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Old 07-21-2012, 06:03 PM   #21
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I believe you are referring to the converter. The large wires are for the battery positive and negative connections. The smaller wire going to the chassis is the earth ground for the converter.
Lose connections are a problem on the DC side of the converter. But since it is a plug in device on the AC side. The converter won't be the problem.
Does it look like the outlet for the converter was added? If so check it to make sure the black wire is connected to the gold screw and white is connected to the silver screw. If not, make the change. With the trailer unplugged.
All of this still doesn't explain the lack of a chassis ground. Is there a wire going from the ground buss in the power panel to the chassis of the trailer? It may be a bare copper wire, and should be 6 gauge.
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Old 07-21-2012, 07:13 PM   #22
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When the power converter is not plugged in everything is perfect. When I plug the converter in my volt tester still goes off. The ground to chassis wire is attached to the stud inside the closet. So now I'm stumped. Maybe it's fine as is?
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Old 07-21-2012, 07:39 PM   #23
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First we have to determine if you are talking about a convertor or an inverter.
Is the unit plugged into a 110 volt AC outlet. If it is that is a convertor that converts 110AC to battery 12 volts DC.

If it an inverter, not a common item back in 74, it sounds like it has been wired backwards on the output side. See if you can go on line and get a wiring diagram for the unit
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Old 07-21-2012, 07:39 PM   #24
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I would check the outlet. I doubt the converter is wired wrong internally.
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Old 07-21-2012, 07:54 PM   #25
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I checked the outlet and it as fine. I think all is good. My voltage tester was picking up a bit, but that's prob because the converter is grounded to the frame. I can't feel anything underneath anymore. So I guess it was just a loose wire in the back of the converter? Another thing I forgot to mention was that when I plugged my tester into outlets before I did anything the one yellow light was bright and the other kind of dim. Now both are nice and bright.

Thanks for all the help.
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Old 07-21-2012, 08:08 PM   #26
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Was the convertor plugged into that receptacle when you tested a dim light?

I ask this because the fact that the output wire on the convertor was loose, and the batteries floating should not cause a problem on the input side at the receptacle. If this was the case there is a real problem with that design. A way to test this would be go back and remove one of the battery cables and see it the problem reappears ay the receptacle.

If it does that is a dangerous condition that warrants noting for others.
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Old 07-21-2012, 09:18 PM   #27
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I was referring to the receptacle being wired wrong. The lose wire would certainly be a reason for the lights flickering. The the shock hazard on the skin is a different issue. Some where there is a hot wire touching the skin/frame or the hot wire is wired wrong (to the neutral side) and the earth ground side is not really grounded. More investigation is necessary.
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Old 07-21-2012, 09:59 PM   #28
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Yes he has solved one of the problems. The other is the more important one and the reason should be found so it is truly corrected before someone get hurt.
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Old 07-22-2012, 07:12 AM   #29
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I haven't gotten through this thread yet, but mine had the same issue when I went to pick it up. It ended up being because it was plugged into a power cord with no ground peg. Properly plugged in there was no issue.
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Old 07-22-2012, 09:03 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CMSmith View Post
I haven't gotten through this thread yet, but mine had the same issue when I went to pick it up. It ended up being because it was plugged into a power cord with no ground peg. Properly plugged in there was no issue.
You have a problem you have just MASKED it. A correct electrical system will not have voltage leaking to the trailer skin if there is not a third wire ground. That third wire ground is a safety designed to carry off voltage before someone gets killed. It is not meant to replace the neutral. Under normal conditions you should not be able to measure, or feel, voltage on an open ground.
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Old 07-22-2012, 12:05 PM   #31
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Hey guys

so it seems directly related to the Iota power converter that I just installed last year. Everything is fine with all circuits on and the converter not plugged in. Once i plug the converter in my tester beeps from about 6" away from the skin. Without the converter plugged in i have to touch the trailer with it before it beeps. I have tried plugging the converter into different outlets and had the same result. Every outlet tests perfect and I have inspected all outlets, and the junction box with the polarity light and they are all fine. Maybe the problem is how I am testing the skin? Ill try testing the way Howie suggested early in this thread. But I think it seems fine now. I could touch underneath and can't feel anything.
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Old 07-22-2012, 12:24 PM   #32
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A quick test. Remove the ground wire from the convertor and test the skin while the convertor is plugged in. If there is no voltage on the skin during that test I would suspect the convertor is bad and leaking to the skin through the ground wire.

If so remove the convertor and bench test it. Plug it in and measure from the convertor body to ground. There should not be measurable AC voltage there.
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Old 07-22-2012, 03:20 PM   #33
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Hey guys. I went with plan b. call electrician buddy to take a look. Using the proper tester there is less than a volt coming through the shell. And even if it was more it's grounding properly and it would just kick out a breaker. So I don't know what I did that actually fixed it. But all is well. Thanks for all the quick replies.
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