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Old 09-19-2022, 02:20 PM   #1
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1992 29' Excella
Virginia Beach , Virginia
Join Date: Jul 2012
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Are there Good sources for Electrical System Components

Hey out there,
I'm preparing to rewire my 1992 Excella Classic.

I'm wondering what others have already discovered to be good quality sources for (RV) electrical components.

I already have a good wire resource tinnedmarinewire.com and I've already purchased the bulk on my DC wire.




I also have MaxAir fans, Bathroom Vent fan, a few puc lights (to see how they perform), and some switches for tank warmers that I installed. I've also already installed the SeeLevel II system on the tanks.

120V is more straightforward and I plan to keep it at 30A for shore power.

We prefer boondocking when we can so we already have (8) 100 watt PV panels and a nice size LiFePO4 battery bank (24V, 560AH). That said I have not pulled the trigger on a Inverter/Charger yet or circuit/fuse panels. I'm very sure we'll be installing a 24V 3000W inverter/charger. Suggestions on this are welcomed.

I'd like suggestions for USB outlets, 120V outlets, 12V outlets, Lighting, Switches, Dimmers, Electronics (TV, radio, sound system, Cell Phone and Wifi signal boosting, we have 5G Pixel 6 android phones), etc.

I'm experiencing a bit of difficulty visualizing how much lighting I need and how to determine that. My wife and do like bright light so my plan is to go bright (LED of course) with dimmers. I'm also considering lighting cabinet interiors and under cabinets for countertop workspace lighting. I'm considering puc lights and strip lights, but I've gotten some negative feed back from at least one AF member. In that case the person seems to appreciate different lighting intensity than we do as they prefer warmer light. Still, I'm asking for help, so I'm trying to be open minded.

Also, Where do I go to get some knowledge on putting together proficient wiring schematics? This is something I've never done, but can see the absolute benefit for as an installation map and for later reference if (when ) the need to troubleshoot should arise.

I know this is quite a list, but I really welcome what ever you have to offer.
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Virginia Beach, VA
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Old 09-19-2022, 04:59 PM   #2
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Waukesha , Wisconsin
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Blue Sea products are top notch. I've been very happy with them. https://www.bluesea.com

Pico makes the best crimp connectors I've found. More expensive but they use thicker metal and better insulators. They stay put.
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Old 09-19-2022, 09:56 PM   #3
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I second the recommendation for Bluesea products. After experiencing failures with other brands across the nearly 20 years I owned my sailboat, I eventually stopped using anything else besides Bluesea. Never had a problem or failure with any bluesea products.

I am also very pleased with Powerwerx for Anderson connectors, usb charging ports, SB50 connectors and general wiring products.
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Old 09-20-2022, 12:09 AM   #4
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On the USB outlets, you may want to consider just installing the old-fashioned 12v "cigarette lighter" type jacks instead. Why? Because they are more future-proof and universal -- many more gadgets from TVs to fans to CPAP machines can plug into them, and you can easily purchase small, inexpensive USB Type A or Type C or who knows what comes next adapters/multi-jack splitters into them. The data components of these connections are going to be irrelevant, you just want the power pins active.
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Old 09-20-2022, 01:47 AM   #5
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Boston , Ma
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100% this. Future proof
👏👏👏


Quote:
Originally Posted by skyguyscott View Post
On the USB outlets, you may want to consider just installing the old-fashioned 12v "cigarette lighter" type jacks instead. Why? Because they are more future-proof and universal -- many more gadgets from TVs to fans to CPAP machines can plug into them, and you can easily purchase small, inexpensive USB Type A or Type C or who knows what comes next adapters/multi-jack splitters into them. The data components of these connections are going to be irrelevant, you just want the power pins active.
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Old 09-20-2022, 06:07 AM   #6
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Not much to "future proof" in Blue Sea components. Most of them fit into the same hole as a 12v receptacle (the cigarette lighter type), and they have lots of different components which can be interchanged into their mounting plates like switches, volt meters, etc. Changes in the future are as simple as removing the four screws holding the face plate and changing out whatever receptacle you want to upgrade. I've already done this a couple of times as I've tweaked where my USB ports are, where my meter is, etc.

In my experience it's necessary to have one old-school 12v receptacle in the bedroom and one in the living area, and that's it. I'm using the Blue Sea 3-hole mounting plates, and I find it so much easier to have a pair of double USB ports and one 12v in each. That gives me 4 ports to plug in USB.

Here's one more source for quality electric supplies: https://gregsmarinewiresupply.com

Don't overlook going to your local boat dealer. Doesn't need to be a huge outfit near the ocean either, just a place that services fishing or small pleasure boats will do. They often carry lots of Blue Sea, and this gives you a chance to see it up close. They also carry a higher grade of connectors, wires, etc. than an auto supply house.
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Old 09-20-2022, 10:29 AM   #7
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2022 Interstate 24X
Carlisle , Pennsylvania
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Hi

Since you are going with a 24V main power setup, there are a lot of decisions to make. The 24V battery and 24 V inverter / charger likely mean a 24V solar controller as well. Victron would be my pick for that ( also on the inverter / charger ).

