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Old 05-06-2022, 08:53 PM   #21
Rivet Master
 
2007 27' Safari FB SE
NW Oregon in a nice spot , Oregon
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 725
Very interesting see what folks determine as "
drop in". All good learning from others.
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Old 05-08-2022, 09:23 AM   #22
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2016 Interstate Lounge Ext
Portland , Oregon
Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 13
lithium batteries

Hello,
I did a lithium upgrade from AGM a couple of years ago using AM Solar. They built a special box inside my Interstate for the batteries, rather than using the box under the van. Too cold in winter or mountains for lithium. System works well, just sacrifices a bit of storage. They've provided great service.
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Old 05-08-2022, 10:05 AM   #23
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2018 25' Flying Cloud
2007 25' International CCD FB
2006 23' Safari SE
Grand Junction , Colorado
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 63
Images: 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by MemphisRebel View Post
We are looking to upgrade from our 2 AGM batteries to 2 100ah lithium. They will be stored in the outside battery box where the AGMs are now. I have been researching on this site and others and think I have all my bases covered, but want to make sure I am not missing anything before I start clicking "Add to Cart" on expensive equipment. We would like to upgrade our refrigerator from the electric/propane model to a 12v compressor model and also give us more power for boondocking. I understand this setup will not power the A/Cs and have no problem lugging the generator when that is needed. I just want a bit more juice with the 12v fridge and for electronics to get us through a night or two without power.


The current setup: 2021 Flying Cloud 30FB Bunk with factory solar package, 2x90W zamp panels on roof. Converter is WFCO Model WF-9855LiS with the "Lithium Switch". Solar controller is Victron MPPT 150/35. Truck is 2020 Ford F250 Super Duty 6.7L Diesel with optional 397amp alternator upgrade.


My goal is to do the following, which I think would get me where I need to be:


1) Add one more 90W Zamp solar panel to the roof and plug it into the one unused port on the roof box. I believe this will match the two panels that came from the factory.


2) Replace the two AGM batteries in the battery box with two of these LifeBlue 100ah batteries. As these will be in the battery box I was going to get the low temperature models. We are in Memphis, TN and do not get bad winters, but occasionally will be using the trailer below freezing.


3) Run a jumper wire through the Lithium Switch on the Converter so that it switches to a Lithium charging profile:


4) Switch the dial on the solar control to 7, which the manual states is the setting for Lithium


5) Pull the 30A fuse on the truck for charging through the 7-way connector - I am wondering if I even need to do this? I do have the 397amp alternator package from Ford and LifeBlue's website states "ANY alternator can be used without the need for a special regulator or DC-DC converter"


Is there anything I might be missing? As I understand it the LifeBlue batteries give bluetooth connectivity so that I could monitor them from my phone. This would give me 270 watts of rooftop solar for 200ah of lithium batteries. The converter and solar charge controller would be set to lithium charging profile. Thanks to any and all for advice.
Good idea to add the solar panel. I wouldn’t worry able the truck, your solar panels will be charging your batteries while you are towing. Add two Battle Born batteries instead. They are pretty much fool proof for beginners like us. I added two Battle Born 75 ah batteries and have no problems at all. Also Airstream installs Battle Born probably for the same reason I just mentioned. I am not sponsored by BB, I just want the best hassle free batteries.
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Old 05-08-2022, 12:11 PM   #24
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2021 16' Caravel
Stuart , Florida
Join Date: Sep 2020
Posts: 52
I found this on Airstream Colonial NJ web site. Video is very informative to your project of a "drop in" system. Seems you can get 2 x 130 amps in the Airstream battery box.


https://www.colonialairstream.com/lithionics-batteries


Bob
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Old 05-08-2022, 01:58 PM   #25
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2022 19' Caravel
Currently Looking...
Norman , Oklahoma
Join Date: Aug 2021
Posts: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by MemphisRebel View Post
We are looking to upgrade from our 2 AGM batteries to 2 100ah lithium. They will be stored in the outside battery box where the AGMs are now. I have been researching on this site and others and think I have all my bases covered, but want to make sure I am not missing anything before I start clicking "Add to Cart" on expensive equipment. We would like to upgrade our refrigerator from the electric/propane model to a 12v compressor model and also give us more power for boondocking. I understand this setup will not power the A/Cs and have no problem lugging the generator when that is needed. I just want a bit more juice with the 12v fridge and for electronics to get us through a night or two without power.


The current setup: 2021 Flying Cloud 30FB Bunk with factory solar package, 2x90W zamp panels on roof. Converter is WFCO Model WF-9855LiS with the "Lithium Switch". Solar controller is Victron MPPT 150/35. Truck is 2020 Ford F250 Super Duty 6.7L Diesel with optional 397amp alternator upgrade.


My goal is to do the following, which I think would get me where I need to be:


1) Add one more 90W Zamp solar panel to the roof and plug it into the one unused port on the roof box. I believe this will match the two panels that came from the factory.


