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Old 08-05-2019, 08:25 AM   #1
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1973 29' Ambassador
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Dometic Brisk Air 2 Part Question

First off, Knobs. Because of the curve of the ceiling(I think)the housing does not quite let the knobs reach the shaft on controls. Anyone else experience this? Solutions?


Second--it is a 13500. I also have a 2000 watt electric water heater, small fridge, a couple lights. Should 30 amps be able to handle the load? I have just put it in its permanent location and after showering, it's tripping at the pole. AC ran all night last night and damn near froze us out without tripping, so I'm thinking maybe it won't handle the WH and AC at the same time? Could it be a weak breaker?

Thanks!
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Old 08-05-2019, 08:46 AM   #2
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You are on the ragged edge when the AC is running probably 11-12A and the water heater is running and it is probably drawing close to 15A. Also the fridge is taking say 3A and the power converter for the batteries is probably taking a few amps. Run WH on gas or shut off the AC for an hour. Same for microwave or space heater.



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Old 08-05-2019, 08:54 AM   #3
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I'm all Electric shore power. Hoping to find the magic recipe....
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Old 08-05-2019, 11:40 AM   #4
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You could convert to 50A power. You would need a 220V breaker panel.



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Old 08-05-2019, 12:19 PM   #5
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Does anyone sell a small(like 5 breaker) pre-wired panel? I have done some searching, but can't seem to find anything.

The pole I'm on is 30 amp, but I think the park would upgrade.
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Old 08-05-2019, 02:34 PM   #6
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This will upgrade the pole if they can get some at least 6-3 Romex with ground run to it.



https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1





This would work inside the trailer

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Industrial...91&s=hi&sr=1-2


The park would be spending a lot of money to upgrade their power.



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Old 08-06-2019, 10:17 AM   #7
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If you can un plug your water heater, run a separate 12gauge extension cord to the 20amp receptacle on the campground power pole. That should do it.
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Old 08-06-2019, 11:48 AM   #8
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A lot depends on the quality of the power source. Older campgrounds can be a problem. On a good 30 amp source, I can run both A/C's (I have easy Starts in both) but not much else.

I was just in a older RV campground with a 30 amp connection but all I could receive was about 25 amps. Often the problem is the connection inside the post. I don't know any RV park that routinely go to each post and inspect and tighten the connections. Same problem with open grounds. Just had that happen too.

I have a Southwire EMS surge protector with remote wireless monitor. I know exactly how much current each device uses and the quality of the power source.
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Old 08-06-2019, 12:49 PM   #9
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What is the circuit feeding the 30 amp Pedestal?

For pedestals that have both a 30 amp and a 20 amp outlet, but no 50 amp outlet, what do you imagine they size for the circuit feeding the pedestal?

Similarly for a pedestal with a 50, 30 and a 20, what do you imagine they have for the power to the pedestal?
And would they normally put the 20 and 30 on different phases?

Also how many pedestals might be on the same branch circuit?
that is: how many 30 amp pedestals share the same branch circuit?

Anyone been involved with the planning of distribution network within a campground?
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Old 08-06-2019, 07:37 PM   #10
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I have seen some pedestals with 30 and 20 amp capacity when I use my 50 amp cheater "Y". The "Y" allows you to plug into a 30-20 amp pedestal and run both TT 50 amp legs at the same time. You still have to be judicious about loads on the each leg. Pretty handy in a site when you need two A/Cs, but only a 30 and 20 amp socket is available. Of course there needs to be 50 amps to the box. My cheater came with a pair of 30 to 20 amp socket/plug combinations, but I have not used that much through the years. In that case the box would have to have 40 amps available. Not all parks are wired the same and some not according to code. I can imagine how many varied distribution systems there are out there. That is a good reason to check polarity and grounding at the pedestal before powering up your rig.
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Old 08-07-2019, 06:12 AM   #11
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Yeah you can get in trouble if the box is only rated for 30A total. You can't plug the trailer into the 30A and then expect to get 20A out of the other socket. It is usually either/or not both.



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Old 08-07-2019, 11:34 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KingJason View Post
First off, Knobs. Because of the curve of the ceiling(I think)the housing does not quite let the knobs reach the shaft on controls. Anyone else experience this? Solutions?


Second--it is a 13500. I also have a 2000 watt electric water heater, small fridge, a couple lights. Should 30 amps be able to handle the load? I have just put it in its permanent location and after showering, it's tripping at the pole. AC ran all night last night and damn near froze us out without tripping, so I'm thinking maybe it won't handle the WH and AC at the same time? Could it be a weak breaker?

Thanks!

As others have stated you're right on the edge. I have meters built into my breaker panel in my trailer that show amps and volts, and my 13500 Dometic draws around 11-13 amps.


The current draw varies depending on fan speed, outside temperature, and voltage (lower voltage = more amps, opposite of what you'd get with, say, a water heater).


A 2000 watt water heater will draw around 17 amps. So you are very, very close to 30 amps. You could try running the air conditioner fan on low, which will reduce the current draw somewhat.



Otherwise, the cheapest way for you to solve this is to put a smaller element in your water heater. 1500 watt and 1000 watt elements are readily available.
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Old 08-07-2019, 01:12 PM   #13
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FYI you can run the water heater for a long time on a bottle of propane if you don't leave it on 24/7. You have to adapt to what you have. You are not going to get more than 30A out of that plug and there are no cheats.



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