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Old 11-02-2006, 07:12 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by Zeppelinium
. . . Your converter is already protected, but you need to replace the 25 amp fuzes with something bigger. I'm guessing they ran out of 40 or 50 amp fuzes the day they shipped your unit.

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I hope you're joking.
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Old 11-02-2006, 07:18 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by rama777
Mark, what do you mean by "distribution side", I thought the fuse panel was the distribution panel as well. Uhoh.
By distribution side, I meant where all the 12v supplies come together- the battery, the converter, and the charge line.

As opposed to all the "users" of 12V, like the lamps, pumps, etc., which can be wired from your fuse panel.

Also, the three 25A fuses give you 75A total load capability. Don't upsize the fuses.
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Old 11-02-2006, 07:50 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markdoane
...
Also, the three 25A fuses give you 75A total load capability. Don't upsize the fuses.
Are you positive this is the way it's wired? The Canadian version has three fuses, the US has two (in the online manual). My 30 amp and 40 amp unit have two. The real point is that the manual says that both the positive and negative line are fused to protect from reversed polarity battery connection. This leads me to the conclusion that the fuses are not in parallel, one for each side. I know that doesn't make any sense, for a 60-amp unit to have 25 amp fuses, except that they are in parallel.

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Old 11-02-2006, 08:19 PM   #24
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Maybe Rama and I both have the Canadian Version.

I don't think that the positive and negative sides are fused separately. If you hook it up to a battery backwards, you will blow the fuses, which are wired parallel and connected to the positive side.

There is no overcurrent protection in the Intelipower. There is only direct short circuit protection, as if you short across the pos and neg sides. I would definitely put in external overcurrent protection devices, like circuit breakers.
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Old 11-02-2006, 09:57 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markdoane
...
I don't think that the positive and negative sides are fused separately. If you hook it up to a battery backwards, you will blow the fuses, which are wired parallel and connected to the positive side.

There is no overcurrent protection in the Intelipower. There is only direct short circuit protection, as if you short across the pos and neg sides. I would definitely put in external overcurrent protection devices, like circuit breakers.
I went back and read the manual closely and I do believe you are correct.

http://www.progressivedyn.com/PD9200_Manual.pdf

So, looks like RAMA777 needs one more big fuse.

I'm still wondering why my reverse polarity fuses are bigger on the 30-amp unit than they are on the 40-amp unit.

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Old 11-02-2006, 10:26 PM   #26
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I'm still wondering why my reverse polarity fuses are bigger on the 30-amp unit than they are on the 40-amp unit.

Zep
The way I read it is you should have one 30a fuse on the 30 amp unit, and 2 - 25a fuses on the 40 amp?

I can see the confusion if you have two fuses on the 30amp unit.
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Old 11-03-2006, 04:40 PM   #27
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So I'll just put an isolated 30A fuse on the charge line just outside the fuse panel since the board can't take the fuse. I'll ground the fuse panel as well as the converter, plug the positive and negative from the converter straight into the fuse panel without any additional fuses and then hope for the best! Sound OK for now? I really appreciate all the input here.
Actualy, one question, I was just looking at the manual for my converter and I can't tell if it's supposed to be grounded from to places or just one. The negative line seems to be grounded as well? Is that just for when you have a battery involved?
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Old 11-03-2006, 06:28 PM   #28
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The "two" grounds issue in the manual confused me, too. Just use the grounding lug and you'll be OK.

Yes, you also have to ground the negative output. Many of the light circuits depend on the skin to function as the negative path.

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Old 11-03-2006, 09:39 PM   #29
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Actualy, one question, I was just looking at the manual for my converter and I can't tell if it's supposed to be grounded from to places or just one. The negative line seems to be grounded as well? Is that just for when you have a battery involved?
Seemed pretty clear to me. Did you get a different manual? Mine is 109205 REV L 10/02.

Here's what mine says:

CAUTION RISK OF FIRE
Chassis bonding wire must be a separate wire ran (sic) directly to chassis from the grounding lug provided on the side of the converter.

DO NOT connect Output negative to chassis using the same wire.

(endquote)
. . and the picture shows two separate ground connections.

Do you need a copy of the new manual?
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Old 11-03-2006, 10:39 PM   #30
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Yeah it does show that. I guess I'll give it a double ground if that's what it says to do. As far as Zep saying to ground the negative, does that just mean that the fuse panel gets grounded? The panel I have has no negative spots, it only has four positions for grounding, so I plan on running the negative in there, and then using another grounding spot for an actual ground. Does this effectively ground my negative Zep?
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Old 11-04-2006, 10:18 AM   #31
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You can ground the negative at any point, from the converter to the fuse panel. The closer to the converter, the better, presuming it's a good ground point (eg, has good bonding to the shell, like through the skin and a vertical rib with a substantial connector, like a #10 screw and a ring or spade connector).

When I looked at the photo of your panel, it wasn't obvious that it had a set of negative terminals.

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