Best Connector tool and Connectors?

[Keyair]

Lots of bad and ugly spade, and ring connectors on my Motorhome that need redoing.
I would like to get some advice on the best long term connectors and tools to complete the job.
I have spade connectors, both male and female, ring connecters and also splices to do.

I have a few crimping tools for terminals, the best of which is the Klein 1010..


Not really happy with the consistancy of the crimps tho.

Is there something better out there?

[Smartstream]

Solder and shrink tube. Actually the crimpers are not the problem, it's getting good, quality connectors. Solder solves the problem.

Cheers, Dan

[vswingfield]

Another vote for solder.

Good connections that last. Definitely more work up front, but they don't need redone.

[doorgunner]

A real nice crimping tool will cost about $40.
The Navy has some sweet ones. When I went to avionics school back in the 60's I got to use them a lot.And when a AK round goes thru the main wire bundle in a 46 you need good crimpers that will not cramp your hand.
I'm glad you chose an American made brand.
The good ones are still out there, try a place that sell aircraft stuff, Digikey may even sell them.
They do make a difference.

[Steve Bryant]

I am a retired aviation electronics (avionics) engineer and I used to be a technician in this same field. I've built and repaired a number of wire harnesses and the best tool that I have is the Dorman Products Conduct-Tite (see Dorman Products - 86595). A number of places sell this tool, including Pep Boys (see Dorman - Conduct-Tite Crimper - Ratcheting Tool | Product Details | Pep Boys). Here is an example of some crimps that I've made with this tool. I also believe in using silicon dielectric grease on wire and connections that will be exposed to weather and the elements (terminal, screw and wire end to left of center of connector have been coated in this photo as an example).

This crimp tool is about $30 and will work for red (18 to 22 gage), blue (14 and 16 gage) and yellow (8 to 12 gage) terminals. The tool ratchets and will not release until the crimp is complete. The tool is also adjustable as to how tightly it crimps. You always need to do a pull test on every wire you crimp. Put some tension on the wire with your thumb and forefinger and apply about 3 to 5 pounds of tension on the wire to make sure that it has been properly crimped.

I often use a standard crimper like the one you have in your post. I can make good crimps with that type of tool too, but it's far easier to be consistently good with a ratcheting crimp tool.

Steve

[ROBERTSUNRUS]

Hi, while I was in the tool business, [Mac Tools] the professional automotive electricians chose Thomas & Betts crimpers I have and use two different ones. One is for insulated connectors and the other is for bare metal connectors. Doing automotive electrical repairs at new car dealers, I have used several different types and brands; None of them compare with a Thomas & Betts crimper. Perfect crimp every time. Other brands can come loose or over crimp and break the wires.

[Steve Bryant]

Here is a project where I replaced the plug and the first 8 feet of the cable that goes into my tow vehicle showing the old and the new plugs. Note; I used both types of tools on this harness work.

Steve

[doorgunner]

Steve;
I see you're from Wichita,
you familiar with Bob Nuckolls of AeroElectric Connection?
He wrote a great handbook for EAA members a few years ago.
I call it my Avionics Bible.
The kind the Navy uses are just like the ones Robert posted a pic of above.

[crisen]

Another vote for the ratcheting style but I don't recall the brand, there are several. For terminals I prefer the marine style with heat shrink and sealant built in to the terminal instead of the std plastic insulators. They are expensive but seal to the wire very nicely.

[bkahler]

Originally Posted by ROBERTSUNRUS

Hi, while I was in the tool business, [Mac Tools] the professional automotive electricians chose Thomas & Betts crimpers I have and use two different ones. One is for insulated connectors and the other is for bare metal connectors. Doing automotive electrical repairs at new car dealers, I have used several different types and brands; None of them compare with a Thomas & Betts crimper. Perfect crimp every time. Other brands can come loose or over crimp and break the wires.

Dito, best reasonably priced crimper out there.

Brad

[Jammer]

I used to do a lot more solder and shrink wrap but have found that, for 12v automotive and rv wiring, the ratchet crimpers do a better job because the connection is just as reliable electrically and requires less space because it doesn't make the wire rigid.

