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Old 10-30-2005, 04:22 PM   #21
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Old 10-30-2005, 04:52 PM   #22
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Thanks one and all.....as usual, the Forum comes through. I've determined that the Yukon is putting zero voltage to the pin marked "+" which is obviously the charging circuit. I think wingfoot321 had the same problem; now to find the fuse! I searched the manual and find all the other TRLR fuses, but alas, none for the charging circuit. My guess is that is wired directly from the alternator and needs a fuse "in line."
Regarding the solar panel; I "after market" installed it (off my last trailer), so I have 2 conventional 12-V batteries. I've yet to dry camp in good sun, so don't have a good feel for capability yet.

Any hints where I may find that missing fuse?
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Old 10-30-2005, 04:57 PM   #23
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There should be an underhood electrical distribution box, IIRC, on the driver's side in front of the master cylinder. Of course that is under the hood, hence the name. There are other spots for your MIA fuse to be, but that is where most of the towing fuses reside. Also, you should have that info in your owner's manual for your truck, just look in the index under "fuses".
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Old 10-30-2005, 06:23 PM   #24
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Good going, wildwoodrver! Obviously 23 responses to your post in 24 hours didn't throw you off too much!
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Old 10-30-2005, 06:52 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wildwoodrver
Thanks one and all.....as usual, the Forum comes through. I've determined that the Yukon is putting zero voltage to the pin marked "+" which is obviously the charging circuit. I think wingfoot321 had the same problem; now to find the fuse! I searched the manual and find all the other TRLR fuses, but alas, none for the charging circuit. My guess is that is wired directly from the alternator and needs a fuse "in line."
Regarding the solar panel; I "after market" installed it (off my last trailer), so I have 2 conventional 12-V batteries. I've yet to dry camp in good sun, so don't have a good feel for capability yet.

Any hints where I may find that missing fuse?
check this thread out, there are photos showing the general location of the fuse on a GM vehicle. you don't need to go to all the extra work i did, just plug a fuse in place.

http://www.airforums.com/forum...ht=2nd+battery

keep in mind the actual location and which pin is hot varies year to year with GM.

it is in the underhood fuse center, you just need to read the inside of the lid for the exact position.
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Old 10-30-2005, 07:26 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wildwoodrver
Thanks one and all.....as usual, the Forum comes through. I've determined that the Yukon is putting zero voltage to the pin marked "+" which is obviously the charging circuit. I think wingfoot321 had the same problem; now to find the fuse! I searched the manual and find all the other TRLR fuses, but alas, none for the charging circuit. My guess is that is wired directly from the alternator and needs a fuse "in line."
Regarding the solar panel; I "after market" installed it (off my last trailer), so I have 2 conventional 12-V batteries. I've yet to dry camp in good sun, so don't have a good feel for capability yet.

Any hints where I may find that missing fuse?
You've got pretty much the same setup I have, a 2005 Sub and 2005 CCD. My batteries weren't charging either. After some head scratching we found that the Suburban did not come with an inline fuse that's required. We cannabalized one and stuck in the the slot in the black box on the driver side of the engine compartment. That was all it took. Autozone and others sell those block type fuses.
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Old 10-31-2005, 08:41 PM   #27
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Mystery resolved. GM ships these vehicles with a dummy fuse in the fuse box. A quick call to the excellent support staff at GM resolved it. Unfortunately, the fuse is labeled "Stud 1." The description is auxillary power. It was pretty obvious as it was the only "dummy" in place. I guess they wanted to leave the option open to use it for other "auxillary" purposes (not just trailer charging circuit).

So with a 40 amp fuse in place, I get 12v at the pin on the back of the car. I was interested to read in the owners manual that if you want to boost the charge to the trailer, drive with the headlamps on. Gotta go camping now to test it!

The support rep told me they actually ship the vehicles with a fuse in the glove box. I didn't find it, but the car is a year old.

