Electrical & 12V system

[Minno]

Do you mean here?


Then yes, if you cut an access hole in the wall, you should find the ucord, and hopefully, where it connects to the trailer's wiring harness. Even if there are no connectors there, you'll be able to splice into the cord.

Chris

[TG Twinkie]

I wasn't sure where the yellow wire off of the switch went. So it's just coiled up and laying there next to where one end is connected to the switch?
I didn't realize that you had taken the old fuse holder out. I would assume that you took out the 3 yellow wires as well? If this is the case there isn't anything you can do with the jumper and the meter.
Is the switch located in the cabinet where the sink is or was?
Have you totally gutted the inside of the trailer?
Where are the 2 blue wires located? I can see the old fuse holder in one of the photos you just posted. But I don't see the 2 blue wires.
I see you posted a brochure of what must have been your trailer when it was new. Are you going with the same or similar floor plan? No matter what you will have to plan ahead for the installation of the water pump it's switch and light along with any other 12volt devices you have in the trailer. Since the interior skin still exist and I would assume you don't want to remove it, you will have to route the wiring behind or within the cabinetry etc.

[lucymcdog]

Originally Posted by TG Twinkie

I wasn't sure where the yellow wire off of the switch went. So it's just coiled up and laying there next to where one end is connected to the switch? yes. It is coiled up under the sink cabinet.
I didn't realize that you had taken the old fuse holder out. I would assume that you took out the 3 yellow wires as well? I did - but before I did I looked at what they were hooked to and one went to the water pump and the other went to that other pump looking thing. If this is the case there isn't anything you can do with the jumper and the meter.
Is the switch located in the cabinet where the sink is or was? The switch and light are on the front of the galley cabinet.
Have you totally gutted the inside of the trailer? Mostly gutted. We left in the cabinet with the fridge - in hopes that the fridge will actually work.
Where are the 2 blue wires located? Inside in the front of the trailer, curbside - right in the curve. The old fuse box was located just above the blue wires, about a foot. I can see the old fuse holder in one of the photos you just posted. But I don't see the 2 blue wires.
I see you posted a brochure of what must have been your trailer when it was new. Are you going with the same or similar floor plan? Yes, we will put in a dinette and everything else will stay as I got it. The PO had taken out whatever was in the front and put in a tacky cabinet so that was the first to go. No matter what you will have to plan ahead for the installation of the water pump it's switch and light along with any other 12volt devices you have in the trailer. Since the interior skin still exist and I would assume you don't want to remove it, you will have to route the wiring behind or within the cabinetry etc. I routed the 120 VAC new wiring around the floor behind and within the cabinetry and will do the same with the 12VDC wires. The wiring that can't be concealed in cabinetry is in wiring chases that will be painted the same color as the wall.

I found another little 12V light that was original to the trailer and I will put it in the bathroom area, connect the ceiling light (12V), the water pump, propane detector and whatever I need for the fridge if I have to get a new one. That should be about all for 12V so I think I will be able to hide the wiring easily enough.

[TG Twinkie]

So we still have the other blue wire to ID. Are there any overhead cabinets in this trailer? Could you post a few shots of the inside. I'm more curious than anything to see what it came with. Haven't seen one that is as old as yours. As I recall you said there is only one light fixture in the trailer. Are there switches anywhere other than the one for the pump? I noticed that in the posting of the brochure on the trailer there is no light on the outside by the door. Is yours the same? No outside light.
Do you have any clue as to where the little 12V light you found might have been mounted?

[lucymcdog]

I cut a hole in the wall at the front on the inside and voila! there was the wiring harness! Exactly where I cut the hole! I was so excited!!!

I pulled everything through the hole - as well as the stub of UCord and have posted a picture of what I found. There are two green trailer wires connected to the one UCord wire which was as expected. When I run all this through the fuse box (which I haven't received yet), do I put each of the green wires to a fuse separately or do they go together?

The only strange thing was the yellow UCord was connected to a blue wire. I did a continuity test on it and, when connected to the RIGHT blue wire coming out on the inside, it tested "0". Why would a wire from the TV need to provide power to something inside the trailer? Perhaps it was for the pressure pump for the old water tank?

I do have some overhead cabinets but the only wiring inside was in the galley cabinet and it was 120VAC. I am not using any of the original 120 wiring inside and all that has been tied off and disconnected from everything. The only other overhead cabinet is over the bed next to the fridge cabinet. I've posted a "before" picture of the galley cabinet.

