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Old 09-19-2019, 11:26 AM   #41
Half a Rivet Short
 
2017 30' Classic
Carlisle , Pennsylvania
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 9,056
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fred L View Post
Thanks Bob. Being non electrically gifted, a few questions (some have nothing to do with electric tho )

The check for AC is pretty simple:

Pull the cover off the breaker panel (with the power off)
* check
Check for voltage at the power post
* by power post, assuming the outlet in my garage that i plug the trailer into ? If so, checked and that is all good.
Check for voltage at the trailer end of the power cable
* not sure how to do that as the male end that goes in the outlet is quite different than the female end that connects at the trailer. And probes on my DMM dont fit in the slots on the female end from what I can tell. I did make the attempt to try this to limit the scope before calling Randy.
(turn post off, connect cable, turn power back on)
Check for voltage at the input to the main breaker(s)
* just checking, but assume this is still AC. Will need to figure out what setting on my dmm. For "input", hot black wire going into the back of the 30amp breaker? and do I need to find the mating white neutral ? or just touch the bar? Assuming if this works, then all should be good with the power cable and no need to test that?
Check for voltage at the output(s) of the main breakers
* Ok, "uncle" (meaning i give up ) Bob.
Check for voltage at the output of the breaker that goes to the converter
* Ditto to above
Check for voltage at the input to the converter (if you can get at it ..).
* Ditto to above
In each case you are looking for roughly 120V on the DVM between hot and neutral. Ground to neutral should be near zero volts if you want to check that as well. ( = 10V is to much).
*Will report back once i get the hang of this

Once the checks are done, power down and put the cover back on the breaker panel.

Bob
Hi

You check at the end of the cord by putting the leads of the DVM into the end of the cord with the far end plugged into the supply. If it shows voltage you probably are ok. If it shows zero, your cord or adapter is shot. If your DVM doesn't have small enough probes ... you need new probes

Since everything we are checking for here is AC, that's how the DVM gets set. One lead goes to the neutral bar or wire (it does not matter which lead of the DVM). The other lead goes to the point you are measuring.

Most breaker boxes are set up with a main breaker (it wold be a tandem breaker if you have a 50A trailer) that feeds the main bus bars in the box. When those breaker(s) are off, there is no voltage feed to any of the other breakers in the box. The reason is pretty simple - you *could* pull more current trough all the sub breakers than the line will allow. You normally don't so it all works out.

To check the main breaker(s), you need to check that there is voltage in the box when they are on.

Yes, this goes through every possible step in the trail from the wall to the converter. That's how troubleshooting is done. The steps aren't hard, but there are a lot of them. There are a lot of links in the chain. Indeed if you have voltage "one step further" in the chain, then the previous link was ok as well.

Bob
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Old 09-19-2019, 11:59 AM   #42
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2006 23' Safari SE
Lexington , Kentucky
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Exclamation Caution

When dealing with AC house (120) voltage you have to be VERY careful. There is enough power to kill you, especially if the path is across your heart. Please be very careful. It's probably a good idea to have someone close by to turn off the main power in case your fingers accidentally slide down the probe and touch the ends.
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2004 4Runner SE
Most of us don't know exactly what we want, but we're pretty sure we don't have it. -Alfred E. Neuman
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Old 09-19-2019, 02:06 PM   #43
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2007 23' Safari SE
Annandale , New Jersey
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Thanks Bob and duly noted Rich. Typically I am fine with AC as have done a lot of work in the house (which was then checked by my good friend who was an electrician). The part that throws me is the DC and onversion to it.
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Old 09-19-2019, 02:07 PM   #44
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Couch looks good Rich. Much better than the mustard colored fabric that is original on mine.
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Old 09-20-2019, 10:50 AM   #45
Half a Rivet Short
 
2017 30' Classic
Carlisle , Pennsylvania
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fred L View Post
Thanks Bob and duly noted Rich. Typically I am fine with AC as have done a lot of work in the house (which was then checked by my good friend who was an electrician). The part that throws me is the DC and onversion to it.
Hi

AC goes into the converter / charger and DC comes out of the converter charger. That's the only point where AC to DC conversion happens on a normal trailer. It is no different than plugging in the charger for your phone. Wall power goes in one side and DC comes out the other side.

On the DC side you have power and ground. There is no neutral involved. On a typical AS, both the power (often red, but sometimes not) and the ground ( often black, but again sometimes not) get routed. In an automotive application, the ground side might get tied to the chassis. With the combo of steel in the frame and aluminum in the skin, AS is not real big on return via chassis for heavy loads these days.

Assuming you have a normal / modern DVM, setting to AC and trying to read DC will get you a zero volt reading. Same with setting to DC and trying to read AC. Nothing will be damaged in the DVM.

Setting the DVM to current or to ohms and trying to read voltage gets you into the "not recommended" category. Hopefully all you would do is blow a fuse in the DVM but who knows. Best not to try that.

Bob
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Old 09-23-2019, 04:06 PM   #46
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Thanks Bob. Back from a long weekend, but hot today. May try and take a look in the morning.
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Old 10-30-2019, 01:05 PM   #47
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2007 23' Safari SE
Annandale , New Jersey
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Regret my delay in responding, but lifes been busy. Finally had a chance to check out the electric. Learned a bit more about the DMM and tested the breaker in the trailer, no power, so worked back from there.
Also learned that my DMM has covers over the long thin prongs, which allowed me to test the female plug on the cord plugged into my garage outlet, and it was dead.

Took apart the plug and a wire had pulled out of the connection.

All back together and working properly. A number of alternative causes would have taken a lot of work and added cost. Glad this was as simple as it was and I learned in the process.

Took the trailer to inside storage and a good feeling knowing that problem is taken care of.
Thanks to all for your insights and assistance.
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Old 10-30-2019, 01:40 PM   #48
Half a Rivet Short
 
2017 30' Classic
Carlisle , Pennsylvania
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Hi

Glad it's fixed and at a near zero cost !!!!

Bob
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