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Old 08-08-2016, 12:23 PM   #1
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2017 30' Flying Cloud
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Constant drain on my batteries

I have a 2015 23FB International and after 18 months of ownership, the batteries are toast. According to when they were installed at the factory the batteries are approximately 2 + years old.

I purchased two new Batteries from Batteries Plus this weekend and installed them in the coach.

I have used Battery Tenders for years to keep the batteries charged in all my toys. After two days of being plugged in the red idiot light is still illuminated. I went to the power converter and pulled every fuse out and the voltage drain didn't stop.

I looked over at the LP leak detector and the green light was on. I pulled the thing out of the wall and cut the positive wire.

I am waiting to see if the Battery Tender light will turn green.

Where is this positive feed coming from for the leak detector so that I may install a switch in the circuit?

Are there any other mysterious 12 volt drains within the coach?

Also, does the switch have to be in the "usage mode" to charge the batteries when plugged into shore power?
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Old 08-08-2016, 12:56 PM   #2
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Yes, the switch needs to be in USE to charge the batteries form shorepower. Some have said their trailer has the subwoofer energized all of the time so that may be another drain. In my trailer only the propane detector is alive with the switch in STORE. But, that can drain the batteries over time in storage.
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Old 08-08-2016, 01:05 PM   #3
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Are there any lights in the storage compartments which could be left on? Don't know if AS have these, my Avion does and I have left one on before.
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Old 08-08-2016, 01:06 PM   #4
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I have a 2015 27 ft FC. I had to replace my batteries one month after their one year warranty was up. I also replaced the charger/converter. There are a ton of threads about this in the batteries/converters/chargers cation of the forum. Good luck.

Mike

PS. It seems easier to me to physically disconnect your batteries than to cut the wire on your important propane detector.
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Old 08-08-2016, 04:19 PM   #5
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Also too....
If the radio has a removable faceplate, do it.

I put a switch on the LPG detector...

Bob
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Old 08-08-2016, 04:51 PM   #6
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We have an indicator light on the TV antenna booster in both trailers. It will eventually draw the batteries down, too.

Dan
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Old 08-09-2016, 12:38 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by avionstream View Post
Are there any lights in the storage compartments which could be left on? Don't know if AS have these, my Avion does and I have left one on before.
I concur. Check also if the tongue jack light is ON.

Not sure if you have done this, but why not disconnect all leads going into the trailer so you are left with the parallel connections. Then check to see if the batteries themselves are ok.

Check for water levels on the battery just for kicks.
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Old 08-09-2016, 12:45 PM   #8
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Parasitic battery drain...Use a battery disconnect switch. I do with a Renogy 100 Watt 12 Volt Solar and always charged and ready to roll.
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Old 08-09-2016, 12:51 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS View Post
Also too....
If the radio has a removable faceplate, do it.

I put a switch on the LPG detector...

Bob
Bob,

I like what you did, who's switch manufacturer did you use? My LP detector is mounted on a piece of 3/4" veneer particle board and I have been unable to locate a switch that has a long enough neck to fit through the piece of wood.

Kurt
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Old 08-09-2016, 12:57 PM   #10
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Parasitic battery drain...Use a battery disconnect switch. I do with a Renogy 100 Watt 12 Volt Solar and always charged and ready to roll.
Isn't that what the store / usage switch is for? I have had many RV's, this is my 1st AS and the others always had a marine style big red off/on switch for the batteries and I did not have this issue.

There is really not anywhere to mount (and hide that type/style of a switch) in a 23 FB.
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Old 08-09-2016, 12:59 PM   #11
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You could countersink a larger diameter hole from the face plate and use a switch with a longer toggle.
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Old 08-09-2016, 01:07 PM   #12
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I put a battery disconnect switch on the negative terminal. I just flip a switch, when I put in storage. This disconnects everything. I purchase it from AutoZone.
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Old 08-09-2016, 01:09 PM   #13
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Batteries dead

Yup, had to replace the batteries and converter in our new rig. Have had to replace refrig fan also. Fix door, leak at toilet etc. Lots of repairs to a new product.
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Old 08-09-2016, 01:18 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KWN306 View Post
Bob,

I like what you did, who's switch manufacturer did you use? My LP detector is mounted on a piece of 3/4" veneer particle board and I have been unable to locate a switch that has a long enough neck to fit through the piece of wood.

Kurt

Kurt,

A-Zon is your friend.


Bob
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Old 08-09-2016, 01:19 PM   #15
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Even in the store position there is a parasitic battery drain because the propane leak detector is always on. The constant voltage drop on your batteries will be enough over time they will never recharge... I learned the hardway. Went to a switch, gel batteries and solar... no more problems. Fortunately the Interstate battery distributor gave me a deal on the original batteries. Since they were under warranty ((5 months old) that is how quickly you can kill batteries with parasitic drain)) I went with two sealed AGM Interstate batteries and a top post battery disconnect switch on the negative post to cut the circuit.

Quote:
Originally Posted by KWN306 View Post
Isn't that what the store / usage switch is for? I have had many RV's, this is my 1st AS and the others always had a marine style big red off/on switch for the batteries and I did not have this issue.

There is really not anywhere to mount (and hide that type/style of a switch) in a 23 FB.
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Old 08-09-2016, 02:04 PM   #16
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Also, there is a fan that keeps air moving on your frig., this fan is set to run if the outside temp is over 45', I unhook the fan when I not using the AS.
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Old 08-09-2016, 02:11 PM   #17
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I have never experienced that and living in southern Florida our outside temp is always over 45.

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Also, there is a fan that keeps air moving on your frig., this fan is set to run if the outside temp is over 45', I unhook the fan when I not using the AS.
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Old 08-09-2016, 02:44 PM   #18
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The only answer is a battery, solar, converter or inverter (which ever is applicable) disconnect switches like Lew installs. Also, shorted cell in a battery bank will kill the other cells in short order. Residual drains are like germs they are everywhere.
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Old 08-09-2016, 11:56 PM   #19
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Here us a good thread on parasitic or phantom loads.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f449...on-140542.html

Bob
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Old 08-10-2016, 04:51 AM   #20
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Here us a good thread on parasitic or phantom loads.
. . .
Bob
Thanks for this link, Bob, from before we got our FC20 last fall. idroba was certainly a fount of knowledge and a gentleman.

Rest in Peace.

Peter

PS -- edit -- also good to see the following advice, as an answer was not forthcoming in that other recent thread:

Quote:
Originally Posted by idroba View Post
. . .
I also just remove those two jumper wires when I put the rig into winter storage as it is the easiest way to totally disconnect the batteries. Easier than disconnecting either the positive or negative cables and accomplishes the same thing.
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