Any time you convert voltages, you lose / waste power. The best approach is usually to put as much on the battery voltage as you possibly can. 24V LED lights do exist. The same is true of things ike USB outlets:

https://www.bluesea.com/products/104...ce_Recognition

I suspect that you can get MaxAir fans in 24V though I can't point to a model number. Some digging would be involved there.

Fridges do come in 24V versions. Again, some hunting is involved in tracking them down. Boats run at 24V, so there is a market for them.

You *will* need a 12V battery to run the break away setup. Any sort of DC/DC converter there is likely to violate some obscure rule / law somewhere. A fairly small SLA 12V will do the trick so it's not that big a deal.

For those things that simply must have 12V ( those 12V outlets ), a DC/DC converter will be needed. Just how big a one depends a lot on how many loads you will have. Again, Victron would be my go-to brand. They make a variety of units with various levels of control and programability. This one is probably a good starting point:

https://www.victronenergy.com/upload...0A-100A-EN.pdf

If you want to charge the 24V battery bank via the 7 pin from the TV, you would need something similar there as well.

I happen to like these guys:

https://shop.pkys.com

as a place to shop for this stuff. They ship quick and Peter ( the owner ) is a good source of help if you run into issues. He both sells and installs this sort of gear.

Yes, there are a whole lot of assumptions in what's above. There are a lot of ways to do things. None of this is an "only one answer" or "one size fits all" sort of thing.

Bob
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Old 09-20-2022, 10:47 AM   #8
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Running with 24v is not as complicated as it seems. Most buses are 24v and many bus conversions use 24v house system and run most of their house systems on 24v. For those few device which require 12v, a step-down converter is used.

Things like Vitrifrigo and other brands of DC fridges usually self switch between 12/24 volts, as do many other devices. Many LED lights have a wide enough voltage input to accommodate both as well.

Most Victron devices come in 12v & 24v versions. A great advantage of running 24v is the smaller gauge wiring that's required, especially for things like the inverter.

Victron (and others) make DC-to-DC step down devices to power the 12v devices, and they make DC-to-DC chargers which can take the 12v input from the TV and output 24v to the batteries.

For the breakaway system, it might be a good idea to include a small stand-alone 12v battery. Lots of trailers that don't have a house system use this, and the small battery about the size of a motorcycle battery mounts in a box on/under the A-frame of the tongue. This can likely be charged from the step-down converter.
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Old 09-20-2022, 11:05 AM   #9
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DALLAS , TX
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I mentioned powerwerx in my prior response.

Recommend browsing their website. They have a lot of high quality useful products.

I have replaced all of the very slow, limited Airstream factory USB charging ports on my new 2022 GT 27FB Twin with some really capable charger from powerwerx. See below for the link. The powerwerx usb ports are compatible with all current fast charging standards and can supply 60-100w to charge laptops. Input voltage range is 12-32v. The higher the input voltage, the better the laptop charging rate. I am using a high power 12v-24v DC-DC converter to drive multiple powerwerx USB chargers at 24v. 24v input yields 60w of fast charging capability. FYI, 32v input provides 100w fast charging capability.

https://powerwerx.com/panel-usb-qc30-typec-qc40

I also used the following Anderson bulkhead connectors to provide high quality, reliable 12v power to additional accessories like Hella marine fans, Roku Ultra streaming boxes, the blu-ray player, stereo, etc.

https://powerwerx.com/panelpole-pane...e-black-single

The cool thing about Anderson connectors is that they are self cleaning. Every time you plug and unplug the connectors, it cleans the electrical contacts. This results in very robust and reliable long term operation. These are also capable of reliably handling up to 45A of current.

Here is a couple of photos of these bulkhead connectors in use on my Airstream. They are small and unobtrusive and are also available in white as well as black. Click image for larger version

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Old 09-20-2022, 12:11 PM   #10
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1949 22' Liner
1969 27' Overlander
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Walnut Creek , California
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I have not found a source for quality electrical components so I make my own. I use Square D QO breakers for both the AC and DC distribution. The enclosure is custom made so it can be any size. They can also be separate enclosures if desired. I include a Quad ANL positive distribution buss in the enclosure. A 60 amp fuse feeds the DC distribution buss. Another 60 amp protects the converter feed, a 30 amp protects the DC 2 DC charger feed, and the final 30 amp protects the solar charger feed. I wire all of my 120 volt using Stranded MC Cable with speed lock connectors. I make my junction boxes out of .050 aluminum in the FSD style for more box room. This is the best way for sure. If you have questions just ask.
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Old 09-20-2022, 12:21 PM   #11
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1949 22' Liner
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1969 27' Overlander
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Photos
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Old 09-20-2022, 12:29 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jcondon View Post
Photos
Nice, clean installation Jcondon!
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Old 09-20-2022, 01:03 PM   #13
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2017 22' Sport
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Re-Pete View Post
Hey out there,
I'm preparing to rewire my 1992 Excella Classic.

