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Old 01-19-2020, 11:41 AM   #1
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Blown Fuse

2012 Flying Cloud 25RB
The 20 amp fuse in the holder in the CB panel keeps blowing. This happens in battery and shore power. The fuse was blown when we purchased the camper but was replaced and worked fine until now. It blows wether on battery or shore power. It also blows with all the CBs in the off position. I know the rear lights are on this circuit because they donít work. The Airstream manual doesnít even show this fuse in their diagram.
Any ideas? Maybe something pinched during towing ?
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Old 01-19-2020, 03:34 PM   #2
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What else is on that circuit? If lights then remove them. Then check again. Whatever is connected to that circuit try to remove the load. Check with an ohm meter if shorted to the chassis.
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Old 01-19-2020, 04:49 PM   #3
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I don't see a 20amp fuse.
The circuit breakers have nothing to do with the fuse blowing. The converter would not have power. The battery would provide 12 volt DC unless you have it disconnected.
Troubleshooting with a meter might lead you in the right direction.
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Old 01-19-2020, 05:09 PM   #4
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The 20 amp fuse holder is pictured.
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Old 01-19-2020, 05:32 PM   #5
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Everything on the circuit to my knowledge is off and the fuse blows as soon as it is placed in the holder. I thought maybe there was something on the circuit that I was missing. I have no wiring diagram
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Old 01-19-2020, 05:58 PM   #6
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The 20 amp fuse holder is pictured.
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Old 01-19-2020, 06:12 PM   #7
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Blown Fuse

Chrishall,

Care to consider removing each light fixture believed to be on this circuit and inspecting connections.

To find lights affected with fuse holder empty turn on everything, if it doesnít light thatís a possible fixture to pull and inspect.

Make a chart or put masking tape labels on fixture to help keep track.

Also might not hurt to explore the wire as it leads away from circuit distribution. Look for oops stuff.

Gary
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Old 01-19-2020, 06:22 PM   #8
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Yes it was blown when we got the trailer replaced fuse and all worked fine. I am new to airstreams but somewhat knowledgeable in mechanics . The last time it blew was after towing and parking practice. There have bee no mods to the unit. It appears that only the front bedroom and bath/shower water pump and control panel are on this circuit. What am I missing.
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Old 01-19-2020, 06:26 PM   #9
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Might be time to go exploring these things donít really have diagnostic fault codes.

Any screws added to attach or install a new gizmo screw grounded power line thatís a massive swag.

Part of the learning curve or paying curve.
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Old 01-19-2020, 06:27 PM   #10
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Lights will not work with fuse holder empty
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Old 01-19-2020, 06:32 PM   #11
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Move the circuit. It will make it easier to check circuit and do away with that crappy fuse holder
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Old 01-19-2020, 08:28 PM   #12
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From the picture it looks like circuit one was a problem with the original 15amp fuse so someone replaced it with a cylindrical type 20 amp fuse holder. Check the resistance to frame ground it would have to be about 0.8 ohms or more to not blow the original 15 amp fuse. The circuit should of course be open but since the fuse blows it likely is not.

Now I'm wondering why they didnt just put a 20 amp fuse in the original slot. Makes me think the problem is right there at the panel. Take the load wire loose and check for continuity to ground again once it is isolated from the panel.
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Old 01-19-2020, 08:47 PM   #13
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You also said it was connected to the rear lights. The rear lights should only work when connected to your TV unless you are referring to the interior rear lights? What works and what doesn't work when connected to your TV? How are you checking that the rear lights weren't working?

Make a map of what circuits you have and what is on each circuit. Hopefully from deducing what each circuit does you can figure out what you don't have.

Pull the wire off and measure the resistance to the negative and to the frame. What are your ohm readings? Just make sure you remove all the bulbs before doing this or you will read close to a short since your bulbs will act like a short.
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Old 01-20-2020, 03:53 AM   #14
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There is nothing on 9
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Old 01-20-2020, 05:48 AM   #15
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Chrishall,

Any chance for a pic of the panel paper label DC DISTRIBUTION PAN please.

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Old 01-20-2020, 08:14 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chrishall View Post
There is nothing on 9
Exactly it’s a free or open space. Relocate the number one circuit there and get rid of that fuse holder.
That glass tide fuse holder is not factory It was placed there by the previous owner either due to a problem or to allow easier access. Could have been an o the road repair where that was the only parts they could find. Either way it could be a problem.
Best way to diagnose your problem is to start at the source and work from there. Establishing a solid power source is the place to start. Hence the move from 1 to 9

Also that little 16-18awg wire on that fuse holder is not rated to carry 20A. It’s junk.
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Old 01-20-2020, 09:10 AM   #17
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Check the connections and make sure all are tight and nothing moving around during transit
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Old 01-20-2020, 10:56 AM   #18
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Looks to me like the blade fuse for the position 1 black wire has been replaced with an inline fuse holder for some reason. Unless they were on the road and couldn't find a blade fuse, opted for the inline, I don't know why anyone would do this.

If it's primarily lights on that circuit, I would remove all the light bulbs, replace the fuse and then start adding back bulbs. My guess is that one of the lights (or whatever else is on that circuit) has a pinched wire.

If the fuse still blows with the light bulbs out, then whatever else is on that circuit should be suspect. Disconnect everything and start adding things back one at a time.
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Old 01-21-2020, 06:05 AM   #19
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Quote:
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Also that little 16-18awg wire on that fuse holder is not rated to carry 20A. Itís junk.
In all likelihood that circuit should be 15 amps and not 20. I'm sure if the fuse holder is an add-on that someone subbed a 15 amp for a 20 since that is all they had lying around.

Although the manual for your trailer shows all 20 amp circuits? Something doesn't match here.

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Old 02-05-2020, 09:58 AM   #20
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It's possible that you are using the wrong type of 20 amp fuse. Consider using a Time Delay 20 Amp glass fuse.

A time delay fuse is a special kind of fuse that allows electrical surge for a short time before it actually blows. Due to its special design, it can bear electricity overload in a repeated cycle for a short period without blowing.

https://www.zoro.com/eaton-bussmann-...-r/i/G3283743/




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