There were two other 12V on/off switches in the trailer - one by the bed for a light that is no more, and one in the bathroom (it is potty only - no shower or sink). I've posted a picture of a 120VAC lamp that was over the bed but the switch beside it didn't control it. That switch (not surprisingly) wasn't connected to anything.

A PO put a little light on the bedroom side of a little partition but didn't bother to hide wires or anything so I took it down. That is the light I think I'll put in the bathroom and attach one of the on/off switches to it.

The interior pictures I've posted are all "before" pictures so you can see what I've been dealing with. But I have already refinished all the cabinetry, replaced the rotten floor, and put down new vinyl tile flooring (not to mention replacing all the 120VAC wiring and getting the towing lights to working - with a LOT of help from my friends!). We are putting in all new tanks - fresh, black, and adding a gray tank. I'm also replacing the toilet with a ceramic one.

The trailer has the original Princess stove which is in excellent condition and Norcold fridge which has seen better days.

There is no outside light on it other than the running lights. Speaking of which, I put on my new running lights, replaced the taillights and hooked up the license plate light. Hooked up the charger to it for a test and EVERYTHING works perfectly!

It is just 18' tail to tongue and is absolutely adorable. Or at least one of these days it will be.

Life is good!

[TG Twinkie]

What a beautiful trailer you have! It will be something to see when it is finished. I knew you could get the exterior lights to work! Congratulations!!!
From this point on it will be "A walk in the park" so to speak.
I pulled everything through the hole - as well as the stub of UCord and have posted a picture of what I found. There are two green trailer wires connected to the one UCord wire which was as expected. When I run all this through the fuse box (which I haven't received yet), do I put each of the green wires to a fuse separately or do they go together?
I don't think you have that many marker/tail lights. You could just put them together.
The only strange thing was the yellow UCord was connected to a blue wire. I did a continuity test on it and, when connected to the RIGHT blue wire coming out on the inside, it tested "0". Why would a wire from the TV need to provide power to something inside the trailer? Perhaps it was for the pressure pump for the old water tank? Apparently the PO used the battery in the TV instead of having one in the trailer. The mystery of the 2nd blue wire is now solved. The yellow wire in the UCord could have been connected through the Auxillary pin of the 7 pin connector thus providing 12V power to the trailer.
Try this; connect the two blue wires inside the trailer together with a wire nut.
Then connect the red lead of the charger to the yellow wire in the UCord. Black lead to ground; then test the light fixture. I'll bet it will work.
In the new work you install, you will obviously use a black (or red in your case) #10 wire for the +12V which will be connected to the battery as per Chris's drawing. You can provide power to the blue wire (cut the yellow off) by connecting it to your fuse block on the terminal Chris has labeled "lights" The small light you plan to install can also be connected there.
Did you find where the white wire in the UCord is connected to the frame or skin?
A reminder to clean the wiring really well before you connect them to the new fuse block. If you can locate where the white wire is connected to the frame, clean that point as well.

[lucymcdog]

I forgot to tell you - I couldn't find any white wire other than the one that is in the black sheathing with the blue wire (white is bolted to tongue, blue goes to brakes). There is not a white wire in the wiring harness coming from the trailer.

[TG Twinkie]

Just to clarify a couple of points. Since both of the fuse blocks will be located inside the trailer.
The BLACK wire in the new UCord will be connected to the fuse block at the 30 amp location.
One of the wires on the break away switch will connect directly to the positive terminal on the battery.
The other wire on the break away switch will connect to the BLUE wire in the UCord and the brake BLUE wire in the black sheath.
The RED wire from the battery positive terminal will connect at three locations. The first is the 30 amp location opposite of where the UCord BLACK wire is connected. The second is to the power side of the "Ganged" fuse block. Third is obviously the battery positive terminal.

[TG Twinkie]

I forgot to tell you - I couldn't find any white wire other than the one that is in the black sheathing with the blue wire (white is bolted to tongue, blue goes to brakes). There is not a white wire in the wiring harness coming from the trailer.
That's OK; just run a wire from the negative terminal of the battery thru the single fuse holder (yet to be purchased) to the frame of the trailer. Then connect the WHITE wire from the new UCord to the frame as well. If you can connect both of these wires to the same place as the White wire to the brakes (the one in the black sheath) is connected it would be great.
Was the OLD UCord spliced to the wires that you pulled out into the trailer? In the photo you posted #76 there is a white wire in the TV UCord. What was it connected to in the trailer UCord?

