Visit our Popular Forums

Wardinbb · 12-14-2005, 06:06 PM

Thank you guys, I'm not bad at following directions.
Yes, the male plug on the trailer for shore power is just a 3 prong 15a.
The power cord run from it to the breaker box is gage 10/3 and its aluminum wire.
I guess my next question is why would you want a 25 foot cord? The run from the receptical to the breaker box is about 3 feet. Don't they come any shorter? Or am I missing something else, AGAIN?

Thanks,
Ed

**azflycaster** · 12-14-2005, 06:13 PM

The 25 foot 30 amp line is the shore power to the trailer. You will also need to install a matching outlet on your house if you intend to plug in at home. I have one mounted just below my electrical panel on the house.

Wardinbb · 12-14-2005, 06:29 PM

Thanks John and AZ.
The shopping list and the explaination are well received.

Obvously my existing installation, even though it works, was altered by the PO. The upgrade goes without question and add a few pigtails adapters, I'll have everything proper.

Thanks again,
Ed

john hd · 12-14-2005, 08:01 PM

Quote:

I guess my next question is why would you want a 25 foot cord?

ed, you do want to go camping with the unit someday?

you will need a 10 gauge cord at least that long if you want to use a pedestal at a camp ground to plug in. they can be placed at random at most camp grounds i have stayed at.

25 feet is a minimum at best, you will use at least 3 feet of it just to get it wired into your new panel.

some airstream dealers sell a canadian spec cord that is even longer! 32 feet if i remember correctly.

get the stuff and we can go from there.....

john

Wardinbb · 12-14-2005, 08:35 PM

Hey John, thanks for the follow-up.
I checked Dryers RV for the various components and see what your talking about. I don't believe there's enough room to store 25' of that cord in my service bay, which is just too bad. Dryers didn't feature the male 30amp receptical, just the female on a mounting plate. Nor did I see a dbl male adapter to use. Please correct me, but it appears that the standard 30amp receptical mounted on a trailer is female. If you plug the extension cord male side into the campground outlet, how does it then connect to the female at the trailer? As you can see, I am not familar with campground set-ups nor the new style 30amp plug. I know how it needs to go together but don't see the set up for it. Can you advise?
Thanks,
Ed

47WeeWind · 12-14-2005, 09:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wardinbb

... I don't believe there's enough room to store 25' of that cord in my service bay, which is just too bad. Ed

Hi Ed:

I can easily store a 25 foot long 1" diameter shore power cord in the covered storage area between the rear bumper and the rear shell on my 1964 Globe Trotter. Your 1964 Trade Wind should have identical storage, which should not be a problem. The male shore power cord is hard wired at the opposite end into the new breaker box you are going to buy and install inside your trailer's rear service center area.

Wardinbb · 12-14-2005, 10:04 PM

That would be a welcome solution.
Take a look at my configuration. I just finished re-doing the bumper locker. The PIC below shows the electrical receptical patched over to the left of the service door. And the depth of my bumper locker is only about 6" deep before it runs into the black tank box. It is also NOT weather-proof due to the piano hinge I used to rebuild. Is your configuration the same? How does your cord get into the bumper locker?

Thanks Ed.

markdoane · 12-14-2005, 10:24 PM

Ed,

The standard installation is the hardwired or permanent method described by Fred. However, you can put in a separable cord, with a recessed male power inlet, not a female as you mentioned. Then you can put the cord wherever you like.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wardinbb

Please correct me, but it appears that the standard 30amp receptical mounted on a trailer is female. If you plug the extension cord male side into the campground outlet, how does it then connect to the female at the trailer? As you can see, I am not familar with campground set-ups nor the new style 30amp plug. I know how it needs to go together but don't see the set up for it. Can you advise?
Thanks,
Ed

This is what the male inlet looks like=>

Wardinbb · 12-14-2005, 10:34 PM

Thanks! Markdoane
Where do I get one?
Obviously just cause it was not shown on the Dryers RV site dosen't mean it doesn't exist!

And Fred, the bumper locker will be great for storing the extension cord, but I am very curious as to how you have configured your set-up.

Appreciation to all,
Ed

**azflycaster** · 12-15-2005, 05:02 AM

Ed,
The power cord along with the sewer hose fits fine in the bumper storage area of my 75 Trade Wind. The problem I have at my house is that it comes up about 6 feet short of my outlet. I have an extra 25 foot extension that I bought at CW to solve that problem. I also have an adapter that goes over the cable end to convert it to 15 amp service. With that I can plug in anywhere, but not use the AC. If you do not have them I would also suggest you purchase the following 2 items.
1. A multi meter
2. A polarity checker (plugs into a wall outlet)
You can get both at Home Depot, Lowes, Ace HW, Radio Shack etc. They are not expensive and a must have for electical work. My trailers PO had a polarity checker plugged into an outlet in the kitchen and it is still there.

markdoane · 12-15-2005, 05:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wardinbb

Thanks! Markdoane
Where do I get one?
Ed

Camping World has them, with $1 shipping charge.
http://reserveamerica.campingworld.c...28231&src=CROS
There's a store in San Bernadino.

