Dumb Question - Battery

[RumTex]

Sorry for this question but I cannot find the answer in reading a number of posts. If you plan to use only shore power, do you need a battery? We are in process of buying an airstream and removed the solar option but dealer is still including a lithium battery for $4k. I read that factory doesn’t supply so wondering if this is just an unnecessary dealer add on??

Appreciate the help!

[Boxite]

Yes, you need a battery…but you don’t need expensive lithium….. inexpensive lead/acid is quite sufficient. It is needed to supply the trailer brakes in case of accidental disconnect of your 7-way plug or if the trailer disconnects from your vehicle.
The battery is needed also to supply power to the LP leak detector which operates full time whether connected to shore power or not.

The battery is also a “shock absorber” for the converter-system on-board the Airstream. (Think of a battery, not only as a basic power source, but also as a large capacitor that “smooths out” voltage surges.)

Yes. You need a battery. Tell the lithium salesman to “take a hike’ if he tries to push that unnecessary, over-the-top $4K off on you.

[ITSNO60]

Not to mention you can get a decent lithium battery for less than 1/8 of what they want to charge you, or even the top of the line Battleborn for under 1K and installation is only a few minutes job. If it were me I would get a flooded lead acid as suggested or an AGM, couple hundred bucks.
Maybe part of the $4K includes a different converter for lithium charging? Or do all the new ones have selectable charging profiles?

[RumTex]

Thank you very much for the reply. I appreciate it!

[RumTex]

Thank you!

[Silver Ninja]

Another reason a battery is a good idea is when campground power goes out you can still run the fridge, lights, stove, etc. Power does go out from time to time

[Atwebs]

Yes, aside from all the other reasons, it is really nice to be able to light the lights BEFORE you get completely plugged in or while you are on the road.

And although you can use a plain old lead acid RV battery, you might want to look into an AGM battery. We've used lead acid and they are a pain to keep "ready" as individual cells die. Even with every charger on the market (trickle, battery tender, battery minder...)and checking water levels monthly, we had to replace them every year. We now have AGM -a little more expensive, but going on 5 years at this point without a hiccup.

[Trons4u]

For sure that is way to much for lithium battery. I bought 3 100Ah Battle Borns for less than that.
You didn't say what you were looking at buying. Does it have a 12v or propane fridge. Yes, you need a battery for the ancillary stuff like sparking the water heater & fridge. But yeah, if you're just strickley using it in campground w/power, you're fine with a regular AGM battery. No maintenance with that, unlike the regular lead acid.

[Wazbro]

Originally Posted by ITSNO60

Not to mention you can get a decent lithium battery for less than 1/8 of what they want to charge you, or even the top of the line Battleborn for under 1K and installation is only a few minutes job. If it were me I would get a flooded lead acid as suggested or an AGM, couple hundred bucks.
Maybe part of the $4K includes a different converter for lithium charging? Or do all the new ones have selectable charging profiles?

The stock converter has auto select (an unreliable system for lithium use) that the dealers believe they don't need to do anything with.

Another important reason for batteries in the new trailers is the 12 volt compressor fridge and being able to run it while towing, with the power needed for the fridge it might not get enough voltage through the 7-pin connection.

[jnm30327]

I also recommend AGMs. Conventional lead acid batteries will require water addition if used very much. AGMs do not require any maintenance.

[tomreid]

What are the specs recommended for an AGM battery for 2015 Bambi Sport 22FB

[Hermes]

Originally Posted by Boxite

The battery is also a “shock absorber” for the converter-system on-board the Airstream. (Think of a battery, not only as a basic power source, but also as a large capacitor that “smooths out” voltage surges.)

This is not often mentioned but true. I often put the battery in Store mode when connected to shore power (to avoid having my OEM one stage converter cook my batteries) but eventually my converter conked out, but before that it must have been producing bad 12V power because my Dometic thermostat was behaving and ceased to work. After doing all that is recommended to ensure proper communication from the thermostat to the AC control board, and having that checked by Can Am RV, it turns out that when the Dometic system is connected to the battery bank, all is good.

So your comment about the battery being a buffer, ensuring quality 12V power to the trailer's 12V circuit confirms my experience.

My new converter is a 3 stage "intelligent" converter so there is no danger of overcharging the batteries, and since I have solar (500W) I can run off the batteries for days. So batteries are an essential component of the trailer.

[davhill]

I have a 2017 Sport 22FB. I want to upgrade the (dead) Interstate SRM24 (lead-acid) battery to AGM. Is AGM a direct dropin, or do I have issues with the converter or other components? Thx

[ROBERT CROSS]

^^^^^^^^

It would be a direct drop-in for the same size battery, lead/acid, AGM have the same 'group' sizes.

Bob
🇺🇸

[davhill]

Thank you, Bob.
I don't actually mean physical dropin. I understand a group 24 AGM will fit the battery box. What I'm trying to ask is "does an AGM battery have any internal/voltage/electronic/performance difference for which I need an upgraded converter .. or any other constraint? Can I swap out a flooded battery for an AGM without worry?

[ROBERT CROSS]

Originally Posted by davhill

Thank you, Bob.
I don't actually mean physical dropin. I understand a group 24 AGM will fit the battery box. What I'm trying to ask is "does an AGM battery have any internal/voltage/electronic/performance difference for which I need an upgraded converter .. or any other constraint? Can I swap out a flooded battery for an AGM without worry?

No...Our Lifelines had an 11yr run in 'Cloudsplitter' with two different converter/chargers and now reside in the basement as an emergency power supply for the sump pump with a battery tender 'charger'.