[lucymcdog]

Originally Posted by TG Twinkie

Just to clarify a couple of points. Since both of the fuse blocks will be located inside the trailer.
The BLACK wire in the new UCord will be connected to the fuse block at the 30 amp location.
One of the wires on the break away switch will connect directly to the positive terminal on the battery.
The other wire on the break away switch will connect to the BLUE wire in the UCord and the brake BLUE wire in the black sheath.
The RED wire from the battery positive terminal will connect at three locations. The first is the 30 amp location opposite of where the UCord BLACK wire is connected. The second is to the power side of the "Ganged" fuse block. Third is obviously the battery positive terminal.

Boy, does that sound confusing. I will have to wait until I get my fuse boxes and my in-line 30 amp fuse to be able to see how this all goes together. I'm not hooking up anything until I lay it all out, take pictures and get the A-OK.

There was a stub of white and a stub of blue wire that was part of the Ucord but there was no white wire in the wiring harness in the trailer walls. The old Ucord was spliced to the trailer harness wiring but nothing was hooked to the white and blue wires. Those are the two in the picture. Since I will be bringing the new Ucord inside the trailer, I will need to buy another one because the one that was attached (and didn't have a plug on it) won't be long enough. Chris said he got one with the plug already on it - I'll see if I can find that and have one less thing to have to worry about.

When I get all my fuse boxes and fuses together I'll be back with more questions.

[lucymcdog]

Oops! Actually, there is a blue wire in the walls - a heavy one - and it is wired to the yellow Ucord wire. It is the one that is the same as the right side blue wire inside the trailer.

Too many wires!

[TG Twinkie]

Do you know all of the locations this blue wire inside the walls go to? It may come in handy for your 12V wiring. Don't worry. We will take it one step at a time and it will all become clear.
I am assuming the new dinette will be installed in the front of the trailer. Is this where your fresh water tank and pump will be?
A longer UCord will be good.
If you look at Chris's drawing while reading the info in post #108 above, I think it will make more sense. If you have a way to print a copy of the drawing it would be helpful.

[lucymcdog]

Originally Posted by TG Twinkie

Do you know all of the locations this blue wire inside the walls go to? It may come in handy for your 12V wiring. Don't worry. We will take it one step at a time and it will all become clear.
I am assuming the new dinette will be installed in the front of the trailer. Is this where your fresh water tank and pump will be?
A longer UCord will be good.
If you look at Chris's drawing while reading the info in post #108 above, I think it will make more sense. If you have a way to print a copy of the drawing it would be helpful.

The only blue wires inside the trailer are the two that are sticking out in the front.

The new dinette will be installed in the front of the trailer and the new fresh water tank and pump are as far forward as they will go. The two fuse boxes will be under the dinette seat. The water tank will be covered by a box but will have a removable lid so that I can access everything.

I have already printed up Chris' drawing (VERY helpful!) and I print up all the instructions given to me (also VERY helpful!) and have it all handy when I do anything. It makes it much clearer to me when I have something telling me what to do as I'm doing it.

I hope to have my fuse boxes in soon and maybe can get it up and going this week.

Again, thanks. I know I've said it before but truly, I could not have done any of this without the help I've gotten from the forum.

[TG Twinkie]

When you said Oops! There are blue wires in the walls; I thought you found more than just the 2 previously mentioned. Did you try connecting the 2 together and the charger routine I mentioned to see if it all works?
Your Thanks is much appreciated and I'm sure Chris and all others that helped would agree. I think I speak for all of us when I say we are happy to help.
Personally I get a kick out of trying to help with problems. It gives me a good feeling to be able to help solve the problems, especially when the results are positive; and I'm not actually there.
So keep asking questions and describing the problems and we will continue to help all we can.
You never know; Someday there may be someone who needs help in these areas and with the knowledge you have gained here, you can help.
I'll keep watching your posts for when you get the fuse blocks in and help in any way I can.
I travel through the San Luis Valley from time to time, so maybe I'll get the opportunity to take a look at your little jewel someday. We may take a trip to Mesa Verde in the spring or early summer when Wolf Creek Pass is clear of snow. If we do, we will bring TG Twinkie and you can see the dinette in person.

[lucymcdog]

Wow! We would love for you to come for a visit (and inspection!). We are 6 miles out of Saguache which is right on Hwy. 285. Just let us know when you're coming!

I didn't get a chance to run the test on the blue wires - had to decorate the Christmas tree we cut down last week. We've got *12* people coming Christmas day and 25 coming for a party on Sunday.

