Electric GlobeTrotter

[goldenchase]

Originally Posted by foobar

Hey goldenchase, how's the project going? Have you done anything new?

Got a couple of questions regarding the TV upgrade: 1) Did you upgrade both TV's? Or just the one in the main lounge area, 2) If you upgraded both TV's, did you use the same TV for both locations?, 3) What changes did you need to make to the wall mount? Can you provide a description and perhaps a photo or two to help me understand what changes were made?

I'm planning ahead for the arrival of my new airstream Globetrotter 27 FB twin. Will be upgrading the TV in the lounge area at a minimum in addition to the installation of a large lithium + solar system.

Same Samsung TV both locations. I just fiddled with the mounts until TV's were well placed. I had to reposition both mount bases to get it all to work.

[goldenchase]

Originally Posted by foobar

I plan to do the same type of DC switch/breaker panel upgrade to my new Globetrotter 27 FB Twin (while arrive mid to late July timeframe) in order to clean up the electrical rats nest under the twin bed as part of the lithium + solar upgrade.

Did the fridge already have power wiring routed to the location of the DC buss bar in the front corner under the twin beds where the inverter is located? Or did you add that wiring as part of your updates?

I'm thinking of using the BlueSea 8403, 13 breaker panel in order to have enough breakers/switches and perhaps leave a couple of spare slots for any future additions. Here is what I'm thinking for breaker size and functional mapping:

50A main DC Panel under fridge
20A Trailer Brakes
20A 12V 7-pin
30A Stabilizer #1
30A Stabilizer #2
30A Tongue Jack
15A Refrigerator
15A Wifi Router (peplink?) + Starlink
5A Weboost + LevelMaster Pro+
5A Roku 1 & 2 (one 2022 Roku Ultra per TV)
5A Hella Marine 12v Fans (2x)
XXX Spare 1
XXX Spare 2

I'm definitely going to have starlink (since I have already purchased the RV service ). Not sure yet if I'm going to install a cellular antenna and cellular modem (and/or a cellular booster) in addition to the starlink service. Are you planning to use either of these cellular services? If so, which ones and why? And what hardware/antennas/coax did you go with?

I retained DC power for the refrigerator through the original AC/DC panel. It would be a good idea to power it from the BlueSea panel since that panel is always hot and not controlled by the "battery switch".

[2012FB]

Originally Posted by foobar

Hey goldenchase, how's the project going? Have you done anything new?

Got a couple of questions regarding the TV upgrade: 1) Did you upgrade both TV's? Or just the one in the main lounge area, 2) If you upgraded both TV's, did you use the same TV for both locations?, 3) What changes did you need to make to the wall mount? Can you provide a description and perhaps a photo or two to help me understand what changes were made?

I'm planning ahead for the arrival of my new airstream Globetrotter 27 FB twin. Will be upgrading the TV in the lounge area at a minimum in addition to the installation of a large lithium + solar system.

I took the bedroom TV out. Replaced the lounge TV:
https://www.airforums.com/forums/f450/tv-upgrade-with-bose-sound-bar-234449.html

[foobar]

Originally Posted by goldenchase

Same Samsung TV both locations. I just fiddled with the mounts until TV's were well placed. I had to reposition both mount bases to get it all to work.

Got it. So you just had to reposition the bases. Did you need to fill any of the old screw holes? Or did the base still hide them?

[foobar]

Originally Posted by goldenchase

I retained DC power for the refrigerator through the original AC/DC panel. It would be a good idea to power it from the BlueSea panel since that panel is always hot and not controlled by the "battery switch".

Thanks. Out of curiosity, why did you decide to bypass the battery switch and always leave the BlueSea panel "hot" ?

I would think with the BlueSea panel being always hot (independent of the condition of the main battery isolation switch) could leave you with items unintentionally powered after you turn off the main power via the isolation switch.

[goldenchase]

Originally Posted by foobar

Thanks. Out of curiosity, why did you decide to bypass the battery switch and always leave the BlueSea panel "hot" ?

I would think with the BlueSea panel being always hot (independent of the condition of the main battery isolation switch) could leave you with items unintentionally powered after you turn off the main power via the isolation switch.

Blue Sea panel directly hooked to batteries via 50 amp CB. It is always hot but the BlueSea panel has switched circuit breakers so I can individually leave circuits on that I want to be hot when battery switch is off.

[foobar]

Originally Posted by goldenchase

I retained DC power for the refrigerator through the original AC/DC panel. It would be a good idea to power it from the BlueSea panel since that panel is always hot and not controlled by the "battery switch".

I forgot to ask what your thought process was when you chose a 50amp breaker on the BlueSea panel for the 12v service to the built-in Airstream DC breaker box under the fridge?

