Question for Matteo if you see this post. On my 23FB, the AC worked fine on my 15 amp garage circuit at home. With my 23D that I installed the Easy Start on, it is tripping the breaker with everything else off in the trailer. I am wondering if I have a problem with my AC or my Easy Start. I need to get a decent clamp ammeter. With a 13.5 AC, what are the amperage draws for the compressor, both without and with the Easy Start? I believe that might be continent on exterior temperature? Also, I'm no engineer and am confused about something. Isn't the initial start of the compressor the 'big' one? Once it's running, why would it stall a few minutes later? Doesn't it draw less amps after initial startup?
I am wondering if I screwed up my learning starts by not having the fridge off, and/or converter/charger, etc. Is it possible to 'reset' the Easy Start and redo the learning steps?
Hello pcskier. Although it appears your first installation into your 23FB was done correctly, the only explanation for the issue your observing on your 23D installation is you installed it incorrectly, likely leaving the compressor wired to hard start still. That happens often with EasyStart installations, when the "wrong" white wire gets chosen to which to splice the ES brown wire. Double check your wiring, or send me some photos via e-mail, and I will assist you further.
Regarding your additional questions, the EasyStart does not reduce the running amps of any compressor. It only reduces the starting amps. The cause of a stall a few minutes later can only be due to voltage collapse in the AC power supply, be it generator or some other source. Voltage collapse causes the compressor to draw more current, thus further collapsing the voltage, thus producing a positive-feedback, runaway condition that ultimately results in the compressor stalling. The EasyStart detects this instantly, disconnecting the compressor, and thus relieving the AC power source, often times so quickly, it makes it seem an observer that nothing was wrong. Fact is, there was something very wrong - the AC power source was inadequate to support the running amps of the compressor. This obviously isn't the fault of the EasyStart.
Hello pcskier. Although it appears your first installation into your 23FB was done correctly, the only explanation for the issue your observing on your 23D installation is you installed it incorrectly, likely leaving the compressor wired to hard start still. That happens often with EasyStart installations, when the "wrong" white wire gets chosen to which to splice the ES brown wire. Double check your wiring, or send me some photos via e-mail, and I will assist you further.
Regarding your additional questions, the EasyStart does not reduce the running amps of any compressor. It only reduces the starting amps. The cause of a stall a few minutes later can only be due to voltage collapse in the AC power supply, be it generator or some other source. Voltage collapse causes the compressor to draw more current, thus further collapsing the voltage, thus producing a positive-feedback, runaway condition that ultimately results in the compressor stalling. The EasyStart detects this instantly, disconnecting the compressor, and thus relieving the AC power source, often times so quickly, it makes it seem an observer that nothing was wrong. Fact is, there was something very wrong - the AC power source was inadequate to support the running amps of the compressor. This obviously isn't the fault of the EasyStart.
Thank you Matteo. I actually just finished watching your installation video again, and learned that the ES only manages starting current, not running current. Do you happen to know, approximately, what the 'running' amperage is for a dometic 13.5 AC unit?
Meanwhile, I will check my wiring and make sure it's right. I realized something else. I have a freezer in my garage, which of course has a compressor that cycles on and off. It might be a coincidence with my previous 23FB that the AC was on when the Freezer was not...and the recent issues with my 23D happened because the AC was running and then the freezer compressor would kick on. Oops. On a 15 amp garage circuit, I imagine it's important, even with Easy Start, to have nothing else running on that circuit, either in the trailer OR in the garage? I believe that might be my problem, given that in the video the startup of the 13.5 Coleman as 17.2 amps. Is the dometic generally about the same? And then the running amps with the dometic ac was tripping the breaker, assuming that the freezer kicked on, probably at least 5 amps or more, putting me way over?
Do you happen to know, approximately, what the 'running' amperage is for a dometic 13.5 AC unit?
...because the AC was running and then the freezer compressor would kick on. Oops. On a 15 amp garage circuit, I imagine it's important, even with Easy Start, to have nothing else running on that circuit, either in the trailer OR in the garage? I believe that might be my problem, given that in the video the startup of the 13.5 Coleman as 17.2 amps. Is the dometic generally about the same? And then the running amps with the dometic ac was tripping the breaker, assuming that the freezer kicked on, probably at least 5 amps or more, putting me way over?
The running amps for a typical Dometic Penguin II 13.5k are about 12A on a cool day, 13A on a moderately warm day, perhaps up to 14A on a hot day. The final starting current for the entire A/C after EasyStart is learned is in the 15-16A range for the 13.5k Dometic Penguin II; quite a dramatic reduction to almost the actual running amps.
The running amps of your freezer plus the running amps of the 13.5k Penguin II will most certainly exceed the circuit breaker capacity of your 15A garage circuit.
The running amps for a typical Dometic Penguin II 13.5k are about 12A on a cool day, 13A on a moderately warm day, perhaps up to 14A on a hot day. The final starting current for the entire A/C after EasyStart is learned is in the 15-16A range for the 13.5k Dometic Penguin II; quite a dramatic reduction to almost the actual running amps.
The running amps of your freezer plus the running amps of the 13.5k Penguin II will most certainly exceed the circuit breaker capacity of your 15A garage circuit.
Hi Mateo,
Long time since last connection; hope your well! I recently tried running my 1500AC and my 1350 AC on my new 28 using my friends new Honda 2200 with the propane conversion done by Genconnex. He has a new 23' and installed the EasyStart I had recommended, which is working fine.
