Affordable Approachable Lithium

[GOUSC]

I agree with you that it doesn't make sense. I don't know where it is supposed to go, I just know where it is. See pictures. I know another Globetrotter owner that had his in the same location.

[Tomzstream]

I have a GZ Yeti 3000 that I use with my 23 ft Serenity. I also have 2 180W Grape Solar panels that I mount temporarily on my tonneau cover. I simply place the GZ on the back seat of my Silverado and feed the Solar connections through the split rear window. I also run my 30 amp shore power connection through the same opening and connect to the GZ using an adapter.
The crack in the rear window is maybe half an inch, but not 100% waterproof, although I could make it that way. It is very secure. On hot days, the sun can warm the interior of the truck substantially so I open the sunroof and let the Yeti breath cool air. It does heat up while charging and discharging.

Since there photos were taken, I have acquired two more Grape Solar panels, 100W each, for a total of 560W. I have mounted all the panels on two separate Yakima racks, one attached to the tonneau cover and the other on the roof of the cab. All feed through the rear window as before. It's a sight to see. The cab roof panels, I mount only while camped.

A note on the converter, It draws a substantial amount of power from the Yeti when charging, and since the Yeti is limited to 1500W output, it can impact just what can be run in the trailer on 120V. It's also inefficient to convert the Yeti's low voltage lithium to 120V to let the converter change that to 12V for charging the house batteries. I try to keep the house batteries topped off with other sources.

BTW, Anyone with a late model Silverado, particularly the power rear window, Canada has recently issued a recall for a problem with the rear defroster circuit shorting and causing a fire. Do not use the defroster! The US has not yet issued a recall.

Cheers!

[GOUSC]

Thanks for the info Tomzstream,

I guess that answers my question as to why you need the converter in the “off” position. As a test today, I turned my converter off by turning off the breaker to it. I then ran my roof fan and some lights on the inside to run my batteries down some and make sure my factory solar would charge them back up. They ran down to around 12.4V and then the factory solar kicked in and at the end of the day they were at 12.9V. That told me that my solar will charge my batteries back up with the converter off. Something I was not fully aware of previously.

We went on a 5-week trip last fall that was typical of how we use our RV. We probably boondocked 3 of the 5 weeks and had electrical service the other 2 weeks. We usually boondock for 4-5 days and then have hookups the other times. I also have a Honda EU2000 generator. I probably only used 1 gallon of gas, max, with the generator over this 5 weeks. That would have been to run the microwave, coffee maker, hairdryer or re-charge batteries due to rainy / cloudy weather. Other than that, the factory solar and tow vehicle kept our batteries charged.

There were 2 instances where we had 12V power issues. The first was in Monarch Pass, CO Nat’l Forest. It got down to27 degrees at night and 37 degrees inside the RV. I did not feel that our batteries would last the night to run the furnace as they were down to 50% at midnight so I turned the furnace off. The second was at Desert View CG at the Grand Canyon. We had rain / clouds for 2 days so our solar was not able to keep the batteries charged as much as I liked. In both these instances I feel like this Goal Zero 1000 set up would have worked, even if I had to use it in conjunction with the converter to supplement the batteries to get me through that night in Colorado or the day at Desert View. In both instances we would have had full hookups within the next day or tow to recharge the Goal Zero.

I would appreciate your thoughts if this is a realistic expectation.

We are taking a 2 month trip to Texas in Sept – October. I am considering getting the Goal Zero 1000 for this trip and taking my generator as a back up plan. My hope is that I won’t have to use my generator. I will operate the Goal zero from my truck bed. If this works then I will look to hire someone to see if I can get it set on the inside similar to Pteck’s set up.

My last question is should the 1000 be sufficient for how for my uses? I’m afraid the 2000 or 3000 will be too big to locate on the insider of the RV. We basically use the cook top to boil water for coffee with a Chemex / water for Oat meal or Oat bran for breakfast. We have salads for lunch and use the grill or oven for dinner. Water heater for washing dishes / showers. Microwave only occasionally. Refrig on propane. We have rechargeable USB fans to move air and Goal zero USB rechargeable LED light at night time.

[pteck]

GOUSC, your questions and assumptions in regard to my setup are all correct. Indeed, I typically have my converter turned off. Turning it on would actively transfer power form the GZ to the house batteries which I don't really need.

Yet in a pinch, you are correct that the GZ can easily support the 12V loads, including furnace through the night if necessary, via the converter.

The GZ in the truck is not a bad way to set this up really if you don't mind having to run the umbilical cord between the truck and the AS input port. Lots of opportunities in this setup too, including installing solar to the truck as Tomzstream did.