I'm wondering what others have already discovered to be good quality sources for (RV) electrical components.

I already have a good wire resource tinnedmarinewire.com and I've already purchased the bulk on my DC wire.




I also have MaxAir fans, Bathroom Vent fan, a few puc lights (to see how they perform), and some switches for tank warmers that I installed. I've also already installed the SeeLevel II system on the tanks.

120V is more straightforward and I plan to keep it at 30A for shore power.

We prefer boondocking when we can so we already have (8) 100 watt PV panels and a nice size LiFePO4 battery bank (24V, 560AH). That said I have not pulled the trigger on a Inverter/Charger yet or circuit/fuse panels. I'm very sure we'll be installing a 24V 3000W inverter/charger. Suggestions on this are welcomed.

I'd like suggestions for USB outlets, 120V outlets, 12V outlets, Lighting, Switches, Dimmers, Electronics (TV, radio, sound system, Cell Phone and Wifi signal boosting, we have 5G Pixel 6 android phones), etc.

I'm experiencing a bit of difficulty visualizing how much lighting I need and how to determine that. My wife and do like bright light so my plan is to go bright (LED of course) with dimmers. I'm also considering lighting cabinet interiors and under cabinets for countertop workspace lighting. I'm considering puc lights and strip lights, but I've gotten some negative feed back from at least one AF member. In that case the person seems to appreciate different lighting intensity than we do as they prefer warmer light. Still, I'm asking for help, so I'm trying to be open minded.

Also, Where do I go to get some knowledge on putting together proficient wiring schematics? This is something I've never done, but can see the absolute benefit for as an installation map and for later reference if (when ) the need to troubleshoot should arise.

I know this is quite a list, but I really welcome what ever you have to offer.
WFCO is the RV standard, most Airstream use WFCO . I replace the converter on my 2015 16' Sport purchased direct. Local AS dealer in Las Vegas price was charging 2X. Their phone support was fantastic.

https://wfcoelectronics.com/
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Old 09-20-2022, 01:26 PM   #14
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1949 22' Liner
1969 27' Overlander
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Here is another one I wired. This one has the ANL distribution block in the gutter. All wiring went into the back of the gutter and the panels mounted above with the batteries, solar charger, and converter below. All wiring is concealed. The panels connect to the gutter with nipples. I used 90 degree MC connectors with the threaded part into the gutter. Here are some photos.
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Old 09-20-2022, 01:29 PM   #15
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1969 27' Overlander
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Here are the junction boxes
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Old 09-20-2022, 03:15 PM   #16
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Jcondon, I must say this is very impressive work and top drawer. It is exactly the kind of thing I wish AS would do, and is indicative of smart and intelligent quality design. I mean, the way AS currently wires their trailers, tapping wiring to the outer skins, shoving excess into rats nests, etc. does not rise even to the level of third rate.

Obviously, or at least what should be obvious to the bean counters at Thor, your approach makes access, trouble shooting and upgrading not only possible but easy. Thanks for revealing just what is doable and how it should be done in the first place.
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Old 09-20-2022, 06:27 PM   #17
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Here's my recent wiring job, not quit done yet but close. I did wire in the circuit breaker from the converter to the battery. CB is shown but not wired inline yet. I used aircraft circuit breakers for the DC side. Click image for larger version

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Old 09-20-2022, 06:50 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aerowood View Post
Here's my recent wiring job, not quit done yet but close. I did wire in the circuit breaker from the converter to the battery. CB is shown but not wired inline yet. I used aircraft circuit breakers for the DC side. Attachment 422787Attachment 422788

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Cool! Are those breakers thermal only to trip? Next one check out the Square D QO breakers. These are a commercial magnetic/thermal breaker that are DC rated to 125 volts. The advantage to these is they are available at any hardware, HD, and Lowe’s anywhere you are. The price for each is about $10.50? I use the buss out of the enclosure and fabricate custom enclosures out of aluminum.
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Old 09-20-2022, 07:12 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aerowood View Post
Here's my recent wiring job, not quit done yet but close. I did wire in the circuit breaker from the converter to the battery. CB is shown but not wired inline yet. I used aircraft circuit breakers for the DC side. Attachment 422787Attachment 422788

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Is that duplex marine wire for the DC circuits?

Looks like you've done this a time or two, and the result is neat & tidy and done right.
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Old 09-20-2022, 07:32 PM   #20
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1949 22' Liner
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jcondon View Post
Here are the junction boxes
The best source that I have found for the stranded MC Cable is Lowes.Com. It will have to be brought into your local store for will call. I buy the 250' rolls of 12/2 and 14/2 because I use it up. They do offer 100' rolls I believe. Make sure to use stranded. The metal cladding protects the conductors completely and provides an additional grounding path. Lowes.com SKU# follows.
Item #33004
Model #69114701
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