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djbar · 09-03-2019, 02:51 PM

Newbee owner of 2019 FC 25FBTwin here with question about a good battery monitor system to add to factory setup below.

Batteries (2): Lifeline AGM GPL-24T
Converter/charger: 3-stage WFCO WF-8955PEC-J
Power Transfer Switch: WFCO T-30
Inverter: WFCO WF-5110R (1000W; 8.33Amp)
Zamp Solar panels (2@53watts ea.)

Charge Controller: Adkinson SunExplorerII PVCM40D with SEDM6-40 display

Looking for BMS that doesn't seriously limit or preclude future upgrade to Li battery or adding additional solar panels. Looking at Victron BMV712 or Trimetric 2030 but don't know enuf to stay out of trouble! Any Advice?

uncle_bob · 09-03-2019, 04:08 PM

The 712 works fine. With any of them the shunt hookup is a bit of work.

Paprika · 09-03-2019, 04:17 PM

Most folks here use the Victron BMV-712. The Trimetric is an older design--it works, but the controls and LED displays are primitive and clunky and the display is bulky.

Worst of all, it lacks Bluetooth capability. The BMV-712 has a good LCD display, but you actually don't need it, because it connects wirelessly to Victron's VictronConnect app (iOS/Android/macOS/probably Windows as well), which displays much more information in a way that's much more understandable than any wall-mounted meter.

Matter of fact, on both my rigs I don't even have the BMV-712 mounted. It's dumped in a cubbyhole, because I never need to look at it. My iPhone, iPad, or MacBook, running Victron's app, tells me everything about my 12V system's status--I can even reprogram any of the BMV-712's settings from the app. No need to find a place to mount the display, run wires to it, etc.

What's more, the Victron app also works with their popular solar controllers, inverters, chargers, and even their LiFePO4 batteries. (When I bought a couple of those, I was actually able to check their charge status using my phone while they were still wrapped up on a pallet at the UPS Store!) It's a well-integrated system, and Victron frequently updates the app to add capabilities. By contrast, the Trimetric monitor integrates with nothing, as far as I know.

One more thing, while I'm praising Victron: their VictronConnect app has a little-known but very useful "demo mode." You go into this mode, choose from a long list of compatible Victron products, and you get a simulation of what the app will let you do with that product--readings, history, settings, etc. So even if you don't own any Victron products, you can download the free app, go into demo mode, and try out any product you're thinking of buying. Wondering whether you can set the absorb time limit on a Victron IP67-25 charger? Use demo mode and you can see exactly how that would work.

Bottom line: I can't see any reason to go with the Trimetric monitor.

**wulfraat** · 09-03-2019, 04:34 PM

Victron BMV-712 is what you want.

djbar · 09-04-2019, 06:55 AM

Thanks UncleBob, Paprika, and Wulfraat! Good to know that tha Bluetooth app works well so running wires and mounting the monitor becomes much less of an issue.

skitger · 09-04-2019, 07:46 AM

My vote is Victron 712, I love the phone app, I left the 712 inside my electrical compartment near the shunt, no need to run more wire or cut holes, Victron makes nice stuff.

uncle_bob · 09-04-2019, 10:05 AM

Hi

The 712 hooks to the shunt with a "telephone cord" cable. The display module can go just about anywhere. Hooking that part up is usually not an issue. The gotcha is pulling the big fat cable from the battery to go over to the shunt and then re-routing the cables that used to go to the battery.

I prefer to mount the 712 display somewhere where it *could* be seen if needed. One never knows when the cell phone may die. If you mount it "high" in the trailer you may be able to hit it from your TV. It can be fun to watch the battery as you go down the road. With it mounted close(r) to the floor that may be a more iffy proposition. ( = Bluetooth goes through windows better than through aluminum

)

Bob

pcskier · 09-04-2019, 10:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by uncle_bob

The gotcha is pulling the big fat cable from the battery to go over to the shunt and then re-routing the cables that used to go to the battery.
Bob

That's what I did, but alternatively he can leave the existing house and invert wires from the box in place, putting both from the batteries on the battery side of the shunt, and then the wires to house and inverter on the load side. This preserves the 'integrity' of the wiring Airstream deemed appropriate (4ga inverter/6ga house) which is OEM. Though fatter is always better! I went with a single 2ga, then 4ga to the inverter and 6 to house, but AM Solar included 2/0 ring connectors to go to the inverter....they were the diameter of my thumb! With a 1000w inverter I didn't think that was necessary :-)

I chose to mount the monitor where I can see it, in the galley. Also, my shunt is streetside front corner. Does the bluetooth signal come from the monitor or the shunt? I never really thought about it? My galley location gives a pretty good line of sight through the front windows through to the back window of my truck. Battery monitor and solar controller worth great on bluetooth.

gator.bigfoot · 09-04-2019, 11:17 AM

Bogart Engineering now makes a Wifi connection module for the TM-2030

http://www.bogartengineering.com/products/wf-2030.html

waninae39 · 09-05-2019, 08:47 AM

we use the many victron product
they all work together and provide seamless inet monitoring on the portal or Bluetooth from your phone

the inet monitoring is FREE

djbar · 09-05-2019, 10:54 AM

[QUOTE=uncle_bob;2284820]Hi

"The gotcha is pulling the big fat cable from the battery to go over to the shunt and then re-routing the cables that used to go to the battery."