Another opportunity is to install higher power chargers in the car. You could stack up to 3x Yeti car charger for up to 30amps charging. Or the big boy 50amp Yeti Link Car charger.

You may also want to know that the GZ Yeti 1400 model and higher ones allow for remote control and monitoring of the GZ battery via WIFI. One can turn the inverter on/off via cell phone. Potentially desirable if again locating the battery in the car. Though it is significantly more expensive for incrementally more capacity.

[GOUSC]

Tomzstream and Pteck – Thanks for your responses and info. It’s apparent you both have valued experience in this area. I think the GZ1000 would serve my energy needs. Although the WiFi feature is appealing, I’m not sure it is worth the extra $800 for that alone. Having said that, cost is not the driving factor. The driving factor is to purchase the right Goal Zero the first time.

If this does everything I envision it to, the goal would be to hire someone to fit it in my Globetrotter and do the transfer switch as described. The 1400 weights 44 lbs and the 100 weighs 40lbs so that is a wash. The 1400 is 10.1” X 15.3” X 10.4”. The 1000 is 10.1 X 15.3” X 9.3. The only difference is the 1400 is 1.1” higher than the 1000.

There is no room behind my fuse panel to store it. We have slide out drawers beneath our beds that I don’t want to disturb. There is a space at the foot of my bed that is 10.5” deep, see attached pictures. There is no limitation with regard to height and width. Since both of these are 10.1” long, either would fit here but if I have to plug anything into them there appears to be no room. The other option would be to put it under my dinette. Either way, it would appear wires would have to be run to either location to install the transfer switch, if that can even be done.

It’s looking to me liked the truck bed may be the best option unless you guys have other thoughts. The 1400 has a remote option but you have to have WiFi for that to work. My experience has been when we are boon docking there is usually spotty, or no, cell service. If there is no cell service then the WiFi feature would be worthless if my hot spot can’t get a signal.

If I get the 1000 and it is used mainly for 120V with limited times to charge batteries with the converter, seems to me I could leave it “on” in the bed of my truck. As long as I’m not using any 120V appliances there would be no draw on it. I would then have it available for power when I need it without using a remote.

At this point, I’m thinking the 1000 is the way to go for me. If I can get it installed inside my RV then fine. If not, I can’t see where the WiFi feature would benefit me in most boondocking situations I have been in.

Since you guys have the most experience with this set up, can you let me know if I am forgetting something? Thanks again for all your thoughts in this area.

[gypsydad]

Originally Posted by GOUSC

Tomzstream and Pteck – Thanks for your responses and info. It’s apparent you both have valued experience in this area. I think the GZ1000 would serve my energy needs. Although the WiFi feature is appealing, I’m not sure it is worth the extra $800 for that alone. Having said that, cost is not the driving factor. The driving factor is to purchase the right Goal Zero the first time.

If this does everything I envision it to, the goal would be to hire someone to fit it in my Globetrotter and do the transfer switch as described. The 1400 weights 44 lbs and the 100 weighs 40lbs so that is a wash. The 1400 is 10.1” X 15.3” X 10.4”. The 1000 is 10.1 X 15.3” X 9.3. The only difference is the 1400 is 1.1” higher than the 1000.

There is no room behind my fuse panel to store it. We have slide out drawers beneath our beds that I don’t want to disturb. There is a space at the foot of my bed that is 10.5” deep, see attached pictures. There is no limitation with regard to height and width. Since both of these are 10.1” long, either would fit here but if I have to plug anything into them there appears to be no room. The other option would be to put it under my dinette. Either way, it would appear wires would have to be run to either location to install the transfer switch, if that can even be done.

It’s looking to me liked the truck bed may be the best option unless you guys have other thoughts. The 1400 has a remote option but you have to have WiFi for that to work. My experience has been when we are boon docking there is usually spotty, or no, cell service. If there is no cell service then the WiFi feature would be worthless if my hot spot can’t get a signal.

If I get the 1000 and it is used mainly for 120V with limited times to charge batteries with the converter, seems to me I could leave it “on” in the bed of my truck. As long as I’m not using any 120V appliances there would be no draw on it. I would then have it available for power when I need it without using a remote.

At this point, I’m thinking the 1000 is the way to go for me. If I can get it installed inside my RV then fine. If not, I can’t see where the WiFi feature would benefit me in most boondocking situations I have been in.

Since you guys have the most experience with this set up, can you let me know if I am forgetting something? Thanks again for all your thoughts in this area.

As I read this with interest in doing the same, I think I would rather have it at the foot of my bed inside and not have to worry about the hassle of connecting/hauling out my big 50A cord to the back of my truck.