I hope to run the tests tomorrow and will let you know what I find.

I got my fuse boxes in today but I forgot to buy the little connectors that push on to the boxes so I will have to wait until I go to town again. Plus I want to exchange my red wire for white so that the battery will be wired with black and white instead of black and red (my OCD kicking in).

[lucymcdog]

Originally Posted by TG Twinkie

Try this; connect the two blue wires inside the trailer together with a wire nut.
Then connect the red lead of the charger to the yellow wire in the UCord. Black lead to ground; then test the light fixture. I'll bet it will work.

And the ceiling light came on!

[lucymcdog]

I've got everything I need to finish up the Ucord but I have a few questions.

1. In my trailer wiring I have 2 green wires - one #16 and one #14, twisted together. These two green wires were connected to what used to be the old Ucord (the stub sticking out of the trailer). Am I to put both of the green wires in one fuse slot and then the new Ucord green to the other side of it?

2. There is a #16 black wire in the trailer wire bundle and it was connected to a black wire from the old Ucord. The only black wire I found during all these tests, etc. was the #16 black wire in the curbside taillight that wasn't connected to anything. It still isn't connected to anything - I just capped the end of it and left it in the taillight hole. Should I go ahead and connect it to the black wire in the Ucord? I don't know what it was for. The taillight works with it as it is.

3. The sheathed blue/white wire that went to the brakes was brittle and banged up so I got new blue/white wire of the same size. My plan is to run it in pvc to the brake connection and tie it in there. The current sheathed wire has the white to the bolt on the tongue and the blue to the blue in the old Ucord. Do I keep the new wiring the same? Will I need to bring them inside the trailer to the fuse box? There is no blue wire in the trailer harness (other than the one that was connected to the yellow Ucord wire and works the ceiling light when connected to a battery). What do I do with the white wire in the new Ucord?

4. When I put the trailer wiring harness wires in the fuse box I assume I bring the new Ucord inside the trailer and put the new Ucord wires opposite them on the other side of the fuse box?

5. Do I need to have a white ground wire inside the fuse box anywhere?

6. When I put the connectors on these wires (the 1/4" female that slides on the fuse box male), do I need to use that heat shrink stuff?

I was able to get a longer Ucord but they didn't have the kind with the plug already on it. I have a plug and will put it together tonight.

That's it for starters.

[Minno]

Originally Posted by lucymcdog

And the ceiling light came on!

Fantasitc!!!!

I made you a new wiring diagram, 'cuz I thought you were confused on how to wire in the breakaway switch and battery. See the attached PDF file. Hopefully, it's clear enough. I tried to show how I would wire the new ucord in. Doing the majority of the connections inside the trailer makes sense to me, as it keeps them out of the weather. Plus, you don't need to cut into the new ucord outside the trailer at all doing it this way. But, you will need to bring a black, blue, and white wire back out to the front. As TG and I have mentioned before, you can use the frame bolt as a location for all the white wires to connect together and to the frame, and then use the positive terminal on the battery to connect the breakaway switch. If you have any questions, let us know. We'll happily answer them!

Chris

[Minno]

I've got everything I need to finish up the Ucord but I have a few questions.

1. In my trailer wiring I have 2 green wires - one #16 and one #14, twisted together. These two green wires were connected to what used to be the old Ucord (the stub sticking out of the trailer). Am I to put both of the green wires in one fuse slot and then the new Ucord green to the other side of it? Connect the two green wires from the harness together, and then connect to the fuse block. I tried to show that on the drawing as well – the two green wires coming off the right side of the fuse block.


2. There is a #16 black wire in the trailer wire bundle and it was connected to a black wire from the old Ucord. The only black wire I found during all these tests, etc. was the #16 black wire in the curbside taillight that wasn't connected to anything. It still isn't connected to anything - I just capped the end of it and left it in the taillight hole. Should I go ahead and connect it to the black wire in the Ucord? I don't know what it was for. The taillight works with it as it is. I would leave the back wire disconnected. Cap or tape it so it doesn’t short anything out. I’d run new black wiring from the ucord fuse block to the ganged fuse block.

3. The sheathed blue/white wire that went to the brakes was brittle and banged up so I got new blue/white wire of the same size. My plan is to run it in pvc to the brake connection and tie it in there. The current sheathed wire has the white to the bolt on the tongue and the blue to the blue in the old Ucord. Do I keep the new wiring the same? Will I need to bring them inside the trailer to the fuse box? There is no blue wire in the trailer harness (other than the one that was connected to the yellow Ucord wire and works the ceiling light when connected to a battery). What do I do with the white wire in the new Ucord? Take a look at the new drawing. If that doesn’t answer these questions, let us know.

