Champion Dual Fuel Mod

[hawkspur]

I have a Champion 2200w dual fuel generator that I'm trying to modify to allow connectivity to the LP port on the rig. To do so, you need to remove the stock regulator that comes with the generator for propane use. This seems to be a pretty popular mod.



The issue I'm running into is that it appears the regulator was secured with red adhesive from the factory and it won't budge. Anyone have any ideas on how to remove it?

[WellSaid11]

Originally Posted by hawkspur

I have a Champion 2200w dual fuel generator that I'm trying to modify to allow connectivity to the LP port on the rig. To do so, you need to remove the stock regulator that comes with the generator for propane use. This seems to be a pretty popular mod.



The issue I'm running into is that it appears the regulator was secured with red adhesive from the factory and it won't budge. Anyone have any ideas on how to remove it?

Skip the modification for the low-pressure port and run it off your regular propane tanks(s) with a Y connector and a longer hose.

[WhatNext]

I have a Champion 2500. Just get a longer hose with the fittings on it.

Save the short hose with the regulator for using the generator away from the AirStream.

[jeffmc306]

hawkspur, we have the Champion 3400 dual fuel that I run off the Airstream low pressure port.

I split the two units and put quick connect fittings on the regulator because I wanted to retain the tank operation for home. I use a 12’ LP extension hose between the trailer and generator. I found the parts list on another forum thread. Search for Champion 3400 and you should find it

It’s an easy change and works great!

[Joseph Sessa]

Originally Posted by WellSaid11

Skip the modification for the low-pressure port and run it off your regular propane tanks(s) with a Y connector and a longer hose.

Yes, that is an easier option. The red stuff you see is a sealant like Permatex, but for natural or propane gas to minimize the chance of a leak. If you have muscle, you can torque it off if you really wish to.

[guskmg]

Do not remove the regulator that connects to the engine. It is an ultra low pressure regulator designed to reduce already regulated 11-13 inches of water column to .5 inches (one half inch of water pressure). Just connect your genny feed hose directly to the low pressure port on the tongue of your trailer. I prefer the 3/8 brass quick connects with the black plastic bag valve handles.
guskmg

[hawkspur]

Originally Posted by jeffmc306

hawkspur, we have the Champion 3400 dual fuel that I run off the Airstream low pressure port.

I split the two units and put quick connect fittings on the regulator because I wanted to retain the tank operation for home. I use a 12’ LP extension hose between the trailer and generator. I found the parts list on another forum thread. Search for Champion 3400 and you should find it

It’s an easy change and works great!

This is more or less what I'm trying to do, but I haven't had any luck separating the regulator from the rest of the assembly

[Mark of SJC]

Originally Posted by jeffmc306

hawkspur, we have the Champion 3400 dual fuel that I run off the Airstream low pressure port.

I split the two units and put quick connect fittings on the regulator because I wanted to retain the tank operation for home. I use a 12’ LP extension hose between the trailer and generator. I found the parts list on another forum thread. Search for Champion 3400 and you should find it

It’s an easy change and works great!

I too have a Champion Dual Fuel. The Champion-supplied LP connector must be used (it electronically checks that it's in place or it won't fire). So utilizing that portion, I'm not following how you take advantage of the AS built-in quick connect port on the A Frame hitch. Color me dumb, but what do you mean by "I split the two units and put the quick connect fittings on the regulator?"

[jeffmc306]

Originally Posted by Mark of SJC

I too have a Champion Dual Fuel. The Champion-supplied LP connector must be used (it electronically checks that it's in place or it won't fire). So utilizing that portion, I'm not following how you take advantage of the AS built-in quick connect port on the A Frame hitch. Color me dumb, but what do you mean by "I split the two units and put the quick connect fittings on the regulator?"

No worries Mark, no name calling here!

The Champion regulator has two parts; you need to split them and install a 1/8” FPT to 1/4” FPT brass connector then a 1/4” quick connect male fitting on the larger pressure reducing valve. I used a 12’ LP extension hose to connect to the Airstream low pressure port on the road side of the A-frame behind the battery box. See photos below; some were from another forum member’s post.

