Here's a nice article on fuse types, color coding etc.. I have found that some fuses don't follow the color coding standard. For example, I have 35 amp that are both purple and dark green.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fuse_(automotive)
In addition to the blade and glass fuses there are fusible links. These are for very high amperages and are somewhat expensive. If you blow one of these it means you have a dead short, most likely in a difficult to reach spot and the wire is heavy gauge, like direct to the battery for the inverter. (Ask me how I know that one.
) Fusible links can look like a cartridge or maybe a cartridge with a tab on each end so they can be bolted.
Kits, like the one mentioned above, are very good. I keep a couple of sets for the AS, the SUV and my boat. I have regular and mini size blades and some glass fuses, long and short (AGC and AGA).
If you don't the right amperage fuse, but the right size, you can go to a lower amperage. It just means it's going to blow sooner so you have to limit the load on that line until you can get the right one. For example, on my inverter I needed 35 amp fuses but could find only 30. Those worked as long as I didn't try to use the inverter for anything that required a lot of amperage.
If you have an inline glass fuse somewhere, like on the trailer jack, you can buy an enclosed blade fuse replacement holder. I got some off of Amazon that can be closed up to prevent the elements from getting in. One less thing to worry about.
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