4. When I put the trailer wiring harness wires in the fuse box I assume I bring the new Ucord inside the trailer and put the new Ucord wires opposite them on the other side of the fuse box? Yup!

5. Do I need to have a white ground wire inside the fuse box anywhere? Not really. I would bring it inside and then run it back out to your grounding bolt on the frame just to keep the integrity of the ucord intact. If your ganged fuse box for the 12 volt circuits has a ground blot on it, you can use that to connect the white wires together.

6. When I put the connectors on these wires (the 1/4" female that slides on the fuse box male), do I need to use that heat shrink stuff? I don’t think so. I didn’t on Little Girl. You can, and it won’t hurt anything. But since the connector are inside the trailer, it’s not really necessary. Now, any rings to put on the end of wires that will be outside the trailer, using shrink wrap on would be good extra insurance against weather related problems.

I was able to get a longer Ucord but they didn't have the kind with the plug already on it. I have a plug and will put it together tonight. I find that to be knida a pain. You have my sympathy…

[TG Twinkie]

1. In my trailer wiring I have 2 green wires - one #16 and one #14, twisted together. These two green wires were connected to what used to be the old Ucord (the stub sticking out of the trailer). Am I to put both of the green wires in one fuse slot and then the new Ucord green to the other side of it? Yes; opposite of the new UCord green.

2. There is a #16 black wire in the trailer wire bundle and it was connected to a black wire from the old Ucord. The only black wire I found during all these tests, etc. was the #16 black wire in the curbside taillight that wasn't connected to anything. It still isn't connected to anything - I just capped the end of it and left it in the taillight hole. Should I go ahead and connect it to the black wire in the Ucord? I don't know what it was for. The taillight works with it as it is. Are you sure it's the same black wire? If it is leave it disconnected. If not; try to figure out what it is. But it sounds like you won't need it.
The black wire in the UCord is for charging the battery from the TV; it is not the same wire as the #16 above. The UCord black is probably a #10.
Look closely at Chris's drawing. The UCord black goes to the 30 amp fuse; from the other side of the 30 amp fuse; you will run a #10 black to the buss lug on the Ganged fuse block and another wire out the new hole to the battery + terminal.

3. The sheathed blue/white wire that went to the brakes was brittle and banged up so I got new blue/white wire of the same size. My plan is to run it in pvc to the brake connection and tie it in there. Good plan.

The current sheathed wire has the white to the bolt on the tongue and the blue to the blue in the old Ucord. Do I keep the new wiring the same? Yes

Will I need to bring them inside the trailer to the fuse box? Yes, thru the new hole shown on Chris's drawing. There will also be a #10 black and a #10 white thru the same hole. The black will go to the battery + terminal; The white will go to the frame; Note: You will need a white wire frome the battery to the frame as well.
There is no blue wire in the trailer harness (other than the one that was connected to the yellow Ucord wire and works the ceiling light when connected to a battery).This wire should be connected to the ganged fuse block where it is labeled "lights", cut the yellow off; if the remaining blue is too short; splice on some new blue and connect it to the fuse block.

What do I do with the white wire in the new Ucord? Connect the white wire to the frame/skin; use the mounting bolt on the ganged fuse block; it is your ground from the TV. I'M ASSUMING YOU WILL MOUNT THE FUSE BLOCK TO THE SKIN. If not the white wire should go to the skin or frame.

4. When I put the trailer wiring harness wires in the fuse box I assume I bring the new Ucord inside the trailer and put the new Ucord wires opposite them on the other side of the fuse box? Yes match the colors and note the fuse sizes Chris has called out on the drawing.

5. Do I need to have a white ground wire inside the fuse box anywhere? I think that is what Chris is showing see note "Ground lug" in the upper right corner. I believe he is using one of the mounting bolts for the fuse block for a ground.

6. When I put the connectors on these wires (the 1/4" female that slides on the fuse box male), do I need to use that heat shrink stuff? If they have an insulation collar; NO. If they are bare and there is no risk of them moving and touching each other or ground; NO. If you feel better about using the heat shrink then by all means do it. It can't hurt.


Sounds like you are getting there.

GREAT JOB ON THE NEW DRAWING CHRIS! You beat me posting by seven minutes. It's good that we are giving the same answers.