[goldenchase]

Originally Posted by foobar

I forgot to ask what your thought process was when you chose a 50amp breaker on the BlueSea panel for the 12v service to the built-in Airstream DC breaker box under the fridge?

My 2022 GT original wiring ran the + lead from the battery to the "rats nest" 12 volt plastic box, from there the + lead ran to the hot side of the battery solenoid then down to the 12 VDC fuse panel.

When I tore out the "rats nest" I ran a 12VDC cable from the lithium battery bank under the left hand bed through a 50 amp circuit breaker over to the +12VDC bus bar on the BlueSea circuit breaker/switch panel. Then I ran a +12VDC line from the BlueSea panel over to the hot side of the battery solenoid.

The original wiring had a 50 amp fuse at the battery feeding the original +12VDC lead coming into the old 12 Volt plastic box located in the "rats nest" area.

[amschind]

I am also towing with a Powerboost, and am redoing a 1978 Safari 25 with a pure 120/240V electric system running off of lithium (capacity TBD, but likely 9.6kw nominal/6.7 usable) with 800-1200W of solar on the roof (TBD). I'll chime in here as I make progress, but I do have some insight already on the trim levels and towing capacity for the PB.

The effect of higher trims on payload has been beaten to death, but I will point out that the XLT with the 302A or high level trim is a great compromise in cost and weight. The huge thing missing for most people is leather seats, but that is VERY easy to remedy. Leatherseats.com and Katzkin both make excellent seat upholstery replacements (i.e. you pay someone to rip off your old seat upholstery and replace it with these....they aren't seat covers). Katzin is cheaper and offers the balance of vinyl and leather that you get with factory seats. Leatherseats.com offers anything from 100% vinyl to 100% leather to premium leather. I went with leatherseats, but folks seem to really like both of them. Leatherseats also offers built in ventilated and peltier cooled seats which they say they also sell to big OEMs (they don't say which ones). Further, the new nano-ceramic window tint is basically better than anything an OEM or dealer uses and can be had for $1800 on one of these trucks. Folks have installed the parts and gotten factory heated steering wheels on XLT trucks for the '20 and earlier models, but not for the '21
+ yet....not sure if this will come true in the future. Finally, NONE of these trucks have good sound-proofing. I blew about $2200 paying folks to and finally finishing a Dynamat install in my truck (which none of the trims even attempt to replicate). Quiet is one of the hallmarks of a luxury vehicle, and my truck has a quieter interior than a stock Limited.

My payload is 1593, and I wouldn't trade my truck for a Platinum even if the numbers were equivalent. The window tint (I live in Texas, so a truck is a solar oven), leather seats, auto cruise control, LED headlights, top tier info-tainment system, sound-deadening, and a good audio system (which is a whole other kettle of fish) were the most important comfort features for me, and I found that I could replicate or improve upon factory options without causing problematic changes to the vehicle. I got all of that out of an XLT, and if I discount my time, I paid far less than Ford would've charged to do an arguably inferior job. The HDPP F150 remains the best half-ton for towing frame wise, but Ford refuses to pair it with the PB or higher XLT trims, so it remains off the table.

Bottom line: if you want a good compromise between payload and comfort, spend some time thinking about the features that really matter to you. You may find that the XLT 302A with or without a few mods makes for a great compromise.

[goldenchase]

I have now had a Summer season using my highly modified Airstream FB25 Twin. For those new to this thread, it is long, detailing all the modifications to my 2022 FB25 Twin and Ford F-150 Powerboost.

The project started during the Summer of 2021 when I took delivery of a new Ford F-150 PowerBoost with a 7.2 kw ProPower Onboard generator and a 2022 Airstream FB25. Two problems immediately surfaced. The F-150 was loaded and heavy leaving only 1320 lbs of payload. The Airstream FB25 had the second air conditioner so it was as heavy as it can get with 920 lbs on the tongue as delivered and empty.

Without modification a fully loaded FB25 was going to eat up most of my F-150's useful load just by tongue weight alone. Something had to give.

My solution was to remove the entire propane system and appliances while converting the Airstream's electrical system to a Victron Multiplus II based system supporting 400 amp hours of lithium batteries. In addition I joined the Ford's ProPower Onboard generator to the Victron MultiPlus II via an over the road umbilical through a transfer switch to continuously provide 7.2 kw of power to the trailer any time the Ford and Airstream are hooked together.

We travel with two people and a dog. My fully loaded FB25 typically weighs 7,000lbs with a maximum 920 lbs on the hitch. The F-150 and FB25 are coupled using a light weight Blue-Ox Track Pro weight distribution hitch. The F-150/FB25 handles great with the Track Pro hitch. All hooked up and fully loaded the F-150 sits about 1/2" lower in the rear compared to unloaded.

