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Old 03-11-2019, 12:05 PM   #21
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2019 27' Globetrotter
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Crimping is for sure easier, and as others have noted, a crimp tool for that gauge is not expensive. I've used pre-loaded lugs for larger gauge cable and they seem to work well too; no issues after five years of use.
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Old 03-11-2019, 12:14 PM   #22
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Cable lugs - crimp or solder

Biggest thing with using soldered lugs is to support and route the wire in a manner that avoids flexing at the solder joint. Vibration is the enemy of soldered connections because the wire is stiffened and becomes a bit brittle where the solder wicks into the strands.

The parts listed in jimro’s post seem to be quality stuff, and adhesive heat shrink would protect the wire from corrosion and vibration as well.

Personally, I’ll still crimp stuff, as I have the right tooling. Heat shrink gets added either way.
Just be sure to use good parts and techniques, and it should be fine.

Admittedly we’re not building aircraft or spacecraft around here. (But we can dream, right?)
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Old 03-12-2019, 07:43 AM   #23
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Now, that really burst my bubble!! (Sorry. I couldn't resist!)

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Originally Posted by rmkrum View Post
Admittedly we’re not building aircraft or spacecraft around here. (But we can dream, right?)
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Old 03-13-2019, 09:13 PM   #24
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1976 31' Excella 500
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Originally Posted by GMFL View Post
Crimp and adhesive heat shrink. I have learned that solder causes the stranded wire to becom stiff at the connection and when the wire bends close to the joint it will eventually break.
Cable assembly manufactures will tell you that soldering cable connectors creates stress points at the point where the solder end, and these stress points are the first place cable assemblies break due to vibration with the assembly.

Regardless of which method you choose to use, note that cable assemblies must be strain relieved close to their connections to dampen down vibrations. The best teaching example is to open the hood of you car and note how manufactures install cable assemblies.

The best of luck to you.
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