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Old 03-31-2009, 11:59 AM   #1
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1956 22' Flying Cloud
1953 32' Liner
1955 22' Safari
Valley View , Texas
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Building a new electrical system...

I could use some input here....
I am building an electrical system from the ground up in my '47 Curtis Wright. Nothing fancy, but functional. I have the basic wire runs in and am going to use a Marinco power plug from the shore power. I have a 15 fuse position panel that surface mounts...where I can get at it and see it when need be. I want to get a similar AC circuit breaker panel to mount beside it. Any suggestions here? How many breakers, what size, etc.? GFCI out side and at the sink, what ever you have learned from experience.
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Old 03-31-2009, 03:09 PM   #2
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Seems like 20 amp breakers would work, maybe one for GFI circuit, another for regular outlets, maybe another for furnace/fridge. Maybe look at a newer AS, see what they are coming with these days. Home Depot should have small panels.
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Old 03-31-2009, 05:30 PM   #3
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Question's? For you to consider...

Are you "only" going to use shore power?
What are you thinking for 12 volt?
Are you going to use an inverter?
What size AC are you running some need 30 amp?

I would take the time NOW to map out every electrical need and desire you want... research every item you are going to wire into the over all system and lay it out in a "mock up" form .... It is very hard to rewire these trailers after interior skin and parts are put back in!

I guess what I am trying to say is plan well ahead at this stage! Your trailer's age really had very little in the way of electrical systems so you are in many ways reinventing the wheel! So you need to kinda work backwards to get the best results!

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Old 03-31-2009, 07:36 PM   #4
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plan was made

Initially the plan is...all 12 volt lighting with individual switching. One 12 v light switch at the door for the overhead. AC outlets at all four corners at floor level and one high on the side walls each side as original. One at each end, front and rear, on the counters.....front for the microwave type requirement. A 12 v access at both ends of the interior too. Separate 120 AC plugs for the converter and the fridge under the counter. A wiring harness laid in for an AC...should one ever be put in on the roof.
I had planned on a 30 amp main CB and a 20 amp for the AC and microwave outlets. Sound OK? What size for the other outlets? Is there a Blue Sea type box that will cover these requirements? Something else same physical size? Thanks.
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Old 03-31-2009, 09:00 PM   #5
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Thumbs up Ac/dc

Hi Robin,
I installed a DC system in my trailer using Prodressive Dynamics PD6000 DC panel along with a PD9200 converter last year. I also upgraded the AC electrical system with a Marinco 30 amp input fixture (get this at Wholesale Marine) & new wiring & new Square D AC curcuit box w/breakers.
If I had it to do over again I would go with the PD4300 power center which has everything in 1 unit. (it was not available when I purchased)
Or at least the PD5000 which has the DC & AC distributation in 1 unit.
1959 "Globester"
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Old 04-01-2009, 06:06 AM   #6
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You may also want to consider a switch at the door that will kill everything. I'm planning on doing this using a relay. Uwe of Area 63 discusses how he achieved that here on his blog: Wiring, continued
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Old 04-01-2009, 08:41 AM   #7
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Nicely done insulation (post #4)! Can't wait to hear how that works out, since you're in hot country, which is the kind of temperatures where I have the most trouble--a sunny day in the summer in Utah is a challenge.

By the way, I take the simple approach to electrics. I use a small 4-breaker box from HD (like $20) for 110V, with one breaker as the mains, which is GFCI, then one for the A/C and the other two for two general circuits. For 12V, I use an 8-position automotive fuze panel ($17) that can handle 40 amps and I fuze for that. (the advantage of this setup is that the fuzes are easy to pull and a fuze can act as a battery switch--if it's in a handy location you can pull it and guarantee that the battery won't get run down.) These fuze blocks have two rows, so I put the batteries, converter, and tow vehicle charge line on one side and the 4 12V trailer circuits on the other. I don't use an inverter, so my biggest 12V load is the water pump at about 7 amps. Lots of members are under the false impression that they have to use starter wire size cables for the batteries. Last time I looked, I don't have a starter motor in any of my trailers . Even #8 wire is mostly overkill--you'll never have those kinds of currents except for the first few seconds of recharging a completely dead battery. At that point the 40 amp fuzes let you know you've got a problem. Even my tow vehicle (F-250) is factory fuzed to deliver only 25 amps of charging current, which sort of sets the standard, IMHO.

The only benefit of a converter bigger than 45 amps is that it would provide a faster recharge on the batteries. If you're really a boondocker and operate a fair amount of time off your battery(ies), your max draw will be around 10-12 amps. Even a "big" automotive-style marine battery will only have a capacity of 115 amp-hrs, and you can only use 80% of that without damaging the battery. So if you want to boondock for 4-5 days, you have to plan your 12V use to average 5 amps or so for about 4 hours a day. One of the old vent light fixtures, with 6 bulbs, was a real battery killer all by itself!

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Old 04-01-2009, 09:25 AM   #8
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Citrus Heights , California
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I installed a Xantrex 60 amp in my excella. A wire size table was included.

for the 40 amp model-8AWG max 2 way length 20 feet.

for the 60 amp model-6AWG max 2 way length 20 feet

as my batts are 2 feet from the charger I'm sure I can go down a size in wire. but I have not an electrical engineering degree

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