have 30 amp service) and will charge and maintain those lifelines as good as anything. 11 years on mine so far with A PD converter. The new L model even has a Lithium jumper if you’re looking down the road to possibly use LiFePO4. If you have 50 amp service, the Boondocker 1260CL is the answer ant too is adjustable for itbium or Flooded /AGM
If you do need an inverter by all means get one but I prefer them not to be the combo inverter/charger. One reason is the high cost for the combo u nits and the other reason is because if one side fails, you have to replace the whole unit. I’ve always preferred them separate. There are a lot of grreat pure sign inverters out there for less than half the cost of the combo units.

[68 Overlander]

Originally Posted by ranchometal

Thanks for this info. Would you recommend I use a 'battery tender' between outings, i.e., during storage? If so, does turning the Store switch to off, completely isolate the battery (except, of course, the propane and electric jack)? I'm thinking I can connect the tender via the factory Zamp solar connection, which is simply a direct wiring to the batteries.

Rancho, I didn't mean to skip this part of your question when I replied, just forgot. You mentioned above you were planning to eventually change out your charger so no, there would be no need for a battery minder/tender with a 4 stage converter/charger. I presume you have power at your storage.
As for the store/use switch...I've never had an Airstream newer than 1994 so I simply don't know about that silly switch. Some say it does allow the converter to pass through during storage and other say it does not. If I had power at the Airstream during storage, I would never set it to store in fact my coach is in storage right now with the batteries being float charged and the fridge on just waiting for us to show up and take a trip.
The only reason I can think of for a store switch would be to prevent the batteries from draining when there is no access to power during storage, so if that is the case, why not have it kill everything. I don't think NEC/RVIA allows them to kill the sniffers (smoke, LP) though, so I would pull the fuses if needed.