Hope that helps!

[Colossus]

Originally Posted by jeffmc306

No worries Mark, no name calling here!

The Champion regulator has two parts; you need to split them and install a 1/8” FPT to 1/4” FPT brass connector then a 1/4” quick connect male fitting on the larger pressure reducing valve. I used a 12’ LP extension hose to connect to the Airstream low pressure port on the road side of the A-frame behind the battery box. See photos below; some were from another forum member’s post.

Hope that helps!

Thanks for sharing the process and parts list! It made for an easy ordering and modification.

[Joseph Sessa]

Originally Posted by hawkspur

I have a Champion 2200w dual fuel generator that I'm trying to modify to allow connectivity to the LP port on the rig. To do so, you need to remove the stock regulator that comes with the generator for propane use. This seems to be a pretty popular mod.



The issue I'm running into is that it appears the regulator was secured with red adhesive from the factory and it won't budge. Anyone have any ideas on how to remove it?

It is a red sealant for gas and just very tight to keep the gas from leaking. Just use manpower to wrench it off.

[Colossus]

Originally Posted by jeffmc306

hawkspur, we have the Champion 3400 dual fuel that I run off the Airstream low pressure port.



I split the two units and put quick connect fittings on the regulator because I wanted to retain the tank operation for home. I use a 12’ LP extension hose between the trailer and generator. I found the parts list on another forum thread. Search for Champion 3400 and you should find it



It’s an easy change and works great!

Also, I see what you did here; another great idea to incorporate for home use.

I currently have my gas oven out because I’m waiting for my countertop to be installed. I wanted to run the generator (propane function) to cool things off and create a cooler work environment.

I already made the modification changing the generator to use the AS quick connect supplied gas. Using the modification above for “home use” allows me to still run my generator as originally designed with a stand alone propane tank until my oven/AS gas line is back operational.

Again, thanks for sharing.

[jeffmc306]

Colossus, glad you found the home use feature handy. We upgraded our home’s power panel to 200A because the old one was out of slots. Doing so allowed us to add a generator interlock and an outside 30A receptacle box.

Flip the main breaker to Off, flip the interlock 30A breaker On, connect the generator and chose which circuits inside you want to run. This was a selling point to the DW when choosing the Champion dual fuel generator since we can use it home and away.

We have two 20# tanks for the grill plus the two 30# tanks from the Globetrotter so we could ride out a lengthy power outage if necessary.

[Colossus]

Originally Posted by jeffmc306

Colossus, glad you found the home use feature handy. We upgraded our home’s power panel to 200A because the old one was out of slots. Doing so allowed us to add a generator interlock and an outside 30A receptacle box.



Flip the main breaker to Off, flip the interlock 30A breaker On, connect the generator and chose which circuits inside you want to run. This was a selling point to the DW when choosing the Champion dual fuel generator since we can use it home and away.



We have two 20# tanks for the grill plus the two 30# tanks from the Globetrotter so we could ride out a lengthy power outage if necessary.

That’s awesome!! Definitely taking advantage of the generator usage along with the benefits of having a dedicated 30A at home for the RV. Well done.

Bookmarking this post, I’ve been having a hard time selling my DW on the cost of adding a receptacle for the AS and Tesla. We’re out of space in the panel as well, this may just be the information needed to get the nod. Lol

[jeffmc306]

Originally Posted by Colossus

That’s awesome!! Definitely taking advantage of the generator usage along with the benefits of having a dedicated 30A at home for the RV. Well done.

Bookmarking this post, I’ve been having a hard time selling my DW on the cost of adding a receptacle for the AS and Tesla. We’re out of space in the panel as well, this may just be the information needed to get the nod. Lol

Just to clarify, my 30A receptacle is the generator feed into the home AC panel. I have not installed a dedicated 30A circuit for the trailer. We park our Airstream on the side of the garage, the farthest away from the panel. Given the cost of copper today, that one got put on hold!