Wardinbb · 12-15-2005, 10:13 AM

Thanks guys, all is appreciated. Now comes the quality question. Has anybody found a difference in quality between the RV supplier plugs and housings verses those supplied by the boat/marine retailers? I figure, which I've demonstrated I ought to stop doing, that the plug itself is pretty universal and it's the aesthetic of the housing that becomes the preference.
Any comments on finish?
And do you experienced folks have a preference for the cord style? Evidently there's been some design progression in how the ends are configured together with handle styles. Ya also got your colored cords, and all kinds of adapters for all kinds of conditions.

So I guess the question now is, what's your optimum cord and plug configuration based on your experience?

Ed

markdoane · 12-15-2005, 11:46 AM

I'm pretty sure the RV inlet pictured above is a Marinco product, which is also a popular marine manufacturer.

I bought the 50a ParkPower (tm) conversion kit, which includes the power inlet and the matching female end, along with an electrical box. This is what you could use if you have an existing hardwired powercord.

In your case, you would probably want to buy a new cord that has the molded-on male plug on one end, and a 30a twist-lok female on the other end. If you buy the cord with the female end already attached, you don't need to buy the kit, just the recessed male inlet that was shown above.

Wardinbb · 12-15-2005, 12:25 PM

I agree, the Camping World non-metalic power inlet is a Marinco product. A quick search reveals that these are available fro $31 to $89.00! Their stainless model I've found can be had anywhere from $56.00 to $119.00!
I've settled on the Hubbell Ss303 Inlet 30a-125v , its the same as the square cover on the Marinco but the cover and backplate is stainless. It's all a matter of image and what you what to look at when your working with it. But I think the finish image of this model is the most condusive to the lines of a 60's AS.

Thanks everybody, I'm now armed with the proper material list for the electrical upgrade. And FRED, let's have a look at your hard wired set up!

Thanks ever so much,
Ed

markdoane · 12-15-2005, 12:38 PM

The Hubbell cover is very nice. And they make a matching telephone & cable TV inlet.

47WeeWind · 12-15-2005, 02:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wardinbb

And FRED, let's have a look at your hard wired set up! Thanks ever so much, Ed

Ed: Here are two photos of my shore power line routingin my 1964 Ohio built 19' Globe Trotter. The first photo on the left shows the thick black power cord line going forward into the street side frame member "C" channel on the streetside of the rear bumper storage area. The second photo in the center shows that same thick black power line coming up out of the floor in the service area and heading up out of sight to the breaker box, to which it is hardwired. You can also see the city water inlet towards the left in the left hand photo. I keep a 90 degree "L" permanemtly attached to it to make connecting a hose much easier than the Airstream engineers intended it to be. FWIW, California built '64 Globe Trotters have some of their utilities located in different positions than mine. Is your '64 TW California or Ohio built?

TomW · 12-15-2005, 03:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 47WeeWind

... Is your '64 TW California or Ohio built?

Excellent question.

I had the opportunity to help fellow forum member till prep his '67 Overlander for transit, and was amazed at the differences between his California-built Airstream, and my same-year-same-model, Ohio built American Classic.

Tom

Wardinbb · 12-15-2005, 04:27 PM

Hey Fred,
Looks good, seems that's about the only place a cable like that could work! My unit was built in SantaFe,CA. Your water service is mounted on the inside of bumper locker! Mine's on the outside coming through the streetside c channel. But I think they were both made the same because I think I now know what that extra little trap door was for on the left bottom of the old bumper locker pan. Here's a shot of mine below. It was probably altered for ease of use. Actually I like the hose bib. I'd be a bit happier if I could find one in silver or stainless.

Ed

Calvin · 12-15-2005, 07:34 PM

Hi Ed;
I hope you managed to get everything straightened out. My '66 Airtstream Overlander had a blown water heater when I purchased it. After replacing the original with a 10 gallon lowboy 120 volt electric water heater, I rewired my panel. Originally, I thought I'd have to change the whole breaker box. My panel was wired using the 30 amp breaker as a main with two 20 breakers and a 30 amp supply cord. I was able to connect the main power wires supplying the panel directly to the bus bar. This gave me the 30 amp breaker ( which I ran to the air conditioner only), and the two 20 amp breakers ( one for lights and one for the water heater). I still have the original Univolt DC supply and the Armstrong air conditioner.

This has worked with no problems for several years now. The parks I hook up to have a 30 amp breaker which basically does the same as the one in the trailer which used to serve as a main. The equipment you run may or may not pull the full rated amperage, depending on it's requirements at the time. I have had to use a 20 amp plug in when working on my unit and have had no problems servicing the A/C like this. I do turn off the hot water heater and only run the A/C long enough to service it.

I just purchased a Newmark power converter and will be upgrading the DC voltage supply soon. Good luck with your project.
Calvin
Just a note: If you change your 15 amp supply plug to a 30 amp, make sure your power cord wires are #10 AWG ( This is the minimum size required to service 30 amps.) That should be standard, but making assumptions can lead to problems!

markdoane · 12-15-2005, 08:51 PM

Calvin,

Your rewiring may be functional, but it is not permitted by Nat'l Elec. Code.

It's your trailer, do what you want, but please be careful about what you recommend other people do.

Also, please put a big sign on the panel indicating it doesn't have a main disconnect. Most service people expect to see a main 30a breaker they can use to disconnect all power to the branch circuits. Without that you could hurt someone.

Also, let me know if you ever decide to sell your airstream.