Looks like you have the "twin" model? isn't there another storage on the floor in front/foot of the left side bed also? (There is room in front of both beds in my 28' model)

Also interested in recommendations on where to get best deal on these? Amazon or where? We are still in MT where no sales tax...

[pteck]

@GOUSC - I'm not completely familiar with your floor plan. But here's some other thoughts that may or may not help in locating a battery.

Some ideas:
1) Do you have a couch next to the fridge with a lower storage compartment?
2) Perhaps even the lower storage cabinet in the rest room though that might be really tight to squeeze in even with modifications?
3) I think you have a front external storage bay in the bedroom under the twins? I added an interior access door for this and it would definitely be large enough to accommodate the battery:
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f46/...ls-196198.html

[GOUSC]

Gypsydad and Pteck - good suggestions.
The other bed has 11 1/4” of depth vs 10.5” so that is an option. Adding interior access behind the propane tank area would definitely work. I know another person who used that area for interior access and that is something I have the ability to do myself. I would have to discuss with an electrician to make sure the appropriate wires could be fished to either location first.

I will start with the truck bed and work from there. Gypsydad - you don’t need to use your 30 or 50 amp cord. Since I won’t be using AC for this there is a 50 amp to 15 or 20 amp adaptor. That way you only have to run a 15-20 amp cord to the truck bed. This is more than adequate to power the microwave/ hair dryer / Television. Let me know if you want me to send you a picture.

One way or another I think this will actually work and is a great idea Pteck and Tomzstream. I finding the 1000 is out of stock at Goal Zero and is hard to find at other sources right now. I understand there was a recent sale by Goal Zero. Makes me wonder if there is a newer version of the 1000 coming out.

[Tomzstream]

Goal Zero recently had a site-wide sale of 25% off. Was a great opportunity to get all the gadgets and cables as well. This carried over to most retailers sites too. The GZ Yeti 1000 has for years been a Costco exclusive, and their price was 10% below the GZ retail site price at $999 vs $1099. Costco occasionally puts it on further sale at the price of $799. This happens around every 3 months or so. Just have to keep checking back on it. It went on sale in February and last time was May so I expect maybe another sale in August.

REI had a sale for members with 20% off a range of Yeti models as a reward to its members on the occasion of their anniversary, and then again, at 25% during the Goal Zero sitewide sale. I picked up a 3000 on the first sale, and then another during the GZ sale. I also bought a 1000 during the Costco sale. The first REI sale was for a single item only, and they do this via coupon codes. Ship to store is free. Even without the sale, the REI member discount will save you $$$ via their member dividend awarded at the end of the year, good on other REI merchandise.

As has been observed, the 1000 does not have the solar controller, but you can still use the Anderson Power Pole cable to charge through the other inputs, it's just not quite as efficient. I opted to buy the solar adapter during the GZ sitewide sale. The 3000's do have it and that adds to the value of them.

But as you probably know, Costco only lists items that are available, and currently the Yeti 1000 is not to be found on their site. I suspect GZ may be having difficulty getting parts and materials from China as are many manufacturers. And it looks like this situation is going to drag on indefinitely. It's affecting the entire RV industry.

[gypsydad]

Originally Posted by GOUSC

Gypsydad and Pteck - good suggestions.
The other bed has 11 1/4” of depth vs 10.5” so that is an option. Adding interior access behind the propane tank area would definitely work. I know another person who used that area for interior access and that is something I have the ability to do myself. I would have to discuss with an electrician to make sure the appropriate wires could be fished to either location first.

I will start with the truck bed and work from there. Gypsydad - you don’t need to use your 30 or 50 amp cord. Since I won’t be using AC for this there is a 50 amp to 15 or 20 amp adaptor. That way you only have to run a 15-20 amp cord to the truck bed. This is more than adequate to power the microwave/ hair dryer / Television. Let me know if you want me to send you a picture.

One way or another I think this will actually work and is a great idea Pteck and Tomzstream. I finding the 1000 is out of stock at Goal Zero and is hard to find at other sources right now. I understand there was a recent sale by Goal Zero. Makes me wonder if there is a newer version of the 1000 coming out.

Thanks; I still wouldn't need/want the GZ in my truck; I mean the goal is to have it in my AS for use, right? If it is done right, you should be able to use it as you describe, and also charge it while driving down the road or via your solar...seems to me, that Ptek or someone has wired in their GZ unit; why couldn't you just add a 110 cord to the supply side of your converter unit, perhaps a switch, and then just connect via a male to male cord into the circuit? That way you could just leave the GZ at the foot of your bed and connect via the cord to the added outlet; Anyone out there understand my suggestion, or am I way off base?

