Batteries dead after 9 days.

[quietguy]

Originally Posted by DAVID A COEN

Yes, no doubt. However, even if it wasn't on Storage, shouldn't the batteries lasted longer than 9 days?

No. If not in store mode, absolutely not. If in store mode 2 weeks at best.

[Mikebrady62]

You might also just have dead batteries. They get neglected just sitting on the dealers lot. They are more than likely over a year old by now. If that is the case your dealer should replace them under warranty.
That is what happened to me.
Good luck!

[HiHoAgRV]

Originally Posted by DAVID A COEN

On another subject, can you tell me how to change my name when I post a message? I am currently using my real name but I would like to change my name to a nickname.

Use the 'Contact Us' link at the bottom of the page to get to an admin

[jimdelane]

Sounds like you have either a charging issue or a capacity issue. If there is a breaker or fuse that is preventing the battery from getting a charge - simply fix that and you should be good.
Battery capacity is a different issue. AGMs are a VRLA or valve regulated lead acid battery. Charge and capacity are not the same thing. You can charge a battery to full capacity and it will show 12.8V. Full capacity is relative to the condition of the battery. A new battery will have full capacity... say 100Ah. If a lead acid battery sits in a partially charged state of less than 90% for an period of time it dies. Also, it a battery sits and is not charged it will self-discharge and die. More specifically, sulfates form on the lead plates as a function of discharging. Sulfates are dissolved back into the electrolyte solution when you recharge the battery. If you do not force the sulfate back into solution through charging then sulfate crystals form on the plates and stops it from accepting charge where the crystals are. Get enough crystals and poof goes the capacity. That is why it is recommended to bring the battery to 100% daily if possible.
Equalization (conditioning) uses higher voltage to blow the sulfate crystals off the plates. There is some lead loss but deep cycle batteries have thick plates. Most AGM manufacturers do not recommend equalization because it dries out the electrolyte. Lifeline recommends it as a last resort when you see capacity loss.
Remember that regardless of the battery chemistry, you only have limited numbers of cycle life. With lead acid you will lose life if it sits uncharged, if it sits in a partially charged state, if it is hot (50% for every 10 degrees C over 25C), if it gets too cold. AGMs will get you maybe 500-600 cycles. Flooded will get you 500-600. Lithiums will get you 2000-3000.
Also, when you buy AGMs - spend the money on Lifeline or Trojan. They are better built and will last longer. Consider lithiums are an alternative. They cost more but have twice the usable capacity (needing 1/2 the capacity of AGM), light weight, no problems with partial charged state storage and last forever. When you buy a cheap battery you get.... well... a cheap battery.
http://lifelinebatteries.com/wp-cont...cal-Manual.pdf

[Bmccorm]

Originally Posted by DAVID A COEN

On another subject, can you tell me how to change my name when I post a message? I am currently using my real name but I would like to change my name to a nickname.

Sign in, menu, user cp, then you can list a custom screen name

[CruizinDux]

Originally Posted by DAVID A COEN

Thanks for your reply. I did use the battery disconnect inside the door and I did have the shore power plugged in. I do not know if the inverter was on. Can you describe to me what I need to do to make sure it is on in the future? I do not have solar panels. Thanks for your advice and assistance.

David, parasitic draws are devices whose power is not affected by the store switch, meaning in the store podition, would still draw voltage from the batteries. Common examples are the propane detector, the radio, the inverter and the woofer. Someone commented that AS finally changed the propane detector. Something to verify with the dealer. Parasatic draws kill batteries.

As many have stated, and i'm in that club too, likely destroyed by dealer while on the sales lot. I would suggest first, get them load tested by an independent battery shop. If good i would buy a c-tek or batter tender and hook up to the batteries. Personally i would disc the neg side cable on the battery and manage the battery directly and independently. I have 2 deka wet cells and for flooded wet cell they IMO are the best.

After a full charge mine takes a few days to settle down and land at 12.74 vdc or so (full charge) I manage mine on the work bench storage has no shorepower. good batters should stay close th this for the better part if a month. The last time i tracked mine, after 3 months they metered at about 12.0 vdc (88% or so). If i'm in storage, i plug in the c-teck when it reaches 12.5 or 80%.

If they've bad, likely the dealer will not admit guilt, so i would just go and buy a couple of deka's and smart charger if you generally have SP. If you have no power in your garage, remove them to a place wuth power so you can keep an eye on them. If you Boondock mostly, lots of other agm etc/solar option of which i have no experience.

Lastly buy a reasonably accurate ele meter and utube how to use it. In my tool bag it is my best and most often used friend.

