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terryg · 04-16-2016, 09:51 AM

I recently bit the bullet and purchased an expensive Progressive Industries EMS-PT50C. At he very first RV park I tried to use it the unit failed to connect and gave me an error code indicating an "open ground." This RV park is what I would call a high end park. It's in it's second year of operation and very well maintained. With that in mind, I decided I must have a defective unit. I continued my travels and to my surprise the unit worked perfectly at every other park I visited. With that in mind, I contacted the first park I stayed at and told them they may have a safety issue with their wiring. They checked their pedestals and found they did indeed have open grounds. They were very grateful and said they would have the wiring repaired immediately. I'm a little surprised with all of the high end motorhomes, 5th wheels, etc., frequenting this park the wiring issue wasn't identified earlier. I'm glad I shelled out the bucks for EMS/surge protector.

lewster · 04-16-2016, 10:08 AM

Many high end RVs do not have a line monitor/surge protector. You did the right thing by buying and using yours!!!

I have repaired many thousands of dollars of damage due to open grounds or lost neutrals on these expensive units that did not have a unit like yours.

Good job!!!!!!

Lew Farber
RVIA/RVDA Nationally Certified Master Tech
ABYC Certified Master Marine Electrician
Master Tech Energy Systems, Inc.
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RVDreamer · 04-16-2016, 10:11 AM

You might have saved a life!

We use our Progressive EMS all the time and have found many problems with provided electric at parks. It doesn't matter how high-end the park is, there can still be electrical issues that would ruin your electronics.

Every few years there is always a death caused by an open ground situation. It pays to be safe.

centennialman · 04-16-2016, 11:48 AM

Thanks for your post! I bought one of these units to use with my new Airstream. Next weekend is the first trip when I will use it. Makes me feel more secure after reading your post.

**Rocinante** · 04-16-2016, 11:59 AM

We always use a cheap ground fault tester before plugging into any shore power. We also just ordered this TRC item from Amazon. It checks for ground faults, etc. and displays voltage. We'll use it on the pillar before we back / pull into any site, and then we'll keep it plugged inside the trailer where we can see it.

TRC AECM20020-3-012 Electra Check Digital Monitor for All AC Power Sources, Black with White Face https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001O2SQXQ/

We also use a TRC voltage regulator and surge protector while plugged in, so we hope we're protected. Yeah, it costs a few bucks, but far less than the potential repairs.

splyb · 04-17-2016, 10:24 AM

Where is this device integrated into the system? Or is it just a plug-in apparatus?

streamintrip · 04-17-2016, 11:15 AM

We have used a hard-wired Surge Guard 3450 in our Airstream for the past 7 years. At a rally in UT last year, also at a two-year old 'upmarket' RV Park, we could not get the Surge Guard to connect to the power pedestal after repeated tries. Turns out there were some serious connection issues (of course just at our pedestal). The park's maintenance personnel spent some time at the pedestal and the junction box further back to the main power and found an open ground.

This was just the latest benefit of the Surge Guard. It has detected other open grounds and low voltage issues in other parks, both high and low end. This was a great investment and gives us piece of mind no matter where we power up.

LOGRIDER · 04-17-2016, 01:13 PM

Anything electrical scares the beejeebers outta me...So a question for you experts from an electrical-neophyte; If one was to test at the pedestal using a digital AC line voltage meter and polarity tester, e.g merely plugging into the normal 20 amp outlet on the pedestal rather than the 30 amp, would or could the voltage meter/polarity tester be able to detect issues that might be present at the 30 amp outlet?

ijustlee · 04-17-2016, 03:54 PM

Maybe, maybe not. You might have to pull some current to see a voltage drop from a bad connection. Also the 30 & 50 amp plugs are on different breakers in the pedestal so problems could be hidden from you. Most of the time one of those cheap testers that you plug into an outlet in your trailer will tell you most of what you need to know. It would be best to understand how your RV is wired and what outlets are on which breaker and which leg if you have 50amp service. I have seen live skins even through GFI's so you never can assume anything. Most of the time though the little plug in three light testers and a Kill-A Watt are enough for me.

Terryangie10 · 04-17-2016, 08:24 PM

What would the hook up scenario be in the case of having to use the adapter for a 30 amp service? Would you still be able to use the 50amp surge protector since it is for a 2 pole service?

prairieschooner · 04-17-2016, 08:33 PM

Good Job!
I will follow suit but have a built in GFCI and a Circuit Tester upgrade in our '58

**Rocinante** · 04-18-2016, 06:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by splyb

Where is this device integrated into the system? Or is it just a plug-in apparatus?