[rmkrum]

Male to male 120 volt cords are also known as “suicide plugs”.

At minimum a good way to get a nasty short circuit. With 120 volt AC, and humans of any age involved, a great way to get someone killed.

And no, don’t go for the “I’ll be careful” excuse. ‘Stuff happens’ and it’s no fun getting bit by 120 volt power. Use proper connectors and do it safely.

As Maxwell Smart once noted, “everyone is entitled to at least one fatal error!” Don’t set yourself or others up for a very fatal opportunity!

[gypsydad]

Originally Posted by rmkrum

Male to male 120 volt cords are also known as “suicide plugs”.

At minimum a good way to get a nasty short circuit. With 120 volt AC, and humans of any age involved, a great way to get someone killed.

And no, don’t go for the “I’ll be careful” excuse. ‘Stuff happens’ and it’s no fun getting bit by 120 volt power. Use proper connectors and do it safely.

As Maxwell Smart once noted, “everyone is entitled to at least one fatal error!” Don’t set yourself or others up for a very fatal opportunity!

Understand your concern; connecting to a receptacle is what I was advocating, so you can plug in the GZ to your AS for use and also charging...Got to be a pretty straight forward solution here.

[GOUSC]

Originally Posted by gypsydad

Understand your concern; connecting to a receptacle is what I was advocating, so you can plug in the GZ to your AS for use and also charging...Got to be a pretty straight forward solution here.

Gypsydad,

This will be my initial approach to connecting my Goal Zero. 20 amp extension to my covered truck bed. If that works then I will be looking to possibly relocating it inside. To keep it simple I would thing there would be way connect the extension cord to the inside of the RV.

Also, I found the Goal Zero in stock at REI. Reg price is 1,099. By becoming a Co-Op member you get 10% back as a dividend next March. If becoming a new member you also get a $20 off card off your next purchase. Ended up being $130 in savings off of the retail price. Ship free to a store for pick up.

[Tomzstream]

The GZ Yeti 1000 is back in stock at Costco for the regular price of $999. They too have a rebate awarded to members at the end of your membership year. But I would wait for their sale price which seems to repeat every three months or so... February and May so far this year, so we may be due for another. I believe it would be 799 if my memory serves me. Keep an eye out!

[GOUSC]

Originally Posted by Tomzstream

The GZ Yeti 1000 is back in stock at Costco for the regular price of $999. They too have a rebate awarded to members at the end of your membership year. But I would wait for their sale price which seems to repeat every three months or so... February and May so far this year, so we may be due for another. I believe it would be 799 if my memory serves me. Keep an eye out!

I was holding out for the sale as that is definitely the best deal. We are leaving after Labor Day for a 2-month trip to Texas and I wanted to have the GZ 1000 available for that trip. I’m not a Costco member so that would’ve cost me another $65. The REI rebate got me in the same ballpark as the Costco price. I’m looking forward to seeing how this works with our Globetrotter energy useage. Thanks again for all your thoughts with regard to this issue.

[The Naker]

I'm going with pteck's strategy for using the Yeti 1000 but have run into an issue.

I have a Classic 33 with 50 amp service and a hardwired Progressive Dynamics surge protector.

When I plug the Yeti into my shore power with the converter breaker off it seems to work. The Yeti is drawing about 1.5 amps with no real load on the trailer. Projector, Bose soundbar and Bluray all work great. BUT if I try to turn on the converter or the run the microwave (even at 10% power), the PD surge protector cuts the power immediately. I also tried disconnecting the battery to see if the converter would work when its not trying to charge but same issue.

Anyone have any ideas????

[The Naker]

Originally Posted by The Naker

I'm going with pteck's strategy for using the Yeti 1000 but have run into an issue.

I have a Classic 33 with 50 amp service and a hardwired Progressive Dynamics surge protector.

When I plug the Yeti into my shore power with the converter breaker off it seems to work. The Yeti is drawing about 1.5 amps with no real load on the trailer. Projector, Bose soundbar and Bluray all work great. BUT if I try to turn on the converter or the run the microwave (even at 10% power), the PD surge protector cuts the power immediately. I also tried disconnecting the battery to see if the converter would work when its not trying to charge but same issue.

Anyone have any ideas????

I'm thinking it may be the low voltage cutoff in the Progressive Dynamics surge protector. It apparently shuts off power if voltage drops below 104V. Has anyone else successfully used a Yeti 1000 or greater with a built in Progressive Dynamics surge protector?