We were up at 6K feet, and it started/ran my 1350 AC fine and I do not have the EasyStart. We ran for 5 min cycling the AC and no issues during that test. We tried with the 1500AC and it started ok, but bogged down the generator when I cycled the AC. Not sure the specs on the 2200 but seems to do fine with the propane and 1350AC without Easystart...remember, I was also at 6k feet.
Have you worked with the new 2200 yet? I love my Champion Dual Fuel running propane for my needs on either AC, but it is a pain to load/unload. I usually try to just run it in bed of my truck. The Honda2200 sure ran nice with the propane connection and was a lot lighter.
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Empty Nesters; Gypsies on the road!
2017 28' Twin Flying Cloud
2017 F250 King Ranch, 4X4, 6.7L, Blue-Ox WDH Summer-Star Valley Ranch RV Resort (Thayne, WY); Winter-Sun City (Georgetown,TX)
Hi gypsydad. All is well, thank you. We have not yet directly worked with the Honda EU2200i, but we have received some first-hand load test data from sea level operation showing that it will maintain a steady-state 18.3A @120VAC (2200W). This of course gives it more capacity at higher altitudes (albeit it reduced) where it can keep the A/Cs running, whereas the Honda EU2000i is drops off to the point where it can no longer keep the A/C running, even though EasyStart can start it.
Thanks, is this enough to run the AC? I would keep all other use to a minimum.
Yes, the pigtail converter works...also good for when your plugged in at home....least that's where I use mine also.
My limited experience last summer was with my 13500 AC; it worked fine with my friends new Honda 2200 with the Genconnex propane conversion, but I only ran/cycled it about 5 minuets. I was also at around 5k feet altitude.... no obvious issues with running the 13500AC; I tried it with the 15000AC and although it did start, the generator strained, so I'm quite sure you would need an Easystart if you want to run that 1500 AC. Others who own this unit please chime in.
Bottom line; if you get an Easystart on your 15K AC should be fine with any of the Honda/Yamaha 2000 generators, and especially the new Honda 2200. I do not have Easystart but I do have a Champion Dual Fuel which works for my needs.
As I have stated before, I like the "idea" of owning 2 -45lb generators from Honda or Yamaha for the weight factor, coupled with propane conversion. That gives flexibility of carrying around only one at a time if your not needing AC, or moving around one at a time, vs moving around a 95lb larger capacity generator...which I have to deal with now with my Dual Fuel...just more money!
__________________
Empty Nesters; Gypsies on the road!
2017 28' Twin Flying Cloud
2017 F250 King Ranch, 4X4, 6.7L, Blue-Ox WDH Summer-Star Valley Ranch RV Resort (Thayne, WY); Winter-Sun City (Georgetown,TX)
Brown, White and Orange wires connected fine and box mounted..
3 questions:
Confusion regarding the black wire. My only blue wires (directions say black goes to the blue one of two ways) go into a 6 way plug on the board. They both seem to be labeled furnace.
What to do with the black wire???
In removing the PTCR and start capacitor, the pic shows the last white wire from there shares a post with a black wire. Should I just snip the white wire and put a butt connector on there? Assuming the black wire still need to be connected..
PS: the yellow wire was removed and capped when I started. It comes from the bottom of the fan with I think 4 other wires. Any ideas on. That?
I think I have it figured out... looking for confirmation from someone I hope...
One of these two black wires in the green circle (top right of photo) goes to the compressor. I think that is the “blue” wire that the “easy start black wire” connects too.
The green box with the scribble I should just cut off and put a butt connector on the end to prevent a short.
Followed black wire from compressor and connected to that one per instructions.
Clipped and capped other wire mentioned.
Ran 5 start cycles and it’s working fine!
Still don’t know why the yellow wire is cut and capped. It runs to the external fan motor.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Planenut
I think I have it figured out... looking for confirmation from someone I hope...
One of these two black wires in the green circle (top right of photo) goes to the compressor. I think that is the “blue” wire that the “easy start black wire” connects too.
The green box with the scribble I should just cut off and put a butt connector on the end to prevent a short.
I have a 1973 Argosy with the original Armstrong AC unit. I found this post/answer, but the website has been updated. The link doesn't go to the "how to" diagram anymore, and I couldn't locate it. Could you provide a new link? Thanks so much for any help with this.
How do you hookup the 2200 generator with 30amp cord to run AC with generator? I’m shopping now for generator and I have never used one.
Instead of plugging into the campground pedestal, you plug into the generator. My power cord reaches the tailgate. Some generators including Champion, already have a 30 amp RV receptacle installed. Others, like Honda have a three prong twist lock. There's a simple adapter or dog bone to go from twist lock to RV plug.
Buy a quality generator and don't worry about the plug.
I have a 1973 Argosy with the original Armstrong AC unit. I found this post/answer, but the website has been updated. The link doesn't go to the "how to" diagram anymore, and I couldn't locate it. Could you provide a new link? Thanks so much for any help with this.
Hi Lea. The links for the Armstrong wiring diagrams that we still have can be found at this link in the EasyStart Knowledge Bank. If you need the general "how to" guide that used to be included in the box, then use the old one which is attached. It's out of date, but the steps and wiring are still the same. Hope this helps.
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