I have this tool from Del City, which is only $30 and works great, even in tight places:

Open Barrel Terminal Ratchet Crimp Tool

[Bruce B]

The ratcheting crimpers mentioned here are great tools.
I vote against soldering unless you really know what you are doing!
Cold solder joints, solder wicking into wiring causing it to work harden with flex and other assorted ills are easily overlooked unless you are very good.
Another source of really first class connectors and tools in Anchor brand. They are not inexpensive but they are excellent quality and if you are near a West Marine store always on the shelves. You can not go wrong!
Bruce

[lewster]

Arguably, the best, most versatile crimping tool available. I have the full set of interchangeable dies and 2 die frames and use them constantly.


CRIMP TOOL W/INTERCHANGEABLE DIES (SOLD SEP.) WAYTEK


Waytek Catalog 225

[Tom Nugler]

Originally Posted by crisen

Another vote for the ratcheting style but I don't recall the brand, there are several. For terminals I prefer the marine style with heat shrink and sealant built in to the terminal instead of the std plastic insulators. They are expensive but seal to the wire very nicely.

IMHO this is the best option for any mobile electronics, AC or DC.
I've used these in the Automotive Repair biz for nearly 30 years. The crimpers won't over-tighten shearing wires and the self sealing heat shrink not only seals the connector but can isolate the wire end and resist any pulling or vibration.
Let's say your rewiring brake magnets. Which would you rather do? Try to get a good clean hot solder joint, hoping you didn't accidentally preshrink your tubing, or, make 2 easy crimps with a butt connector, hit the joint with your heat gun and know you've made a permanent waterproof connection.

Tom

[Keyair]

Great Info guys!

Like I said, I have a few tools, and my pet hate is those multi crimper tools, with the stripper built in... I pull my hair out because they have some functional part of the tool below the pivot point, so you have to open the tool handles(a 2 handed job), then thread the handles thru the wire if it is in place and then crimp... then open the handle and thread them back out...

Sounds like I will be investing in a ratchet style crimper, or two!

What do you guys suggest for terminals?
I always liked those brass looking type like these, with the seperate slide over covers..

[Aerowood]

I'm a Daniels man myself

Daniels Manufacturing Corporation

[jm2]

for butt splices, we've been liking these for the last few years -

SolderGrip Heat-Shrink/Solder Multiple Wire Butt Splices, 22-18, 15/Clam-CPGI-CWT-9002-15 at The Home Depot

SolderGrip Heat-Shrink/Solder Multiple Wire Butt Splices, 16-14, 12/Clam-CPGI-CWT-9003-12 at The Home Depot

SolderGrip Heat-Shrink/Solder Multiple Wire Butt Splices, 12-10, 10/Clam-CPGI-CWT-9004-10 at The Home Depot

if you're not game for a soldering gun or iron and heat shrink tubing (our second choice to the above), then,

for all other insulated and non-insulated crimping type connectors, a ratcheting type tool, as mentioned in some of the precious posts, gives you very good performance, and consistency from use to use, imho.

Merry Christmas,

[Jammer]

The quality of the connectors themselves is, in general, far less a problem than the quality of the crimping tool. In theory a properly crimped connection is gas tight and not susceptible to corrosion. I don't rely on that though, and put heat shrink over the connector if the connection will be located in an area exposed to weather or road spray.

[ROBERT CROSS]

Originally Posted by Jammer

I used to do a lot more solder and shrink wrap but have found that, for 12v automotive and rv wiring, the ratchet crimpers do a better job because the connection is just as reliable electrically and requires less space because it doesn't make the wire rigid.

I have this tool from Del City, which is only $30 and works great, even in tight places:

Open Barrel Terminal Ratchet Crimp Tool

X2

'cept I use the T&B crimper....It's either Mac or Snap-on,(sorry Bob), knuckle busters have hard head's.

Bob

[Keyair]

Any thoughts on this kit?

S & G Tool Aid , 18960 Quick Change Ratcheting Terminal Crimping Kit