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GM Airstream · 06-09-2018, 01:09 AM

Ok... we are changing the batterys from the on board group 24's to the A FRAME t-105 golf cart bats.

Has anyone done this before in the 80-s 90's excella trailers ?

Am I re-inventing the wheel...

I also am doing research on the new GD wizzard converter that is rated for 80 amps. Love it so far.

But, now comes the time to pull the old converter and put the new one in... It appears that my 85 has Ckt Breakers behind the front wall... and the battery isolater was installed previous.

I am finding that the battery box is already located in the A frame area... and when I pulled the old converter... their was a 2 inch hole through the floor to the outside... did someone do that or is it factory ?

Mainly I am trying to find the routing for the neg cable from the ckt breaker pannel to the battery and converter.

Any one been their before and done this ?

thanks for the help

uncle_bob · 06-12-2018, 07:20 PM

Hi

There *should* be some sort of breaker / fuse / whatzit between the converter / charger and the battery. In the newer trailers it is an SAE Type II thermal breaker. Oddly, for the 55 A converter they use a 50A thermal breaker. That could be because there are no larger models in that style ( = 50 A max ). I put in a 60A Type I in a location where I can *barely* get to the reset lever. It's already come in handy to disconnect this from that. My guess is you will need to add an 80A device to go with your 80A converter / charger.

Bob

GM Airstream · 06-13-2018, 03:38 AM

thanks U bob...

Yes I am thinking that a circuit breaker is not going to be the item of choice... instead I am seeing the fuse being used.... the automotive segment has gone to a inline fuse from the alternator to the battery... kind of thing... most of the new auto alternators are up around 250 amps... and so they put a inline fuse that is rated for that in a little holder... they cost about 5 bux... and are their for the safety of shorting the circuit... I guess...

I plan on putting mine in the top 1.5 inches lift area... that way if the cabling shorts.. it will blow the fuse.. not much can be done with the batt terminals... and if they contact things.. it will just be a molten bunch of metal... so I plan on putting a 1/4 inch insulator over the tops of the batts so that the metal part won't contact the terminals...

I also have gone to No. 4 wire... from the converter to the ckt breaker box mounted on the front of the trailer... and No. 4 wire from the battery disconnect to the batts. I know that No. 6 wire is what others say will work.. for the short distance.. but A/S used No. 4 from the battery disconnect to the ckt breaker box... I guess for lower loss..so will I...

The old transformer converter is gone... and surprise... I found that someone drilled a 2 inch hole through the floor and out the bottom already.. (might also work for getting the coax into the trailer front... for the ham radio)

Seems that the vehicle connect wires come through it... but, I wonder if the factory didn't do the hole... and then put the transformer converter over it for cooling... etc...

Mine came with the battery box behind the propane tanks... and best i can find it was factory done...

New DP 4 stage is working great.. already in a weeks time have conditioned the batts back up to about 95%... and you can leave it on all the time... so we now do... and no battery boiling... for the older 24's that are still their..

I am wondering what to do with the old batt boxes.. that come in from the front... I don't think I need more batts.. but, am conserned about the weight on the ball...

I am trying to keep it under 1000 lbs... with the trailer coming in at 8100 lbs on the tag... 10-15% of it on the ball... is going to be close... as we have the 40 lb propane tanks.. and now the two GC batts behind in the A frame... its going to be close when done... Just a little over... kinda thing...