In our case the voltage regulator and surge protector are plugged in, not integrated into our RV's wiring. You can buy a version of the surge protector that is installed in the trailer and you would then integrate that into your shore power input, but we did not do this. We like that we can easily replace a component if it gets burned out by a bad electrical situation.

lewster · 04-18-2016, 07:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rocinante

In our case the voltage regulator and surge protector are plugged in, not integrated into our RV's wiring. You can buy a version of the surge protector that is installed in the trailer and you would then integrate that into your shore power input, but we did not do this. We like that we can easily replace a component if it gets burned out by a bad electrical situation.

I completely concur!!

streamintrip · 04-19-2016, 08:31 PM

We hard-wired our Surge Guard and it fits nicely in a cabinet over the bed. A simple 30 min job. Nothing to plug in at the pedestal, and it is out-of-sight/out-of-mind doing the job. Also it is not subject to theft, although I understand anti-theft hasps are available to 'lock' the plug-in types to the pedestal.

In any event, these Surge Guards and their competitors are a great idea!

lewster · 04-19-2016, 08:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jrolls

We hard-wired our Surge Guard and it fits nicely in a cabinet over the bed. A simple 30 min job. Nothing to plug in at the pedestal, and it is out-of-sight/out-of-mind doing the job. Also it is not subject to theft, although I understand anti-theft hasps are available to 'lock' the plug-in types to the pedestal.

In any event, these Surge Guards and their competitors are a great idea!

Most larger diesel pusher motor homes have their surge protection devices hard-wired. This presents a significant problem if it does it's sacrificial job and is compromised. I gat numerous calls for this scenario and that of a bad transfer switch.

You then either have to replace the unit immediately in order to get shore power to the coach, or wire a temporary bypass around the burnt out device. This is where the portable units shine brightly.

If you have a bad incident and the device sacrifices itself due to a power post surge or worse, you can simply move to another site that has a good electrical supply, plug the coach back in and finish your trip. Replacement is as easy as plugging in again.

That is an added benefit of the plug-in style surge protector.

FCStreamer · 05-04-2016, 08:23 AM

I just purchased the Progressive PT50C for my TT. I am new to all of this, but something I read somewhere said protecting the electronics with a good surge protector was a must. Less that $350 in Amazon. Cheap insurance.

Now, how do you guys secure your protectors so they don't get "borrowed" without permission?

Davidwantz · 05-05-2016, 08:40 AM

I am showing my newbieness here. I have a 30' Classic that takes a 50A service. Were I to find a pedestal with only 30A service, I'd haul out the dogbone and connect up. Will i also need a 30A surge protector? Or can I use the 50A surge protector somewhere in the line?

Thanks

Dave

FCStreamer · 05-05-2016, 08:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Davidwantz

I am showing my newbieness here. I have a 30' Classic that takes a 50A service. Were I to find a pedestal with only 30A service, I'd haul out the dogbone and connect up. Will i also need a 30A surge protector? Or can I use the 50A surge protector somewhere in the line?

Thanks

Dave

From a fellow newbie with the exact same question - I emailed Progressive Industries and they said I could use my 50 amp protector on a 30 amp connection with an adapter, and just be mindful of the usage.

http://www.progressiveindustries.net...f23d0ff00075a0

Rpatrick16 · 05-05-2016, 10:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FCStreamer

I just purchased the Progressive PT50C for my TT. I am new to all of this, but something I read somewhere said protecting the electronics with a good surge protector was a must. Less that $350 in Amazon. Cheap insurance.

Now, how do you guys secure your protectors so they don't get "borrowed" without permission?

There should be a place to put a padlock on your unit near the plug. To protect mine I went to HomeDepot and bought a plastic coated steel cable (actually a dog type chain with connectors on both ends). Mine is about 20' long. I either secure it to a nearby removable object such as a near by tree or to place on the trailer. I've used both and I highly recommend you secure it....or it will disappear.

I do the same with my generator although it is much thicker cable.

**Rocinante** · 05-05-2016, 11:05 AM

Cables are easy to cut, as are the cheap pieces of metal or plastic through which they or the locks are usually run. For that matter, electrical cables are pretty easy to cut once you unplug them. Still, this would slow down amateurs and pranksters and is certainly worth doing if it helps you be more relaxed while camping.

So far, we've just put it under the trailer, mostly hidden by the wheels, along with our voltage regulator (which is actually more expensive). I've considered spray-painting the regulator (big yellow box) with black paint, but haven't done that yet. In this location they are a little less obvious for casual passers-by to see and wonder about. If rain threatens, we also put the gear on blocks to keep it out of likely puddles under the trailer. This configuration presupposes a 2nd extension cord. So it goes like this:

shore power => 1st extension cord => Voltage Regulator => Surge Protector => Furrion cord => Trailer