2) Replace the two AGM batteries in the battery box with two of these LifeBlue 100ah batteries. As these will be in the battery box I was going to get the low temperature models. We are in Memphis, TN and do not get bad winters, but occasionally will be using the trailer below freezing.


3) Run a jumper wire through the Lithium Switch on the Converter so that it switches to a Lithium charging profile:


4) Switch the dial on the solar control to 7, which the manual states is the setting for Lithium


5) Pull the 30A fuse on the truck for charging through the 7-way connector - I am wondering if I even need to do this? I do have the 397amp alternator package from Ford and LifeBlue's website states "ANY alternator can be used without the need for a special regulator or DC-DC converter"


Is there anything I might be missing? As I understand it the LifeBlue batteries give bluetooth connectivity so that I could monitor them from my phone. This would give me 270 watts of rooftop solar for 200ah of lithium batteries. The converter and solar charge controller would be set to lithium charging profile. Thanks to any and all for advice.

I want to do the same, but why do you have to run a jumper wire if there is a switch for lithium?
Thanks
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Old 05-08-2022, 08:00 PM   #26
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Germantown , TN
Join Date: Feb 2021
Posts: 31
Quote:
Originally Posted by bambootrout View Post
I want to do the same, but why do you have to run a jumper wire if there is a switch for lithium?
Thanks
It says “Lithium Switch” on it but it is not a toggle switch. It is on the back of the converter and has an input for two wires. Running a jumper wire that loops between them completes a circuit and switches it to a lithium charging profile. I guess they call it a switch because if you wanted you could put an inline switch on the jumper wire that would allow you to toggle lithium mode on and off. It does not come from the factory with a switch installed, though, just the label.
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Old 05-09-2022, 06:17 AM   #27
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2020 27' Globetrotter
STAMFORD , Connecticut
Join Date: Oct 2019
Posts: 65
In late 2019, I installed 2x200AH LifeBlue batteries in the front compartment of my 2020 Globetrotter 27FBT.

The battery box was re-purposed to store other stuff.
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Old 05-13-2022, 09:11 PM   #28
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2022 27' Flying Cloud
Sparta , NJ
Join Date: Apr 2022
Posts: 21
Quote:
Originally Posted by MemphisRebel View Post
I reached out directly to LifeBlue asking them if they could go in an Airstream battery box. They sent me the following:


"Batteries must be installed in a dry compartment where there is no exposure to direct sunlight, water, road spray, debris or where any item can contact the battery terminals. Each battery must be installed upright and securely fastened to avoid any movement of battery, connections, wiring or corrected devices."


Seems to me like a battery box would work as long as they are securely fastened. I was also going to replace the twist latch on the battery box with something like this just to keep the contents of the battery box away from prying eyes. I know it isn't a heavy duty lock but it would at least prevent a casual thief from seeing inside.
Just my 2 cents, go with the Group 27 Heated Battleborn's. They fit perfectly with room to spare. They are waterproof, better warranty, and can keep in the box all year long with no worries. I just did your exact upgrade but also added the Victron Smartshunt and upgraded the MPPT to the BT model. I have the entire thread details here.

https://www.airforums.com/forums/f44...de-233466.html

Use the 6AWG wire pairs that run to the battery now as your negative feed back to the negative bus bar in the unit thats attached to the 12vdc panel and the positive to the 12vdc distribution panel as it currently is set. This way whatever you power outside such as the plug for portable solar panel connection or any outside connections for that matter you capture adding a negative bus in the box and get the data through the shunt . Then use the 4awg wire pair set on the inverter for your battery connections making sure the negative goes to the load side of the shunt and then 4 awg on battery side of shunt direct to batteries. I am actually in process of adding a second 2000w Progressive Dynamics Inverter to run the other half of the outlets in our 2022 27 FBT (galley, bathroom, bedroom, and frig) but have to run another set of 2/0 wire to the battery box and rearrange some of the other wire I just setup. Then also feed another set of 14/2 romex to the breaker panel from the new inverter which will be in the same spot with the other electronics now. Should be cool. The 6 awg wire running out their now I will use for adding a Victron Orion DC to DC charger. Avoiding the full blown Multiplex II and 4 inside battery upgrade until I know the kind of camping we will be doing. So this way I can essentially power everything in the unit selectively off each inverter. I just won't be able to power A/C units or Microwave. I also am adding another 3 x 90w Zamp panels on the roof for a total of 450w plus have a 230w suitcase if we want to use to plug in at the tongue.

Oh and I disconnected wire #4 on the 7 way plug Airstream side in the 12vdc distribution panel to safegaurd the TV alternator even though I have confirmed you can leave it alone. The amount of charge it will provide the lithiums is negligible. There is too much voltage drop from your TV to the Airstream in the small 10 awg wire that you don't have to worry about backfeed to damage your alternator. I was more concerned about parasitic draw if we were towing along and I left the 7 way plugged in when we rested. So for now until I get the DC to DC charger in will rely on the solar to charge the batteries as we are driving. Should be enough but will add the DC to DC anyway as I continue the upgrade project.
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