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Old 09-15-2006, 11:08 AM   #1
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1976 26' Argosy 26
St. Albert , Alberta
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Anyone have a Wiring Diagram?

Hi all,

Can someone direct me to a wiring diagram for the airstream (Argy26 in particular, but I think a generic drawing will work fine) I'm educating myself on basic electric wiring...but it's getting a little fatiguing. I'm waiting for a couple library books to come in that explain RV maintenance and repair, so I'm hoping that will help. But I'm laying out my Argy26 rebuild and want to make sure that the basic wiring provisions are made for (grammar?).

Cheers!
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Old 09-15-2006, 03:53 PM   #2
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I can fax you a generic one, should help.
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Old 09-15-2006, 05:08 PM   #3
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You might PM balgrn. He's in to Argosys and has a CD and also I believe manuals for several of the Argosys. I have a 24' 1978 Argosy with the owners manual; however, it's down at the lake and I'm not certain it has anything that in depth. PM me is you cannot get anything else and I'll look.
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Old 09-15-2006, 06:16 PM   #4
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Grounding through the Frame necessary?

Hi all,

Can't the low voltage DC system have two wires running back from any light to the ground at the trailer-to-truck plug instead of using the frame? Is the frame used just for convenience so that two wires don't have to be run back? What about the integrity of the frame itself, maybe the ground isn't complete? I'm just thinking back to all those toys I've taken apart that always had two wires running back to the battery, is that just because there was no "frame" in that case to ground to? Is that why some flashlights use the casing as the return to the negative? Are these terms I'm using correct?

Thanks! I think I'm slowly getting it, and what a great learning community this forum is!!!

Cheers!
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Old 09-15-2006, 09:26 PM   #5
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Chopper, You could indeed run two wires to anything 12v electrical. It could and would most likely be a nightmare, giving that many more places where a wire could be shorted or cut. I guess the best ground one could wish for would be a braided copper wire run from front to back, connected to the batterey, and all ground wires connected to it. A frame ground, IF all connections to it are clean, uncorroded, and the frame is intact, has very suffucient integrity. Connection points, and materials they are made from, are the important aspects to make your electrical items work well.
Good luck with your project....
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Old 09-15-2006, 10:15 PM   #6
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Thanks, I thought so!

Steelbird (love the name!)...I'm not tearing open the interior skin, so I can't track down loose wires or confidently ground to the frame. What I can do is run new wiring along the inside of the cabinets that run entirely along one side of my new design, I have loads of space to run a conduit (a wide diameter one too), so I think I will run two wires to everything, I'm thinking of a cord that has two wires in it. At least that will make it "easy" for me. Thanks for the confirmation!

Cheers!
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Old 09-16-2006, 06:01 AM   #7
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Chopper,That sure sounds like a lot of work, however, it will ensure a very good ground. You might use a google search to find a good braided ground cable (they used them extensively for lightening grounds on barns, commercial buildings, etc, a few years ago) that you can run from one end to the other, and then you could connect to it with a solder joint all along the way. Might keep it neater.
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Have no intention of arriving at the grave safely, but rather to skid in sideways, chocolate in one hand, throttle in the other, totally worn out and screaming
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Old 09-16-2006, 06:25 AM   #8
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7-pin and Internal 12V are two different systems?

Let's see if I've got this right: The 7-pin connector electrical system from the tow vehicle will supply the power for the trailer turn/brake/backup lights and the brakes? And the tow vehicle can also provide 12V power for the rest of the trailer, but that's through the line that charges the trailer battery?

Thanks!
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Old 09-16-2006, 09:03 AM   #9
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On our research Aircraft, all the grounds are brought back to, or home runned, to one common ground. Its more work at the begainning but worth it in the long run. No more looking for bad grounds. We do seperate the AC from the DC and the 400Hz from the 60Hz. Chasing after bad grounds is a major frustration. I plan on doing this on my 71 glogetrotter when I get to the point of its rewire.

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Old 09-21-2006, 03:35 AM   #10
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Grounding 12V in RV

Hi Chopper, Direct grounding is the way to go, othervise you relay on loose rivet connections. It is more work but if you solder and heat shrink every connection you will never need to repair them. When soldered and H. shrinked a wire breakage in stranded wire is almost unheard of . It is even more critical with trailer running lights where the hitch ground can be intermittent. Have you tried to repair running lights on the road in a downpour? It is not my kind of fun. Go the extra inch. boatdoc.
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Old 09-21-2006, 03:46 AM   #11
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Hi Chopper: Your trailer running lights must be separate from your trailer battery. Also the original Airstrem wire arrangement in the 7 pin connector is different from today's standard wiring code in new vehicles previred in towing packages. Do keep the two systems separate. "boatdoc"
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Old 09-21-2006, 07:58 AM   #12
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Search "intellipower" install

somewhere there I have my 12 volt converter wiring diagram (self made) for our Argosy. It is pretty basic - but I don't want to confuse you with my memory - I'd rather you look at what I posted. Specifically, I can't remember if the 7 pin 12v lead goes to the fuseblock first, or the converter, but it (positive) goes to the battery. The converter is plugged into (3 prong plug) to your 120 v. line.

Arrgh- I wish I could remember, but it made sense at the time. The shell is used for ground in all the 12v circuts.
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Old 09-21-2006, 10:11 AM   #13
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Oh, the SHELL is used for the ground! Gotcha

That makes sense to use the shell I guess. But I still intend to rewire using a two-strand with a direct ground (and I'll solder and heat shrink the connections, thanks).

I see that what I thought were powered lights on the skirt are just reflectors. I also see that one's missing (streetside front) and when removing the rub rail, the streetside rear fell off. Hmmm, at least I don't have to wire these ones!

Cheers!
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Old 09-22-2006, 06:14 AM   #14
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Hi Chopper: I have the original 1973 26' Argosy Manual and the wiring diagram for the running trailer lights as well as the Low Voltage 12V distribution panel. Be glad to mail you copy of the entire manual. "boatdoc' E-mail boatworksbyroman@cavtel.net
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Old 09-22-2006, 09:49 AM   #15
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1976 26' Argosy 26
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Thanks!

Boatdoc,

I'll email you from the office. Thanks! Also, thanks to Bob for a fax of the electrical layout! Between the two, I should be able to redo the system!

I spent (too much) time at Home Depot in the electrical asle yesterday and got enough of an idea of what's available that I think I can get this done. Plus I build houses on the side, so my electrician's going to do a once over of my efforts regarding the 120V AC system as a precaution.

Cheers!
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