[CruizinDux]

BTW, you indicated the batteries were dead. No lights, no jack or did you measure the voltage. If the latter how low was it. 12.1 is 50% and officially dead. Each deep cycle past 12.1 take time off the life span. Under 10 serious damage.
Bob

[CruizinDux]

Originally Posted by CruizinDux

David.....

..... The last time i tracked mine, after 3 months they metered at about 12.0 vdc (88% or so). If i'm in storage, i plug in the c-teck when it reaches 12.5 or 80%.

ooops...make that 12.6 or so


b

[jayhawk1956]

The Jack wouldn’t work so I hand cranked it. No lights as well.

[thewarden]

Mine has been sitting at the AS dealer waiting for repairs for the past 5 weeks. I asked them to plug it in to save the batteries but they won't, no surprise. I am sure my stock Interstates will be dead beyond rescuing. As the dealer is 200 miles from me not much I could do to save them.

I always meant to install a battery cutoff but did not. I was scheduled to have solar installed and switch over to lithium this summer but those plans got scuttled by the border closures due to Cyrus the Virus.

It is an unfortunate fact that AS has a parasitic draw that will drain even a brand new set of wet cell batteries in about 12-14 days even with the switch in store mode. I know this because that is what happened to me when I first got my AS. When it happened the first time I went back to the dealer as I thought the batteries were no good and after some discussion they replaced them.

Happy as a clam I took it home, parked it, and when I went back less than 2 weeks later, dead as a stone. Called the AS dealer and talked to the service manager who then told me that if not plugged in this is normal for AS. It would be nice if they told you this up front.

I took them to the local Interstate dealer who tested the capacity and they tested poorly so they gave me another new set.

The lessons I learned were that AS, unlike any other trailer I owned, still has a draw on the batteries even when in Store mode and that wet cell batteries do not tolerate being discharged to about 10.5 amps and suffer permanent damage as a result.

From that point on I would always make sure I was plugged in and if not for more than a few days I would disconnect the batteries. I would also condition them using a good charger with a desulfate mode every few months. My present set of batteries (4 years old) were in perfect condition. Now that I have successfully murdered a 3rd set of batteries inside of 4 yrs I will definitely install that battery cutoff switch once I replace the current set of batteries.

[gypsydad]

Originally Posted by thewarden

Mine has been sitting at the AS dealer waiting for repairs for the past 5 weeks. I asked them to plug it in to save the batteries but they won't, no surprise. I am sure my stock Interstates will be dead beyond rescuing. As the dealer is 200 miles from me not much I could do to save them.

I always meant to install a battery cutoff but did not. I was scheduled to have solar installed and switch over to lithium this summer but those plans got scuttled by the border closures due to Cyrus the Virus.

It is an unfortunate fact that AS has a parasitic draw that will drain even a brand new set of wet cell batteries in about 12-14 days even with the switch in store mode. I know this because that is what happened to me when I first got my AS. When it happened the first time I went back to the dealer as I thought the batteries were no good and after some discussion they replaced them.

Happy as a clam I took it home, parked it, and when I went back less than 2 weeks later, dead as a stone. Called the AS dealer and talked to the service manager who then told me that if not plugged in this is normal for AS. It would be nice if they told you this up front.

I took them to the local Interstate dealer who tested the capacity and they tested poorly so they gave me another new set.

The lessons I learned were that AS, unlike any other trailer I owned, still has a draw on the batteries even when in Store mode and that wet cell batteries do not tolerate being discharged to about 10.5 amps and suffer permanent damage as a result.

From that point on I would always make sure I was plugged in and if not for more than a few days I would disconnect the batteries. I would also condition them using a good charger with a desulfate mode every few months. My present set of batteries (4 years old) were in perfect condition. Now that I have successfully murdered a 3rd set of batteries inside of 4 yrs I will definitely install that battery cutoff switch once I replace the current set of batteries.

And...how many times we see this posting with same results...

[jayhawk1956]

I went out to where my Flying Cloud is stored tonight. Surprisingly, the lights worked fine when I took off the storage button inside the door. When I pressed on the battery button above the sink it read 11.6. I do not know what that means or if it is good or bad. Unfortunately, the electric Jack on the tongue still does not work. I have appreciated your advice to the thread over the past week and would appreciate additional insight.

Thanks,

Dave Coen

[jayhawk1956]

I also checked my battery type and they are Interstate RV Deep Cycle batteries as several of you suspected.

[ZOZ]

Originally Posted by DAVID A COEN

I went out to where my Flying Cloud is stored tonight. Surprisingly, the lights worked fine when I took off the storage button inside the door. When I pressed on the battery button above the sink it read 11.6. I do not know what that means or if it is good or bad. Unfortunately, the electric Jack on the tongue still does not work. I have appreciated your advice to the thread over the past week and would appreciate additional insight.