Bob
🇺🇸

[Boxite]

I believe Robert Cross MEANT to say “YES”….to your second question…”Can I swap out a flooded battery for an AGM without worry?”

Not on my AS…but in my little Cessnas….we’ve done that for a couple decades. All the hype and promo’s to “get a XYZ-brand battery maintainer”…. because the AGM mfr says it needs to have some sort of special charging program…is B.S.

(In case you’re curious as to how I can make such a bold statement in opposition to the widespread belief that the batt-mfr’s don’t lie and know more about their product than a common idiot who sank his boat money in an airplane… Here’s my support:

Virtually EVERY little part…no matter how large or small…in an airplane is required by Federal Aviation Regulations (FAR) to meet strict standards.
When a replacement-part is made by anyone other than the OEM of that certified part…and if that part is sold as a direct-replacement of the OEM part… FARs require it to be 100% compatible with the existing (OEM) part it replaces.

Although standard aircraft parts are almost universally of better/higher grade than common hardware/automotive/marine/etc parts….. not all basic operating systems are significantly different than automotive. An example is the 1953 Cessna 170 I own…which has a 14 volt electrical system like many automobiles.
In 1953 that consisted of a 25A lead/acid battery connected to a common DC generator, supported by a common “vibrating-points” regulator. Pretty crude stuff (aviation-wise speaking)…. but quite dependable. And Reliable.

(Little-known FACT…which most Pilots don’t even realize): Aircraft batteries are NOT for the purpose of starting the engine. Although that is a good use for them…and although it is a Great Test of the battery’s health for the upcoming flight… Starting is not the purpose of the battery.
The purpose of the aircraft battery is as a Source of Emergency Electrical Power in the event of failure of generated electricity.. If one is flying at night and in stormy weather ..or simply above an undercast… and that generator Fails…. the pilot will need to Get Down somewhere before his instruments, lighting, and radios all conk-out from lack of electricity. If an instrument approach to an airport is necessary and cannot be made without those radios and instruments and navigational equipment…. it most likely will end in disaster.
The BATTERY is the source of essential electrical power to get the airplane on the ground…. And Aircraft Batteries…originally lead/acid batteries (built to very high structural standards…yes… but still pretty agricultural lead/acid, nonetheless)…. are what is going to save pilot, passengers, and airplane.

When AGM batteries became available to owners of these aircraft, the mfr’s of those AGMs were required to Certify in accordance with FARs that their batteries were 100% compatible with the lead/acid battery being replaced..
That, of course, means that the new, magical AGM must be compatible with the 1950’s technology clattering, vibrating-points regulator and noisy, heavy, carbon-brush/commutator-equipped D.C. generator invented in the 1860s by Faraday and installed in NYC in 1879 by Edison. Pretty Crude, huh?

Sooo…. it’s pretty ridiculous for AGM battery mfr’s to try to convince us we need to spend Big $ on special, magic chargers to “properly maintain” their new AGM…which was Certified under Threat of Penalty to meet FARs which force it to work exactly like lead/acids coupled to clanky on-board charging systems without harm!

If you got excess money in your pocket…spend it on a mistress or a boy-toy or whiskey or another airplane or a magical/mysterious battery charger. Your choice.

But “worry” about swapping out my lead/acid for an AGM…?

What? Me Worry? -Alfred E. Newman


==========

PS: Why would an owner want to replace his Lead/Acid with AGM anyway?
Because of the Acid…which splashes and vaporizes a tiny bit even on healthy batteries…and contributes to serious corrosion…not a good thing, especially in aluminum airplanes. Even tho’ aircraft have their batterys mounted inside acid-resistant, closed, vented, and drained special battery boxes…. those boxes are Expen$ive to replace when they corrode. (the one in my ‘53 Cessna costs $1200 to replace…plus labor. It’s rivetted to the firewall.).

I can’t replace it with that $6 plastic battery box from WalMart because that plastic box isn’t certified to meet FARs.

Absorbed Glass Matt (AGM) batteries “absorb” the electrolyte and are better at keeping it inside the battery instead of venting it to the compartment.

That’s why.

[ROBERT CROSS]

^^^^^^^^^^^

He be correct...YES was on my mind and no on my fingers.

Bob
🇺🇸

[Kawboy01]

Yes, you.do need a battery but you sure don't need a $4k battery!! I don't know what they are trying to sell you but that would be a BIG No Thank You. Ok back to do you need a battery and short answer is yes, while you are traveling between locations it provides the 12 volts for your front jack, if you have powered stab jacks, 12 volt fridge, CO/Propane detector all.your.interior lights, water pump, furnace, ceiling fan(s) and breakaway brake power, power to awning if.you have one..you have many things that can be powered by the 12v battery (or converter when plugged in) AS others have said you don't need a mega battery, prior to AS having dealers supply batteries, our 21GT27FBQ came with 2 80Ah AGM Lifeline. We.have since switched.to Lithium but you could go with AGM or Std. Flooded Lead Acid batteries. I think the battery boxes are sized for group 24 batteries. Don't letthat dealer tell you than you need a $4k battery.

[DubleDeuce]

Yes, you NEED a battery in this vehicle for a couple of important reasons but 4K IS a bit over the top. A good sealed case OPTIMA or an AGM type will serve MOST effectively. https://www.renogy.com/blog/what-is-an-agm-battery/

BUT, if you change your mind later and need to go back to on board HOUSE power you must insure that the vehicle you buy has enough battery SPACE to accommodate the installation of at LEAST two batteries. The lack of battery space could be a bummer if you are going to sell it and the buyer wants to do dry camping.

Darrow...for the Prosecution