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Old 07-10-2015, 05:28 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AWCHIEF View Post
Suppose you are referring to my post. I did not tape the already water/weather proof inline fuse holder. I put the shrink wrap and tape where the wires were getting pinched between the frame and gas box. This morning I followed the suggestion to add washers under the mounting bracket. It seemed to make the box loose fitting and sloppy. Not happy with the result so I removed them. As soon as the temp dips below 90 I am going to mess with it some more. Got to be a better way than it comes from the factory. Projects and fiddling never ends.

Hi, I ran my jack wires along the frame on the left side and into the battery box. I used tie-wrap anchors, stuck to my frame and tie -wraps to hold the wires in place. I didn't have to modify the wires at all.
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Old 07-10-2015, 05:33 PM   #22
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Awchief….I was just thinking out loud

Water is getting in my fuse holder.

But I can seal two of the three places where water can get in ( where the wire goes in and out of the fuse holder )I am thinking about silicone.

And I will probably put some tape around holder itself. Tape comes off, and I am hoping not to have a fuse problem for at least a few years.
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Old 07-10-2015, 05:49 PM   #23
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This is the fuse holder I use. Left over from my blue water sailing days.

http://www.amazon.com/Shoreline-Mari...ds=Fuse+holder
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Old 07-10-2015, 05:51 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROBERTSUNRUS View Post
Hi, I ran my jack wires along the frame on the left side and into the battery box. I used tie-wrap anchors, stuck to my frame and tie -wraps to hold the wires in place. I didn't have to modify the wires at all.

Sounds like a good plan. Will try it. Thanks
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Old 07-10-2015, 06:30 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROBERTSUNRUS View Post
Hi, I ran my jack wires along the frame on the left side and into the battery box. I used tie-wrap anchors, stuck to my frame and tie -wraps to hold the wires in place. I didn't have to modify the wires at all.
Hi, picture; I see one of my tie wraps broke, so I will replace it. been there for several years.
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Old 07-10-2015, 07:17 PM   #26
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The standard Airsteam jack has a limit switch package that mounts on the gears, and it normally stops the motor up or down. However the limit switches are just micro switches and after years of service the plastic gets brittle and they fail if used too often. I had to replace both on my '96. Also if you lift the head to manually run the jack, you may then be out of sync when you put it back after electrrical repairs. You need to run the jack all the way up while the trailer is supported or hooked up, then run it down maybe a turn or two. Now you have to run the motor in the correct direction to hit the upper limit switch. Then remount the electric motor head on the jack. Just did all this about a month ago.
If you want to spend $60 you can purchase the complete limit switch package. I replaced the individual limit switches with on-line purchase for $16.
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Old 07-11-2015, 06:33 AM   #27
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After my EOM jack head self destructed I bought and installed a Barker Deluxe Super Jack Hi-Power 3500. First time I tried to use it the fuse blew. After blowing a second fuse I gave Barker a call. Explained my issue and the CS Tech thought it might be the up/down switch. He overnighted a new switch. When I opened the package it contained not only that switch but a light switch, two micro limit switches, light bulb, 3 fuses and two nylon gears. Basically everything needed to rebuilt except the motor. There was a note included that said if the enclosed parts did not help give him a call and he would send me a complete new head/motor unit. That is what I call outstanding customer service. Turns out none of the parts were the problem, it was the fuse holder. There was a bad solder joint on one of the wires that was causing the blown fuses. Easily replaced the fuse holder and no more problem. I could of sent the whole jack back to Amazon or Barker for a replacement but decided to try a fix myself. Turned out for once that was the correct way to go.
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Old 07-11-2015, 07:20 AM   #28
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I used a rat tail, round file and enlarged the cutout at the base of the tank cover. The 7 pin cable was pinched up along with the jack wire. No more problem.


