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Old 11-01-2006, 11:38 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by overlander63
Will local code allow coax to be run in the same conduit as power wires? If so, you can run TV cable to your trailer's parking location. You can then catch the Patriots' game on the TV while working on your trailer.
...in air-conditioned comfort, no less.

except, we don't generally need air conditioning when the Pats are playing...

maybe if they're playing Miami.



actually, the Pats are typically on "broadcast" TV, which I can pick up nicely from the driveway. But the SOX...almost exclusively on cable. AND in hot weather. So I *need* both!!

Why can't you string a piece of RG-6 in the same conduit?? I have to run a second one parallel?? (I've got a 2" pvc "chase" that runs from my basement to the attic, and in it, there are both coax and electrical runs...doesn't seem to cause any problem...).

OK. Lets compound the problem some more:
We're not getting 24" deep without dynamite. I'm sitting on top of a pile of rocks and ledge...The boulders in the attached pics were what was taken out of the ground when the house was built. There also isn't much room for a conduit between the door and the boulder-wall. I don't think I really want a huge pipe going into the house right there...I was thinking a slim 3/4"...
pvc conduit is cheap, so its a sure thing. (buck and a half for 10' length...).

So, in the pic, the service post will be just to my right. The door on the house goes into the basement...the main panel is ~10' to the left of the door. to the right of the door is a sillcock...I can connect a water line there. so there'll be a pipe running down each side of the door. the bottom edge of those boulders on either side of the door are only a few inches from the door opening, so there's not alot of room....
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Old 11-01-2006, 11:51 AM   #22
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Plan "B"

Since plan "A" never had a chance, plan "B" would be to run outdoor wire up the side of the house, and run the wire out to a pole near the trailer, down the pole to an outlet box.
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Old 11-01-2006, 12:11 PM   #23
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I'm no electrician and am sure to be pounced on for commenting - BUT - when I have done this in the past with the "relaxed" Mississippi building codes I am familure with - there is a minimum diameter of pipe for wire size and voltages you will be using and the distance requirements. Plan on informing your city or county building inspectors and they will "tell" you what you will require. If not - then your right use whatever. Burial depths change with conditions - yours are obviously different from mine. Below the frost line would be good.

BTW - I once ran a water line to a referb I was doing from the city water meter - had a 1' connector on the meter - ran 1' line. Was forced by "CODE" to replace the lines with 1.25" diameter lines and had to use an adaptor at the meter - go figure.......

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Old 11-01-2006, 12:13 PM   #24
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oh, thats just crazy talk. why does "plan a" not have a chance? we may not be able to get a whole 2'...or there just might be some big bones to pull out. I've been advised to "not bother" with a ditch-witch...I'll need to get a small backhoe or similar.

here's another view from the front corner of the house, looking down. the trailer parks where the white car is in the pic...you can see the utility pole to the right...not really any closer to the back-end of the trailer than the foundation is.
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Old 11-01-2006, 12:21 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clancy_boy
Below the frost line would be good.
that's like 4 FEET here.

when I put in my deck, we broke heavy equipment trying to do that. 8" auger mounted on a tractor's 3-point hitch. caught a boulder and ~snap~.
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Old 11-01-2006, 12:38 PM   #26
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Old 11-01-2006, 12:58 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chuck
that's like 4 FEET here.

when I put in my deck, we broke heavy equipment trying to do that. 8" auger mounted on a tractor's 3-point hitch. caught a boulder and ~snap~.
I'm probably wrong, but I thought it was 18" in conduit, and 24" for UF wire. Whatever you do, I like to lay a strip of yellow "CAUTION" tape over the conduit or wire before I backfill.

I would definitely put in two hots, a neutral, and a ground. Even though you only plan to run 120V, someday you will want to upgrade to 240V. Or maybe use a welder. Or a large electric barbeque. Or a big irrigation pump. Or lighting for your ice rink/basketball court.
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Old 11-01-2006, 04:08 PM   #28
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It's ultimately a workmanship issue

Quote:
Originally Posted by chuck
...Why can't you string a piece of RG-6 in the same conduit? ...
Obviously you can, but Code does not want you to primarily in case something was to go wrong while pulling the wires through the conduit.

While there are many possible scenarios where a wire's insulation could be nicked, let's say you nick both one of your hot wires and the insulation on your coaxial cable and the hot wire's conductor gets mashed against the coax's now-exposed braid. The coax will now be at 120 vac, and if you should happen to screw the connector on to your television you may get shocked.

If you do not get shocked, the television's guts probably will.

I decided to flirt with disaster because of the type of wire fished through the conduit. I don't recall the exact designation, but it was double-insulated with a ground braided around the two hot wires; If the outer insulation was to get knicked, anything in the conduit would only be exposed to a wire at ground potential.

Secondarily, running power & signal in the same conduit could induce noise into the signal wires. But that only typically occurs during heavy power usage. Just running the television & converter would not be a problem.

You would, however, might want to refrain from any arc-welding while the Sox are playing.

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Old 11-01-2006, 04:57 PM   #29
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50 amp

Our 34' has two AC units - hence 50 amp service. This might be more to the point about "future proofing" your electrical service. I would rather make 1 pull with sufficient juice to support a 100 amp panel, and thereby reduce the potential to have to pull more wires at a later date.

