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Old 07-10-2013, 07:40 AM   #61
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I had a episode at home that resulted in a brief period of 240 on all of the 120 circuits. The result was that every motor and circuit board that was not on a separate surge suppressor fried. My TV and computers were protected by surge suppressors and UPSes. The refrig compressor(not like our AS ammonia units) had its own thermal protection. Circuit boards in the washer, dryer, garage door opener, fan control units, air conditioning units, etc. all had to be replaced. I also replaced all surge suppressors. Basically lighting circuits were OK, but we do not have any 120 lighting circuits on our trailers.
I do not know the spec on our converter, whether it can handle 240 AC input, but it does isolate the 12v system from any AC faults.
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Old 07-10-2013, 07:56 AM   #62
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Originally Posted by panheaddale View Post
Information in this link cannot answer my question. My question is specifically about Airstream system, not RV generality.
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Old 07-10-2013, 07:56 AM   #63
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Your converters will have a total melt down on 240 VAC input. I had a client recently that had a floating neutral in their 50 amp RV pedestal that sent 240 VAC down one side of their 50 amp service.

The converter burst into flames! They also lost the TV, microwave and computer. The appliances on the other half of the 50 amp breaker box were spared.

It was UGLY !
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Old 07-10-2013, 08:55 AM   #64
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MAN, are we glad you did not plug that in

Actually, out of sheer curiosity...what would happen :O ?
Melted human and aluminum
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Old 07-10-2013, 09:07 AM   #65
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Melted human and aluminum
Now that's a smell you will not forget!
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Old 07-10-2013, 09:23 AM   #66
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The only Airstream trailers with a 240V system live in the UK or Australia. Europe is 220V, although appliances tend to be interchangeable.
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Old 07-10-2013, 09:40 AM   #67
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Information in this link cannot answer my question. My question is specifically about Airstream system, not RV generality.
Found specifically what I was looking for in the 2013 Classic manual
http://www.airstream.com/files/libra...64f21a0d98.pdf see section II-23 (pdf page 71)
As an option on the trailers with two A/C units, Airstream uses a Square D 100 amp distribution panel box with a 50 amp 2 pole main breaker.

Did not realize Airstream offered a factory installed 50 amp service in the newer trailers, in both USA and Canada noted in manual!
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Old 07-10-2013, 09:56 AM   #68
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That was the term from that RV electric link - "floating neutral" - the description of this scared me!!

You could check everything at first at plug in and THEN under more load - it happens :O

I really do not understand it except in the link it made a point to test the outlets under significant load as opposed to not to pick up a "floating neutral"

Lewster - the surge protector will not even prevent the damage in such a scenario??

Should I worry about this "floating neutral" scenario and if so what are reasonable steps for lay folks like us to prevent?
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Old 07-10-2013, 10:02 AM   #69
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That was the term from that RV electric link - "floating neutral" - the description of this scared me!!

You could check everything at first at plug in and THEN under more load - it happens :O

I really do not understand it except in the link it made a point to test the outlets under significant load as opposed to not to pick up a "floating neutral"

Lewster - the surge protector will not even prevent the damage in such a scenario??

Should I worry about this "floating neutral" scenario and if so what are reasonable steps for lay folks like us to prevent?
Yes it will prevent it and the surge protector will sacrifice itself and will not allow improper current or voltage to pass thru into your trailer.

These unfortunate folks did not have a surge protector.......they do NOW!
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Old 07-10-2013, 10:03 AM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PharmGeek View Post
That was the term from that RV electric link - "floating neutral" - the description of this scared me!!

You could check everything at first at plug in and THEN under more load - it happens :O

I really do not understand it except in the link it made a point to test the outlets under significant load as opposed to not to pick up a "floating neutral"

Lewster - the surge protector will not even prevent the damage in such a scenario??

Should I worry about this "floating neutral" scenario and if so what are reasonable steps for lay folks like us to prevent?
Is there a plug-in polarity tester for the 220v rv outlet that would show a floating neutral? I do not remember ever seeing one,
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Old 07-10-2013, 10:33 AM   #71
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Originally Posted by A W Warn View Post

Is there a plug-in polarity tester for the 220v rv outlet that would show a floating neutral? I do not remember ever seeing one,
That RV electric link describes a way to apply a load and test - but i would need to read through it again
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Old 07-10-2013, 10:43 AM   #72
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Most people use a device similar to this to test 120v.
I Googled but could not find a plug in device to test 240. It would be nice to have something that is plug and play, since many people do not have a multi-meter, nor understand the functions.
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Old 07-10-2013, 10:49 AM   #73
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The RV electric link shows how to test both 120 legs on the 50 amp service - both voltage and polarity with the device you show there
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Old 07-10-2013, 10:50 AM   #74
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It isn't plug n play though - it ha a bit of rigging to make the device - then it was plug n play
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Old 07-10-2013, 10:51 AM   #75
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But did require a bit of rigging the setup though and then it is plug n play
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Old 07-10-2013, 11:26 AM   #76
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A W Warn View Post
Information in this link cannot answer my question. My question is specifically about Airstream system, not RV generality.
The question you asked is the same whether it is an airstream or SOB. Electric basics are electric basics.
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Old 07-10-2013, 04:26 PM   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A W Warn View Post
Most people use a device similar to this to test 120v.
I Googled but could not find a plug in device to test 240. It would be nice to have something that is plug and play, since many people do not have a multi-meter, nor understand the functions.
I was hoping you could just buy something that does the same thing...but this is I suppose an option...

50-amp Tester

Anyone know of a different product...you have to buy the components for this one and make it - not difficult...and only for testing..so I GUESS it would be hard to screw something up
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Old 07-10-2013, 04:47 PM   #78
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No, you could connect it wrong and then it would not tell you about a problem or tell you there is a problem when you do not have one. I wouldn't build this if you do not know what you are doing and you do not understand why it is connected the way it is. I honestly do not know whether there is a commercially available simple tester for 50 amp out there, but I do know there are expensive surge suppressors, voltage regulators that check the connections when you plug the device in. If you are worried and if you do not know what you are doing, and if you have a 50 amp trailer, then maybe your best bet is to go the expensive route...if you want the insurance.
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Old 07-10-2013, 07:39 PM   #79
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i will def!! buy the surge protection
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Old 07-10-2013, 08:13 PM   #80
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Learn to use a digital volt meter (DVM) and also learn what each pin does. On the 50A socket there are two hots a neutral and a ground. There should be 0 V between the ground and neutral. There should be 220V between the two hots and there should be 120V between either hot and the ground and neutral. A volt or two is nothing to worry about. If you are running a 50A trailer make sure you know how the power is being distributed. Things like not running the microwave and the AC at the same time. Not running 2 AC units at all.

The DVM is the Swiss army knife of electrical tools. You can also get one that measures current so you can measure how many amps you are using. You can use it for AC or DC and also resistance so you can check for shorts and open circuits etc. A DVM should be a part of your tool kit.

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