[The Naker]

Originally Posted by The Naker

I'm thinking it may be the low voltage cutoff in the Progressive Dynamics surge protector. It apparently shuts off power if voltage drops below 104V. Has anyone else successfully used a Yeti 1000 or greater with a built in Progressive Dynamics surge protector?

In case anyone else is thinking of trying this, I have the answer.
I spoke to Progressive tech support. You can't run an inverter through the hard wired PD surge protector. This means the only option is to install a transfer switch between the PD and the breaker panel. Since I have 50 amp I was trying to avoid this but I guess I'll have to select one and give it a try.

[GOUSC]

Quote - “When I plug the Yeti into my shore power with the converter breaker off it seems to work. The Yeti is drawing about 1.5 amps with no real load on the trailer. Projector, Bose soundbar and Bluray all work great. BUT if I try to turn on the converter or the run the microwave (even at 10% power), the PD surge protector cuts the power immediately. I also tried disconnecting the battery to see if the converter would work when its not trying to charge but same issue.”

I don’t know if this will help but it depends on clarification of your previous post (above). The 1st sentence in the post states that with the converter breaker off it seems to work. The sentence with the BUT in it needs clarification to me. As I understand it, when you turn the converter "on" the surge protector cuts the power. However, when you run the microwave is the converter on or off?

If the converter is “on” when you run the microwave then that’s above my pay grade and sounds like you will need the transfer switch with the hard-wired PD surge protector. If you did it with the converter “on” then try running the microwave with the converter "off" and see if it works. If it does, then the goal zero is doing what Pteck said it would do. However, it may not do one thing you wish it could do.

My understanding from Pteck is by turning the converter “off”, your house batteries run all your 12V appliances and they are recharged by solar. The goal zero will then run all your 120V appliances, TV / projector/ Bose soundbar / microwave / coffee maker / hair dryer / etc.

Since the converter is turned off, the only thing you can’t do is also use your Goal Zero to recharge your house batteries thru the converter. This is a nice feature to have if you need it. However, if you have plenty of solar to recharge your batteries then you may be able to do without getting a transfer switch.

FYI – I decided to run my Goal Zero 1000 with the converter "on" to see what the Goal Zero battery drain was. I ran it 7 hrs and had 68% battery life left and used 300 watts of the 1,000 available. This was all converter draw and was just keeping the batteries charged the entire time.

[The Naker]

Originally Posted by GOUSC

Quote - “When I plug the Yeti into my shore power with the converter breaker off it seems to work. The Yeti is drawing about 1.5 amps with no real load on the trailer. Projector, Bose soundbar and Bluray all work great. BUT if I try to turn on the converter or the run the microwave (even at 10% power), the PD surge protector cuts the power immediately. I also tried disconnecting the battery to see if the converter would work when its not trying to charge but same issue.”

I don’t know if this will help but it depends on clarification of your previous post (above). The 1st sentence in the post states that with the converter breaker off it seems to work. The sentence with the BUT in it needs clarification to me. As I understand it, when you turn the converter "on" the surge protector cuts the power. However, when you run the microwave is the converter on or off?

If the converter is “on” when you run the microwave then that’s above my pay grade and sounds like you will need the transfer switch with the hard-wired PD surge protector. If you did it with the converter “on” then try running the microwave with the converter "off" and see if it works. If it does, then the goal zero is doing what Pteck said it would do. However, it may not do one thing you wish it could do.

My understanding from Pteck is by turning the converter “off”, your house batteries run all your 12V appliances and they are recharged by solar. The goal zero will then run all your 120V appliances, TV / projector/ Bose soundbar / microwave / coffee maker / hair dryer / etc.

Since the converter is turned off, the only thing you can’t do is also use your Goal Zero to recharge your house batteries thru the converter. This is a nice feature to have if you need it. However, if you have plenty of solar to recharge your batteries then you may be able to do without getting a transfer switch.

FYI – I decided to run my Goal Zero 1000 with the converter "on" to see what the Goal Zero battery drain was. I ran it 7 hrs and had 68% battery life left and used 300 watts of the 1,000 available. This was all converter draw and was just keeping the batteries charged the entire time.

I had the converter breaker off when trying to run the microwave. It wouldn't work. Tech support said that the hardwired Progressive Dynamics surge protector isn't compatible with an inverter power source. He said it had to do with the wavelengths not being compatible and damaging the magnets in the surge protector.

Instead of buying an expensive 50amp transfer switch and having the associated power drain and possible humming noise, I've decided to remove the PD surge protector. I'll just use one of the portable surge protectors. This is an easier, more efficient and cheaper option.