Thanks,

Dave Coen

The true measure of what life is in a battery is a load test. Remove both batteries and take them to an auto parts store and have them load tested. Then you'll know if your batteries are worth keeping.

zoz

[thewarden]

Originally Posted by jayhawk1956

I went out to where my Flying Cloud is stored tonight. Surprisingly, the lights worked fine when I took off the storage button inside the door. When I pressed on the battery button above the sink it read 11.6. I do not know what that means or if it is good or bad. Unfortunately, the electric Jack on the tongue still does not work. I have appreciated your advice to the thread over the past week and would appreciate additional insight.

Thanks,

Dave Coen

12.0 volts is considered a dead battery, 11.6 is very dead and at a point where the battery(s) are likely seriously and permanently damaged.

[jayhawk1956]

Thanks, even though you gave me bad news, I need to know it.

[gypsydad]

Originally Posted by jayhawk1956

Thanks, even though you gave me bad news, I need to know it.

Feel for you, man! As posted above; many of us have "been there"...first comes the troubleshooting advise, then the 4 stage converter recommendations, then the battery monitor recommendations, the mechanical disconnect recommendations...all good; but the batteries are likely "hosed" because they went below 40% charge...will never get back to 100%. Your under a year old; take to Interstate. They will likely charge them, and test the cells...then offer you a new set or credit toward more expensive model 's that can work; 6V or Li's perhaps... As I mentioned, I just took the 12V new batteries, sold them right away on Craigs list...(lots of used car dealers and others looking for "good deal" on batteries.) I then got the 6V Trojan T105's. They are much better all around, IMHO...better yet, would be Li...but thats big $$. Get a mechanical kill switch installed going forward what ever you do and disconnect from AS when storing.

Below is a picture of my 2014 25' with the Interstates and kill switch. Second pic is of the 2017 28' with the 6V Trojans and side throw kill switch.
Good luck!

[smsasf]

Originally Posted by Boxite

DAvid, don’t know about YOUR CO detector... mine does not run off the ships battery...it has it’s own little battery.

BUT... the PROPANE DETECTOR DOES run on the ship’s battery and many AirStreams do not have a method to disconnect it when in storage. If yours is that way, you will have to disconnect your battery Ground cable... or install shut-off switch on that battery Ground cable.

Boxite, I’d like to follow up on your comments and those of ghaynes755 two replies up with the hope of addressing my own confusion as a new owner of 2020 AS Bambi 20’ for just 1.5 weeks. Given I sent AS CS an email over month ago (before buying, with different questions) and have sent two emails to the dealer salesman and and sales manager within a couple of days of purchase, and all have gone unanswered I turn to this forum.

My 2020 Bambi Owner’s manual only references the detectors’ small batteries in regards to both the Smoke Detector and the Carbon Monoxide Detector. So I assume unless there is an error in their documentation then these two are not connected directly to the large trailer batteries. Your thoughts?

On the Propane Gas Detector that is a different story, although I am still confused. The Owner’s Manual states “Your LPG detector is wired directly to your trailer battery and incorporates a 1-amp, in-line fuse. It has no internal backup battery. In normal standby mode, the LED indicator will be green.”. I think this is whatis being referenced as parasitic drain on battery. Would you agree? However, the Atwood RV Propane Gas Detector cover plate states Warning: This alarm will not operate without power. The Green Light must be on. When I went to storage lot today I tuned on the main trailer battery disconnect switch and the stereo booted up and the Propane Gas Detector Light started flashing red for a few minutes and then turned to green. When I departed and turned off the battery disconnect switch the green light on the propane gas detector turned off. Seems that would imply if turning off the battery disconnect switch the detector is no longer a parasitic drain. Your thoughts?

PS,I do have the solar and that appears to keep batteries fully charged.
thanks, stephen

[lsbrodsky]

There have been a number of recent reports by 2020 owners that the propane detector is now switched OFF when you put the USE-STORE switch in the STORE mode. That should not be an issue if you put the switch in USE before operating your propane appliances, which you need to do for ignition or flame. I suppose one could use the stove with an external firestick so don't do that.
CO and Smoke alarms typically have AA batteries in RV's.
Larry

[OTRA15]

Originally Posted by jayhawk1956

Thanks, even though you gave me bad news, I need to know it.

FYI this Battery School is a good general read for battery maintenance issues:

http://www.batteriesnorthwest.com/batteryschool.cfm

Happy trails.

FYI
FWIW