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Old 07-11-2015, 07:34 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AWCHIEF View Post
Suppose you are referring to my post. I did not tape the already water/weather proof inline fuse holder. I put the shrink wrap and tape where the wires were getting pinched between the frame and gas box. This morning I followed the suggestion to add washers under the mounting bracket. It seemed to make the box loose fitting and sloppy. Not happy with the result so I removed them. As soon as the temp dips below 90 I am going to mess with it some more. Got to be a better way than it comes from the factory. Projects and fiddling never ends.

I took sections of 3/8" automotive fuel hos and split them lengthwise. I placed them on the bottom of the propane cover at the areas where they ride on the a-frame and jack plate. This allows space between the cover and the wiring, while allowing for a tight fit of the cover. No movement at all.

BTW, I ENJOY projects and fiddling, but I'm built that way. Celebrate them, if you can.....
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Old 07-12-2015, 06:51 AM   #30
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Another great idea, thanks.
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Old 07-13-2015, 07:27 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dznf0g View Post
I took sections of 3/8" automotive fuel hos and split them lengthwise. I placed them on the bottom of the propane cover at the areas where they ride on the a-frame and jack plate. This allows space between the cover and the wiring, while allowing for a tight fit of the cover. No movement at all.

BTW, I ENJOY projects and fiddling, but I'm built that way. Celebrate them, if you can.....
We took a short piece of 1/2" Pex tubing, spray painted it gray, and fed the wires through it as protection. We also used some washers to raise the tank cover a bit for clearance. The only problem with our solution is that the paint is wearing off the Pex, as you would probably expect. But I'll take that problem over the fire we had from the shorted wires...
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Old 07-13-2015, 07:42 AM   #32
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Hi, last time that I looked at new Airstreams, instead of re-routing the wires like I did, they cut a huge hole in the propane tank cover. Sometimes, I would like to show them a few things on my trailer that they should do. Simple things that make our trailer nicer and are not expensive fixes.
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Old 07-13-2015, 10:22 AM   #33
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Can't help but think that the folks that design them don't use them.
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Old 07-14-2015, 11:22 AM   #34
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Just a bit of experience re painting Pex or plastic. Krylon paint will stick and weather very well.

Our tank covers were adjusted by some dealer using washers and nuts after they moved the regulator up from its location at the bottom of the threaded rod. The factory install is simply very amateurish. The easy way is not always the most utilitarian. I plan to completely rework the assembly so it sits still and works without a struggle while changing tanks.
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Old 07-16-2015, 08:22 PM   #35
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Just a bit of experience re painting Pex or plastic. Krylon paint will stick and weather very well.

Our tank covers were adjusted by some dealer using washers and nuts after they moved the regulator up from its location at the bottom of the threaded rod. The factory install is simply very amateurish. The easy way is not always the most utilitarian. I plan to completely rework the assembly so it sits still and works without a struggle while changing tanks.
jcw

Hi, I posted pictures before, but I don't have them right now; What I did, was to lower the cross bar to the inside of the tank handles instead of on top. Then I made spacers for the tank cover. Now I tighten my tanks first, then tighten my tank cover last. Now both the tanks and the cover are always tight. Airstream made it so you would tighten the tanks and cover all at the same time, but I found that one or the other would be loose. I wasn't happy with that arrangement.
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Old 07-19-2015, 10:09 PM   #36
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I was blowing my fuse too often. Took the Dremel to the cover and duplicated the cutout the AS is doing in the new trailers and re routed the wire so that my PP jack U bolts weren't impinging the wire so far so good.


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Old 07-19-2015, 10:10 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROBERTSUNRUS View Post
Hi, I posted pictures before, but I don't have them right now; What I did, was to lower the cross bar to the inside of the tank handles instead of on top. Then I made spacers for the tank cover. Now I tighten my tanks first, then tighten my tank cover last. Now both the tanks and the cover are always tight. Airstream made it so you would tighten the tanks and cover all at the same time, but I found that one or the other would be loose. I wasn't happy with that arrangement.

I use a nut to tighten the tanks down, then put the big wing nut down so the cover will stay latched.


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