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Old 06-06-2024, 10:23 AM   #1
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2024 19' Bambi
Essex , New York
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 17
Another beginner and DC to DC

I've done my homework and searched here but am breaking down and asking for guidance. DC wiring is a display of patience for me.
I'm installing a Orion, isolated, 18 amp DC to DC charger in a month old 19' Bambi CB. Was I wide eyed when I removed the seat panels and discovered the "rat's nest" you all speak of. I'll need to find a way to remove the whole seat top as access is terrible, but that's down the road.
Anyway, mission is to find the 7 pin positive wire which I assumed was 10 gauge, and black. After visually tracing and losing the scent under the seat, all I could come up with is the one in the following pics. Its connected to a larger gauge red wire that feeds through a fuse box and then into the positive buss bar (who knew the buss bars would be laying on the floor). Is that the one I'm looking for. Have a meter but not sure how to check.
If that's the one, then I'm thinking to cut it and lead incoming to input of charger, connect the output of charger to fused area before buss bar. Leave negative alone, and run a 10 guage wire to negative buss bar. Is that correct?
Hope my pictures loaded, if not I'll follow up with another post.
Thanks so much for your time and help
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Old 06-06-2024, 10:56 AM   #2
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2023 25' Globetrotter
2021 16' Bambi
Forest Lake , Minnesota
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Congratulations on the new Bambi! And welcome to the rat's nest. We had a 16' Bambi we loved but later on moved up to a 25' Globetrotter. I had to squeeze an inverter and another solar controller and a shunt into that space (no DC-DC though), so it can be done.

Anyways, with our 25' I was able to figure out the charge wire by looking at the schematic in the manual and inferring from the wire colors on the bus which one it was. I checked the 2024 Bambi manual and it looks like in your bottom picture it's the black wire.

I'm not sure if I followed your connection description, but it should be something like: disconnect the charging wire from the bus and connect to the DC-DC input, jumper the negative input and output with a small piece of wire and run a 10AWG wire from it to the negative bus bar, run another 10AWG wire from the positive output to the positive bus bar with an inline fuse (20A or so).

I think with the 18A charger you need to connect the umbilical to power it and configure it for the batteries you're using. With our TV the charge line is fused to 15A, so the 18A charger didn't work. You also might want to confirm your TV fusing. It can also draw more than 18A, so there needs to be some margin.
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Old 06-06-2024, 11:20 AM   #3
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2023 25' Globetrotter
2021 16' Bambi
Forest Lake , Minnesota
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Other unsolicited suggestions (things I did with our Bambi):
  • If you haven't installed a Victron shunt, it's pretty straightforward on the Bambi and it makes battery monitoring so much easier even with lead-acid batteries.
  • For some reason AS puts the same 150|35 Blue MPPT controller with just about every solar installation. I don't know how much solar you have but with our 90W panel I replaced it with a Smart 75|15 and sold the stock one on eBay. With the Smart you can configure it on your phone and still plug in the solar monitor.
  • I also put in another Victron MPPT solar controller for the external plug by splicing in and running a wire from the Zamp port. It will optimize for solar conditions of your external panels (if you have some).
  • If you don't already have lithium batteries, consider getting them sooner than later. They make a big difference if you boondock very much. IMHO you don't have to get top of the line BBs.
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Old 06-06-2024, 12:08 PM   #4
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2022 25' Flying Cloud
Tualatin , Oregon
Join Date: Apr 2021
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My vote is the black wire on your DC buss, seems in the right location for the schematic that JeffKim posted. You can test by removing off the buss and testing for 12-14v from your tow vehicle. It does depend on your tow vehicle and when it powers up the 7-pin but trailer hooked up, 7-pin connected you should be able to test for voltage, then drop the 7-pin connection and verify 0v.

Steve
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Old 06-06-2024, 02:41 PM   #5
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2024 19' Bambi
Essex , New York
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Thanks.
I was thinking the black wire on the buss bar goes to the tongue jack,could be wrong but that's easy enough to check. Only two black wires visible to me.
I do plan to add lithium, trailer came with a single wet cell battery, not even deep cycle so that has to change quickly. It did come with a victron shunt though, hoping its sufficient. Lots of learning ahead for me. Would like to be off grid for a few days without having to use the generator. Electric fridge adds to the learning curve.90 watt solar panel and a few as yet undetermined lithiums should get me through.
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Old 06-06-2024, 03:22 PM   #6
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HOLLAND , NY
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I am putting in a 30 amp dc to dc roght now. Running 6 gauge wire battery to battery with breaker at vehicle battery any fuse at camper battery bank. With Smart shunt, neg. connection on opposition post of battery connection.
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Old 06-06-2024, 03:43 PM   #7
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2022 25' Flying Cloud
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I think you'll find the red cable with the fuse block goes to your jack.
Check and advise


Steve
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Old 06-06-2024, 05:28 PM   #8
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2024 19' Bambi
Essex , New York
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TitusNW View Post
I think you'll find the red cable with the fuse block goes to your jack.
Check and advise


Steve

You're probably right. Seems odd to have a 10 gauge black wire from the jack be mated to what looks like an 8 gauge red, then fused then stuck to the side of the buss bar close to the power cables.
You've given me enough to go on .
Thanks once more.
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