Uncle_bob:
Is your shunt mounted inside the front of the trailer? Can it be mounted in the battery box (assuming there would be room) or must it be securely away from any possible moisture/dust etc?

djbar · 09-05-2019, 11:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pcskier

"That's what I did, but alternatively he can leave the existing house and invert wires from the box in place, putting both from the batteries on the battery side of the shunt, and then the wires to house and inverter on the load side. This preserves the 'integrity' of the wiring Airstream deemed appropriate (4ga inverter/6ga house) which is OEM. Though fatter is always better! I went with a single 2ga, then 4ga to the inverter and 6 to house, but AM Solar included 2/0 ring connectors to go to the inverter....they were the diameter of my thumb! With a 1000w inverter I didn't think that was necessary"

pcskier: 2 questions...

1. What is meant above by "existing house and inverter wires from the box..."
2. Where did you end up mounting the shunt? (May want to get your advice via PM about wiring when my 712 arrives for install.)
Thanks

pcskier · 09-05-2019, 11:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by djbar

pcskier: 2 questions...
1. What is meant above by "existing house and inverter wires from the box..."
2. Where did you end up mounting the shunt? (May want to get your advice via PM about wiring when my 712 arrives for install.)
Thanks

I am assuming you have a factory inverter. If so, there are two separate cable pairs from your batteries. A 4 awg pair to the inverter, and a 6 awg for the house 12v system. To avoid pulling new wire, you need to 'interrupt' each of the negative cables and install one end on the battery side of the shunt, and the other on the load side. you'll need a few ring connectors and a crimping tool, and possibly some new cable to do so, depending on your layout.

To be specific, the current 'house 12v' negative cable comes through the floor and (should) go to the negative bus bar. You would need it to go instead to the battery side of shunt. Then a new length of cable going from load side of shunt to the bus bar.
Then, the other negative cable from the inverter come in through the floor and goes to inverter. This needs to also go first to the battery side of the shunt, then continue from the load side of shunt to inverter.

My electrical area happens to be on the streetside at the front under dinette bench. Yours might be in there, or on the curbside depending on floor plan.

Feel free to DM or post here with questions, often helpful for others to see the answers.
This thread might be handy as well.
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f37/...-199687-2.html

Paprika · 09-05-2019, 12:03 PM

"Does the bluetooth signal come from the monitor or the shunt?"

From the monitor. In my experience, with the monitor lying on the floor under the bed of my 27FB, I can read it with my phone from up to about ten feet away outside the rig--yes, even through aluminum. But I don't think I can read it from inside my tow vehicle.

lsbrodsky · 09-05-2019, 12:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Paprika

"Does the bluetooth signal come from the monitor or the shunt?"

From the monitor. In my experience, with the monitor lying on the floor under the bed of my 27FB, I can read it with my phone from up to about ten feet away outside the rig--yes, even through aluminum. But I don't think I can read it from inside my tow vehicle.

My stuff is under the bed in my 25FB and I can read the BT on my phone in the tow vehicle.

Larry

djbar · 09-06-2019, 07:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pcskier

I am assuming you have a factory inverter. If so, there are two separate cable pairs from your batteries. A 4 awg pair to the inverter, and a 6 awg for the house 12v system. To avoid pulling new wire, you need to 'interrupt' each of the negative cables and install one end on the battery side of the shunt, and the other on the load side. you'll need a few ring connectors and a crimping tool, and possibly some new cable to do so, depending on your layout.

To be specific, the current 'house 12v' negative cable comes through the floor and (should) go to the negative bus bar. You would need it to go instead to the battery side of shunt. Then a new length of cable going from load side of shunt to the bus bar.
Then, the other negative cable from the inverter come in through the floor and goes to inverter. This needs to also go first to the battery side of the shunt, then continue from the load side of shunt to inverter.

My electrical area happens to be on the streetside at the front under dinette bench. Yours might be in there, or on the curbside depending on floor plan.

Feel free to DM or post here with questions, often helpful for others to see the answers.
This thread might be handy as well.
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f37/...-199687-2.html

pcskier:
Got it. Thank you. Your note and the link are very helpful. (Embarrassed to have missed the latter as I was noodling about this install!)

djbar · 09-06-2019, 07:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lsbrodsky

My stuff is under the bed in my 25FB and I can read the BT on my phone in the tow vehicle.

Larry

Larry:
When you refer to your "stuff", does that mean your shunt as well as your monitor? I also have a 25FB and I was wondering if it's best to locate shunt under the bed or somehow get it into the battery box to be closer to batts.

waninae39 · 09-06-2019, 07:29 AM

this is a sample for a 2 day monitoring coverage on my sport at home
i get higher results when camping and not plugged in.
lot of tress in our area, which reduces solar output.

victron does NOT charge for web access to see YOUR own data

uncle_bob · 09-06-2019, 09:31 AM

[QUOTE=djbar;2285267]

Quote:

Originally Posted by uncle_bob

Hi

"The gotcha is pulling the big fat cable from the battery to go over to the shunt and then re-routing the cables that used to go to the battery."

Uncle_bob:
Is your shunt mounted inside the front of the trailer? Can it be mounted in the battery box (assuming there would be room) or must it be securely away from any possible moisture/dust etc?

Hi

The shunt on the 712 is not enclosed in any way by Victron. It has a PC board attached to the side of the shunt. Thus it is not waterproof and not dirt / crud proof. You need to mount it inside the trailer or inside a tightly sealed box in the battery compartment. It's way easier to just mount it inside the trailer.

Bob

lsbrodsky · 09-06-2019, 10:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by djbar

Larry:
When you refer to your "stuff", does that mean your shunt as well as your monitor? I also have a 25FB and I was wondering if it's best to locate shunt under the bed or somehow get it into the battery box to be closer to batts.

Yes, all of the above. The shunt is under the bed, the monitor is actually mounted in the face of the cabinet door that is under the bed. I can get on my knees to look at it if I want to, but I almost never do, since BT is so much easier.
Larry