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StreamRollin · 07-09-2015, 12:50 PM

The last time I went to raise the Airstream to hitch up I had nothing when I pressed the lift button on the power jack. Looked at fuse panel and the 20 amp fuse had blow, didn't have a 20 amp so I threw a 30 amp fuse and everything worked fine. A few weeks ago same problem fuse blown. Only thing I did notice is that the propane cover was riding on the wire coming from the power jack on top of the hitch and looks like it might pinched.
Any ideas Thanks Jim

HowieE · 07-09-2015, 01:05 PM

If you pinched a wire and had a short at that point there should be a burned spot as a result of the short. In any case either reroute or cover that wire at that point.

HowieE · 07-09-2015, 03:03 PM

On second thought.

If there was a short you should cut the wire at the short and re-splice it because the wire diameter may have been reduced during the short.

AWCHIEF · 07-09-2015, 04:29 PM

Make sure you are using Slow Blow 30 amp fuses. Start up current draw is pretty high. They can be difficult to find. NAPA stocks them.

Airtandem · 07-09-2015, 05:14 PM

Tell me about it, in my case the inline fuse holder had separated just enough to loose contact. I than fund that the tank cover was "shorting " the wire so there was pull that caused the separation. I now carry not only extra fuses, but a 1/4 in drive extension(10 inch) and ratchet in-case i have to jack the trailer manually. The adapter supplies was too short.

mike

hhendrix · 07-09-2015, 05:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Airtandem

Tell me about it, in my case the inline fuse holder had separated just enough to loose contact. I than fund that the tank cover was "shorting " the wire so there was pull that caused the separation. I now carry not only extra fuses, but a 1/4 in drive extension(10 inch) and ratchet in-case i have to jack the trailer manually. The adapter supplies was too short.

mike

I have an extension for mine for the same reason, but it's 3/8 drive.

Sjcjr · 07-09-2015, 05:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Airtandem

Tell me about it, in my case the inline fuse holder had separated just enough to loose contact. I than fund that the tank cover was "shorting " the wire so there was pull that caused the separation. I now carry not only extra fuses, but a 1/4 in drive extension(10 inch) and ratchet in-case i have to jack the trailer manually. The adapter supplies was too short.

mike

Do you think an 18 volt drill with a 1/4 drive would work in a pinch?

AWCHIEF · 07-09-2015, 06:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sjcjr

Do you think an 18 volt drill with a 1/4 drive would work in a pinch?

It will work but will suck a marginal battery down quickly. I have used mine but my batteries are several years old and are getting tired. I also keep several extensions in the tool box so that I can clear the propane cover.

sandlapper · 07-09-2015, 07:49 PM

Put several thick flat washers under the aluminum brace inside the bottle cover to lift the cover up off the wires. Otherwise it will continue to rub through the wires.

Amazing that nearly every trailer that has rolled down the line has virtually no clearance between the tank cover and frame. Guaranteed pinched wires.

AWCHIEF · 07-09-2015, 08:26 PM

I put several inches of shrink wrap on my wires and wraped even more electrical tape around them. Still do not care for where they run. Keeping thinking I will reroute them, just never get around to it.

**Rocinante** · 07-09-2015, 11:38 PM

We've learned that a Low Bat condition will blow the jack fuse every time.

Separately, our jack was having intermittent failures - turns out we had two problems. First, the switch was going bad. Second, water was getting into the in-line fuse from the top and corroding the fuse and its contact. Since our unit is still under warranty, Uncle Wally replaced both at no additional cost to us, and now the jack is again dependable as long as we have enough charge on the batteries.

hacienda2 · 07-10-2015, 10:59 AM

I had the same problem. It was caused by raising the Jack to high. The fuse blows to protect the Jack. Since I now stop the Jack lower I have never had another problem.

HowieE · 07-10-2015, 11:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hacienda2

I had the same problem. It was caused by raising the Jack to high. The fuse blows to protect the Jack. Since I now stop the Jack lower I have never had another problem.

If the jack was a quality jack, and unlikely with a newer trailer, it would have limit switches at each end to stop the jack before it could stall the motor.

Just found an LCI jack on my daughters new trailer without limit switches after a blown fuse. Called the company and they said they don't use limit switches any longer we are supposed to watch the jack and stop it before it stalls.

Buyer Beware because they are selling junk now days.

Skater · 07-10-2015, 02:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HowieE

If the jack was a quality jack, and unlikely with a newer trailer, it would have limit switches at each end to stop the jack before it could stall the motor.

Just found an LCI jack on my daughters new trailer without limit switches after a blown fuse. Called the company and they said they don't use limit switches any longer we are supposed to watch the jack and stop it before it stalls.

Buyer Beware because they are selling junk now days.

...or his jack is indexed incorrectly.

ROBERTSUNRUS · 07-10-2015, 02:28 PM

Hi, I have had the blown fuse problem off and on. I have re-indexed my motor a few times. I believe the last few fuses blew because of weak batteries. I now have new batteries. But for situations like this, I bought a circuit breaker to replace the fuse. So far, so good.

StreamDog · 07-10-2015, 02:55 PM

Toggling too quickly between up and down or vice versa can blow the inline fuse. BTW, you might want to try to stay with the 20 amp fuse if that's what the specs call for.

mandolindave · 07-10-2015, 03:27 PM

I replaced my jack with an Atwood. I didn't know about indexing it. I should go online to learn procedure, if there is one for mine.

Mine just stopped working too. The fuse was not blown but it was corroded. It was the original fuse which was 30 amp 32 volts.

So now I want to replace the " weather proof " inline fuse holder. It seems like shrink tubing and tape would defeat the purpose of having an accessible fuse holder.

Mine jack came with a back up crank that is easy to operate.

HowieE · 07-10-2015, 03:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Skater

...or his jack is indexed incorrectly.

Yes indexing can be an issue but one would hope that any factory assembled jack would be assembled correctly. Indexing should only come into play when replacing the motor or the post assembly to ensure they are matched and the limit switches will function before the jack bottoms or tops out.

AWCHIEF · 07-10-2015, 04:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mandolindave

So now I want to replace the " weather proof " inline fuse holder. It seems like shrink tubing and tape would defeat the purpose of having an accessible fuse holder.
.

Suppose you are referring to my post. I did not tape the already water/weather proof inline fuse holder. I put the shrink wrap and tape where the wires were getting pinched between the frame and gas box. This morning I followed the suggestion to add washers under the mounting bracket. It seemed to make the box loose fitting and sloppy. Not happy with the result so I removed them. As soon as the temp dips below 90 I am going to mess with it some more. Got to be a better way than it comes from the factory. Projects and fiddling never ends.