In fact, this past summer I used the 30 amp circuit to support a clothes dryer while the house was ripped apart for some remodeling.

If we have company that needs 30 amp service, we are ready to go.
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Old 11-01-2006, 05:11 PM   #30
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I do appreciate all the "go overboard" tips...but take a look at the pics. there ain't no room for anything any longer than what I've already got. Its quite a trick getting my little old 23-footer into this space as it is. If there's ever going to be a use for more than a simple 30-amp service, that mean that I must have won the mega-bucks, in which case, I don't care; I'll just pay someone to do it, whatever it costs....or move somewhere else.
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Old 11-01-2006, 05:20 PM   #31
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Bigger trailers require 50amp service whereas medium and smaller trailers require 30amp service?
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Old 11-01-2006, 05:23 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Streamer1
Bigger trailers require 50amp service whereas medium and smaller trailers require 30amp service?
Trailers with two air conditioners require 50 amp service. Each unit can draw up to 22 amps, depending on model, when starting. If they both should start at the same time, 44 amps would trip a 30 amp breaker in short order.
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Old 11-01-2006, 05:39 PM   #33
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chuck

the conduit is cheap, just bury two. one for power one for cable.

the money is in digging the trench. don't skimp on the pipe!

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Old 11-02-2006, 02:56 PM   #34
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The problem w/ multiple conduits is that there is very little space on either side of that door (see pic on page 2) where a conduit will fit at a spot where its easy to poke through into the house, and be directly above a spot of bare ground, and NOT run into one of those boulders. they stick out on the bottom toward the door. doesnt' show up in the picture very well...obscured by a pile of leaves.

Its always silly little details like that that get in the way.

I stopped at HD last night, and they did have the THHN cable in various colors...comparing to the UF cable, not a whole bunch difference in cost, but the UF looks like it would be very hard to maneuver through conduit. very stiff, in #10, anyway. pvc conduit would be less than 10 bucks...certainly no big whoop there.

So you can't put coax in the same conduit...how about a second set of conductors? like...if I ever wanted something on a regular 15 or 20 amp circuit? (I understand you're not "supposed" to put any 15amp fixture on a 30 amp circuit). Like a post lamp...maybe some low-voltage lamps above that stone wall...
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Old 11-02-2006, 03:02 PM   #35
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Yes - you can run multiple conductors in the same conduit - my home generator had a 120V inside the conduit for a battery trickle charger in the generator. I put a 120v outlet outsude on the outside wall for whatever reason t-eed off the 2" conduit going to the generator.

You're going to pave over it ???? Just get the conduit below grade and cap it with asphalt or concrete. Burying that deep is to protect you from hitting it with a shovel if the wife wants you to put a tree there later or you use a ditch witch to lay sewer pipes later. Under a slab - doubt either one of those applies.
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Old 11-02-2006, 03:15 PM   #36
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If you need to add a pull string/rope to an existing conduit, all you need is a little fishing line and a shop vac. Put a small piece of rag on the finshing line and simply use the shop vac on the other end to pull the rag and line. This works faster than it took for you to read this post. I have pulled line over 200 feet with no problem. I then use the fishing line to pull a larger rope or string into the conduit.
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Old 11-02-2006, 03:18 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clancy_boy
..You're going to pave over it ???? Just get the conduit below grade and cap it with asphalt or concrete. Burying that deep is to protect you from hitting it with a shovel if the wife wants you to put a tree there later or you use a ditch witch to lay sewer pipes later. Under a slab - doubt either one of those applies.
yeah, paving. thats why I want to do it now...don't "need" it, but I'll never get another chance to do it if I don't at least get the underground stuff in there now.
I know, no one is going to accidentally hit it with a shovel, but I think "code" still wants it down pretty deep..."why", I don't understand. But I didn't understand why coax in the same counduit would be a problem, either. so I'm sure there's a reason.
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Old 11-02-2006, 04:08 PM   #38
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yeah, paving. thats why I want to do it now...don't "need" it, but I'll never get another chance to do it if I don't at least get the underground stuff in there now.
I know, no one is going to accidentally hit it with a shovel, but I think "code" still wants it down pretty deep..."why", I don't understand. But I didn't understand why coax in the same counduit would be a problem, either. so I'm sure there's a reason.
If you get a short to the coax from the power it would be live at either end where there are metal connectors , you would also fry what ever equipment it is connected to. You could also get signal interference .
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Old 11-02-2006, 06:03 PM   #39
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chuck

clancy is correct go shallow if you are going to pave it. it is ok and allowed in most places.

years down the road if it gets repaved and someone rips it up with a bobcat you will only be out a couple of bucks.

go ahead and put two in, you can use a connector called a "LB" to address the transition issues at the house.

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Old 11-02-2006, 07:41 PM   #40
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Quote:
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chuck

clancy is correct go shallow if you are going to pave it. it is ok and allowed in most places.

years down the road if it gets repaved and someone rips it up with a bobcat you will only be out a couple of bucks.

go ahead and put two in, you can use a connector called a "LB" to address the transition issues at the house.

john
I would put an LB on the house end to transition into the house anyway - puts the pipe right up to the siding. The LB allows access to pull wires from there Below that a short piece of rigid pipe then flex around the rock/foundation issue and into the ground then sweep to go horizontal for the run to the traiier area. My 2cents worth.
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