'78 Sovereign's Dometic fridge / freezer not working

[jrussjr]

So, for the last couple months I have been slowly repairing/restoring the AS and have kept drinks n stuff in fridge & freezer. I have had it running on electric for most of the time; however, after moving it some and "shimming" it to make it fit the original cabinetry, it has quit working!! Any ideas?

[idroba]

Is the refrigerator level? That is critical for operation.

Is the boiler tube on the back (right side as you face the back) hot or fairly warm? The boiler tube is the vertical square or round item on the far right side, going from near the bottom up most of the height of the refrigerator.

An answer to those two questions may help us with further comments and ideas.

[jrussjr]

I do know that the fridge is no longer as level as it once was, although it wasn't fully level since it got it in early February. I guess I'm going to remove the shim from under the fridge in order to get it back to its former state of levelness. It should be noted that when it was working, there were a few times I noticed that the unit wasn't cooling only to find it cold the next morning.

[4RXLA]

Make sure the bottom shelf of the freezer is at the same level as the a-frame just behind the coupler for starters. A bubble level will work. If your cabinetry is not level, you will have to fix it as the dometic must be level to function properly. The RM 100 is especially sensitive.

[jrussjr]

I have leveled the unit as much as I possibly could without tearing it out completely. I am just slightly off "side to side" and little more off than that "front to back". I switched unit back on (electric) about 15 minutes ago, the "coil" at rear if unit is now getting warm. Hopefully, it will work once more!

[jrussjr]

Definitely cabinetry will need to be rebuilt; however, I have noticed that on each side of trailer a considerable slope starts about 18" away from wall for the full length. I'm thinking I may have to get the flooring braced before doing anymore major interior cabinet work?!?!

[4RXLA]

You may have frame issues that need addressing before building out the interior. Hopefully not.

[Jim Lee]

We have a 78 Sovereign which came with a dometic fridge. I went through the same issues you are currently experiencing.

In my experience once it quits cooling you are better off biting the bullet and getting a new fridge.

Now, DON'T go to the internet and search for refurbished dometics. You'll come up with a bunch of places in or near Conway Arkansas. Save your money.

Buy a new one, they're about $1200 and well worth the money and will save you time and aggravation. You can save 50 bucks or so if you don't buy the front panel and just make on from paneling. I just went and bought it though.

New fridge total with shipping and front panels, about $1400.00.

Money wasted on rebuilt fridge that started on fire and liked to burn down my trailer... $800/00.

(The valve on the rebuilt fridge wouldn't turn from gas to electric. I called the shop and they told me to spray brake cleaner on the brass part of the valve in back of the refrigerator, go into the trailer and turn the valve from gas to electric several times, that'll free it up. I never got to find out because I didn't disconnect the battery and the piazza lighter ignited the brake cleaner and burned up all the wire. I'm in the trailer and wondering, 'what was that 'whoosh' sound I just heard' quickly followed by 'what's that smell' and 'where's all this smoke coming from?'

I was lucky. Insurance reimbursed me less my deductible for the burn up fridge.

You've heard it said before, and I'll say it again, the bitterness of poor quality lingers a lot longer than the sweetness of low price.

Good luck

[jrussjr]

Thanks for the advice and feedback! Will post updates/results

[jrussjr]

After an hour, freezer coolish but fridge part still warm...coils n tubing in back hot

[idroba]

it takes about 4 to 6 hours to cool down. wait a bit.

[jrussjr]

Patience is something that I need to work on, especially with things like this!!

[jrussjr]

It been a few hours now, freezer freezing but refrigerator section not cool at all. In fact, as I sit her, I occasionally hear something on the refrigerator that sounds like a pump trying to prime??

[Aage]

So, tomorrow morning, if the fridge part is still warm, the way I see it there are only three ways to go at that point:

1. Replace the "innards" (the cooling unit) or
2. Try 'burping' the refer.
3. Buy a new refer

Replacing the innards can run somewhere around $500, give or take (depends on your model). And burping is free.

The problem may be that there is a blockage somewhere in the refer's tubing. 'Burping' it means to first remove it from it's installed position, and turn it on the other three sides it has to see if you can somehow magically dislodge the blockage.

Here's one of the companies that will supply you with a brand new or re-built cooling unit. He also is a strong proponent of putting fans on/in your unit to get the max performance from it. RV Cooling Unit Warehouse

OK, it's on its bottom now, so turn it 90 degrees to the left, leave overnight, then turn it onto it's top, another overnight, turn it to its right side, another overnight wait, and you're done. Put it right side up again and re-connect and install it and see if it works better.

This method is somewhat controversial: some say it's pure baloney, others say they got years more out of their refer after doing it. The good thing is that it won't cost you a nickel to find out which is the case for you. The amount of time you leave it on the other three sides is up to you, by the way. There's no hard and fast rule I have heard for that.

One more point: I would only do the change to a new cooling unit if your refer is in good condition. You know, no cracks, the door seal is OK, the exterior and interior look good. But if they are, replacing the cooling unit isn't hard to do, and will give you "as-new" performance.

Let us know how you make out if you try that?