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Old 07-24-2020, 09:27 PM   #41
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Just throwing this out there...

Is there any chance that the unit thinks that there is too much electrical load? Not sure how the unit detects and current overload, but maybe if there’s some sort of amp draw sensor that it is going bad?
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Old 07-24-2020, 09:56 PM   #42
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I did have a fleeting thought along those lines.
Is there a way to disconnect the inverter part of the system and then start the motor?
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Old 07-24-2020, 09:58 PM   #43
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Question:
What if I removed the carb, and tried to start with only starting fluid (which has done zero to date by the way)?

If it ran like this, would that prove its a flooding carb?

Can a carb flood a cylinder in ONE second? Cause thats all I get from this motor
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Old 07-24-2020, 10:03 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by groundhogy View Post
Question:
What if I removed the carb, and tried to start with only starting fluid (which has done zero to date by the way)?

If it ran like this, would that prove its a flooding carb?

Can a carb flood a cylinder in ONE second? Cause thats all I get from this motor
In high school my buddy took my future car (73 Toyota Celica) and ran the fuel line directly into the intake and caught the car on fire and melted a bunch of stuff! Danger Danger!
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Old 07-24-2020, 10:06 PM   #45
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Originally Posted by groundhogy View Post
Question:
What if I removed the carb, and tried to start with only starting fluid (which has done zero to date by the way)?

If it ran like this, would that prove its a flooding carb?

Can a carb flood a cylinder in ONE second? Cause thats all I get from this motor
Two brothers from Ohio flew a plane (Wright Flyer) with an engine without a carburetor. That worked pretty well for them.
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Old 07-24-2020, 10:09 PM   #46
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Originally Posted by azflycaster View Post
Two brothers from Ohio flew a plane (Wright Flyer) with an engine without a carburetor. That worked pretty well for them.
Was it a Honda?
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Old 07-25-2020, 12:17 AM   #47
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Yes..
Maybe a metering issue. Lol
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Old 07-25-2020, 07:32 AM   #48
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Onan generators need the alternator to work to supply power to the ignition system or they have the exact same symptoms as yours does. Mine was a bad diode. Maybe.
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Old 07-25-2020, 08:17 AM   #49
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groundhogy,

I re-read your posts. Timing belt was R&R. Have you rechecked crank-cam timing? If it's off, re set and then adjust valves again. Next confirm compression with compression gauge, cyl "as is" get readings and then with a spoonful of motor oil. Compare the two values. With oil value comes up a bit.

Back to basics on internal components before external components have a chance to work.

Good luck,

Gary
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Old 07-25-2020, 08:49 AM   #50
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Probably the least frustrating thing to do with this unit is to take it to a competent small engine shop or Honda power products dealer, and let mechanics that know these units repair it. In the end it might even save you money!! JMHO
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Old 07-25-2020, 09:48 AM   #51
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Probably the least frustrating thing to do with this unit is to take it to a competent small engine shop or Honda power products dealer, and let mechanics that know these units repair it. In the end it might even save you money!! JMHO
But that's not fun OR educational.
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Old 07-25-2020, 11:07 AM   #52
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Get someone to watch the status LEDs when you start it. Maybe one of them is illuminating (low oil, overload). A shop I called (but couldn't get me in for several weeks) told me that most of the time no-start problems are caused by low oil. He said he has fixed not starting units by tilting slightly when filling to ensure a good fill. Maybe when yours starts running it splashes the oil enough to lower below the threshold.

The EU200i service manual is available online. It helped me fix mine. The symptoms were different - hard starting, rough running, then ultimately wouldn't start. IT was the stator coil. There is a winding on it that provides operating voltage for the electronic ignition. If you determine you need a stator, I ended up with an extra.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...mPTXFrLGluvhvQ
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Old 07-25-2020, 12:03 PM   #53
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All I get from this motor is like 1 second of running. And that is once in awhile. It’s sort of like you have to wait a bit before it will fire off again.

-it only runs for a second. Its like the spark goes away with compression... of vibration? Something that happens once motor is active.

-or like a little fumes gets in there after you wait awhile, but thats all it gets
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Old 07-25-2020, 02:37 PM   #54
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Um...

I just put my finger on the exhaust pipe hole...
Pulled the cord a little.
I didn’t feel anything come out.

Is that bad? Lol
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Old 07-25-2020, 02:53 PM   #55
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Pull plug, put finger over spark plug hole and repeat test.

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Old 07-25-2020, 03:24 PM   #56
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RUNNING !!

Without muffler.
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Old 07-25-2020, 04:22 PM   #57
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RUNNING !!

Without muffler.
Probably the only thing that hasn't been mentioned.
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Old 07-25-2020, 04:35 PM   #58
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I think it was mentioned.
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Old 07-25-2020, 09:25 PM   #59
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Well, I want to say thanks to you all for accompanying me and giving me direction during this.
It would have been much harder without you all.

This was actually the end of a complete rebuild of the eu2000i.
There is alot of info out there on repairs to this unit, but I couldnt find anything on an overhaul.
I took pictures and numbered them if anybody is interested. groundhogyh at yahoo
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Old 07-26-2020, 04:51 AM   #60
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So, was the muffler plugged somehow?
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