The F-150 PowerBoost with the electric assist motor has a lot of torque. No problem staying with traffic going uphill. On average the F-150 gets about 11.2 mpg at 62 mph, no wind and flat terrain.

In future posts I will cover the performance of all the modifications in the FB25: diesel heat, electric hot water heater, induction cooktop, upgraded microwave, electrical system modifications, refrigerator cooling modifications and upgraded wheels/tires.

Any other questions let me know.

[FredWilma]

Many thanks for posting the detailed report Goldenchase. I have gained much knowledge and inspiration following this thread. I hope you enjoyed your summer of travels and congratulations on this project and a truly awesome trailer.

[WkendWarrior]

Thanks for the incredibly informative and useful thread goldenchase - much appreciated!

I have a seemingly simple question for you, I saw you posted pictures in a separate thread of your Peplink 42G antenna install - do you lower the antenna while in transit?

I’m putting together my system now, and very much like your approach for the pole/mast mount, however I have a Parsec Husky which is larger and I assume heavier than the Peplink, so your reply may not be applicable to my situation - but I might change my situation! Thanks again for all the information.

[goldenchase]

Originally Posted by WkendWarrior

Thanks for the incredibly informative and useful thread goldenchase - much appreciated!

I have a seemingly simple question for you, I saw you posted pictures in a separate thread of your Peplink 42G antenna install - do you lower the antenna while in transit?

I’m putting together my system now, and very much like your approach for the pole/mast mount, however I have a Parsec Husky which is larger and I assume heavier than the Peplink, so your reply may not be applicable to my situation - but I might change my situation! Thanks again for all the information.

No, the Pepwave antenna stays deployed when moving. Looks like the Parsec Husky antenna is a puck antenna designed to only be mounted flush on a roof. This type of installation on the Airstream will compromise performance of a cellular modem. Cellular modems work best when the antenna is line of sight to a tower. Any metal structure (like air conditioning units) between the antenna and the cell tower will degrade performance.

I mounted the Pepwave antenna just high enough to see over the air conditioning units to be line of sight to the cell towers on the horizon.

[WkendWarrior]

Thanks so much for the rapid response! Parsec does offer a pole mounting bracket for the Husky (as well as a magnetic mounting option with a riser), but the antenna mass gives me some pause for the Airstream roof use case.

Appreciate the info and the photo, will mull it over a bit more - maybe the Peplink is the way to go for me as well. Thanks again!

[goldenchase]

Starlink In Motion system now part of the Electric Globetrotter detailed in this thread over on the Computers, Internet and Satellite Forum.

[amschind]

I'm just getting started on a project with very similar goals, but I'm approaching it from a different angle. I won't clutter your thread with my build, but I wanted to say thanks for DOING all of this work and DOCUMENTING it for the rest of us. The internet is forever, and while that phrase often has a negative or embarrassing connotation, it often means that information posted months or years earlier helps people that the author never meets. Thanks again.

[amschind]

Originally Posted by gypsydad

Looking fine not seeing corrosion does not mean there isn't any; lots of years working on aircraft in the Navy...(most every plane/helo they had back in the day) You learn early on, corrosion can be caused by oxidation which happens. As electrons move from the anode (the basic metal) to the cathode (the noble metal), the first metal is vulnerable to oxidation. Insulation can help as long as the metals don't ever touch. The corrosion may or may not be visable. I don't see any "stress points" on these panels, but the metal on aluminum "could" happen with movement/wear, going down the road.

I would be more concerned about "matching" the new aluminum panels on this brand new, "perfectly good" GT, but I can appreciate the "engineering" and the "goal" of the owner for sure. Selling it may take some "splaining" if he decides to move up to a "Classic!"

Random question: There is an A4 Skyhawk near the courthouse in Beeville, Tx. Its aluminum has the absolute worst corrosion that I have ever seen.....aluminum falling apart like dried leaves pressed together. How can this happen?

[Aerowood]

Originally Posted by amschind

Random question: There is an A4 Skyhawk near the courthouse in Beeville, Tx. Its aluminum has the absolute worst corrosion that I have ever seen.....aluminum falling apart like dried leaves pressed together. How can this happen?

It's call exfoliation corrosion. A lot of your aircraft alloys corrode like that, especially 7075-T6

Sent from my Lenovo YT3-X90F using Airstream Forums mobile app

[gypsydad]

Originally Posted by Aerowood

It's call exfoliation corrosion. A lot of your aircraft alloys corrode like that, especially 7075-T6

Sent from my Lenovo YT3-X90F using Airstream Forums mobile app

True that!

[goldenchase]

Fully loaded four corner weights for this project posted to another forum, here.