Thanks one and all. And yeah! What response! 24 in 24.
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Old 11-01-2005, 02:41 AM   #28
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keep in mind that the plug is now energized all the time, if you stop for the night and run your furnace you may need a jumpstart in the morning!

that is why i isolated my second battery as shown in the above thread.

you can just pull the plug when you park...

john
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Old 11-01-2005, 05:31 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by john hd
keep in mind that the plug is now energized all the time, if you stop for the night and run your furnace you may need a jumpstart in the morning!

that is why i isolated my second battery as shown in the above thread.

you can just pull the plug when you park...

john
This is not the same on all vehicles. My Tundra only powers the trailer when the ignition is on.
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Old 11-01-2005, 07:54 AM   #30
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had a very similar situation last year. didn't seem like I was getting any charge from the TV. Turned out that I had blown the fuse that is located in the distribution box under the hood.

In this case, Dodge DOES install the fuse at the factory in trucks equiped with the tow package. However, they DO NOT tell you anything about it. there is no reference to this fuse, or any other under-the-hood fuse, in the owner's manual. I had to find out of its existance, and location from my friends on the dodge truck forums.

another thing specific to dodge: there is power to this circuit 100% of the time, regardless of the position of the ignition switch.
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Old 11-01-2005, 08:31 AM   #31
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I remember long ago that when you wired your TV for towing, adding a battery isolator was standard fare. I've just gotten into the habit on overnights where we stay hitched up, to pull the trailer's plug out of the TV, just in case. I've never checked the pins on my GM van to see if I could pull power after the ignition is turned off.

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Old 11-01-2005, 09:13 AM   #32
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My Chevrolet van also only powers the pin when the key is on, and the engine is running. I haven't seen this on other tow vehicles I have owned, but it seems like a good idea.
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Old 11-04-2005, 10:40 AM   #33
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Thanks to everybody on this thread, it reminded me that on a recent trip with the new TV, I had no battery charging, so I did a quick check on my new TV, and the dummy plug was still in it. It has been replaced and I am good to go. Thanks All!
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Old 01-31-2006, 12:55 PM   #34
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And thanks to you all once more - after running out of juice in the Smokies last fall, I was puzzled that not even driving all day was enough to get even a little charge.

I found this thread, found the dummy fuse right where you guys told me, plugged in a 40amp fuse and now am in business. Sure is hard to figure why Chev doesn't install it in the first place. Or at least mention it someplace.

By the way, just in case you haven't had the pleasure of having your battery going completely dead at bedtime, the propane detector peeps at irregular intervals all night long when it doesn't have sufficient power to operate. (The bells, the bells - arrggh).

Thanks again - Pat
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Old 01-31-2006, 01:36 PM   #35
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Quote:
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I found this thread, found the dummy fuse right where you guys told me, plugged in a 40amp fuse and now am in business. Sure is hard to figure why Chev doesn't install it in the first place. Or at least mention it someplace.
Thanks again - Pat
Pat, I can only speak for the van side of the world and I was in the same boat with my Chevy van and now my GMC. In this case I assume they put a dummy inplace due to the fact that the factory towing package wiring on vans is not terminated into a recepticle in the rear. On some of my older GM vans the hot lead was not terminated under the hood but left as a wire with a round loop connecter on it.

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Old 01-31-2006, 06:38 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wildwoodrver
Mystery resolved. GM ships these vehicles with a dummy fuse in the fuse box. A quick call to the excellent support staff at GM resolved it. Unfortunately, the fuse is labeled "Stud 1." The description is auxillary power. It was pretty obvious as it was the only "dummy" in place. I guess they wanted to leave the option open to use it for other "auxillary" purposes (not just trailer charging circuit).

So with a 40 amp fuse in place, I get 12v at the pin on the back of the car. I was interested to read in the owners manual that if you want to boost the charge to the trailer, drive with the headlamps on. Gotta go camping now to test it!

The support rep told me they actually ship the vehicles with a fuse in the glove box. I didn't find it, but the car is a year old.

Thanks one and all. And yeah! What response! 24 in 24.
My '01 2500hd came with the rolled up harness to plug into the under dash convenience center and then to the brake controller. A tag with instructions complete with drawing of where the plug was to go was attached. I can't remember if the 40 amp fuse was taped to the tag or if it was in a small envelope attached. It sure made things easy.
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Old 08-22-2008, 05:33 PM   #37
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look for a battery isolator
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