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03-11-2021, 01:23 PM
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#21
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3 Rivet Member
Middletown
, Maryland
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 159
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The Amazon page linked to in #4 does not have enough detail about how the adapter is constructed. Here are the specs listed:
* Heavy-duty Combiner Y adapter cord, (2) 5-15P to TT-30R Y adapter cord. 100% copper wire conductor inside.
* American standard Household regular 3-prong 15 AMP 5-15 male plugs*2 for 125V.
* Camper TT-30 Receptacle 3 Pole 30 AMP male for 125V.
* Used two of 10 AWG*3 stranded copper inner wires with each 5-15 plug, support max 30 Amp overload input each.
* Used 10AWG*3 copper inner wire with TT-30 female, support output max 30 Amp overload.
It also says:
"RV 30A plug get power from (2)15A regular outlet.
When you have 2 of regular 15A 5-15 outlet on generator, and you want plug camper 30A TT-30P extension cord into them get 30A power from them.
It can NOT work if you do not plugin both of plug.(Must plugin both of two plug)"
~
So apparently it has a built-in safety feature that prevents one plug from being hot if the other one is plugged in. That's good, but I'd confirm that it works and be very careful when handling it.
Since it is sold for use with a generator, it would be easy enough to handle it only when the unit is not running.
I share the concerns of others regarding using it with residential outlets. In order for it to work, it would have to be plugged into two (2) separate outlets fed by two (2) separate breakers that are on the same leg or phase in the main panel. That could *theoretically* be done, but it would involve confirming the above, and using extension cords -- because it is rare to find outlets close together that are fed by different breakers (let alone on the same phase).
If a person were determined to try that -- and I'm not recommending it -- it would be best to use equal length extension cords, at least #12 gauge, and preferably #10.
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03-11-2021, 01:25 PM
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#22
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Rivet Master
2017 26' Flying Cloud
Tampa
, Florida
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 7,655
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03-11-2021, 01:32 PM
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#23
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Rivet Master
Currently Looking...
Evergreen
, Colorado
Join Date: Aug 2020
Posts: 2,592
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You may be able to accomplish your objective with an Easy Start unit on your air conditioner. This may allow you to run everything in your Airstream with a standard 120V, 20A extension cord plugged into an outdoor 20A outlet.
__________________
Dennis
Past:
Airstream International Serenity 23FB
Newmar Ventana 3715
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03-11-2021, 01:46 PM
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#24
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3 Rivet Member
Middletown
, Maryland
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 159
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dennis C
You may be able to accomplish your objective with an Easy Start unit on your air conditioner. This may allow you to run everything in your Airstream with a standard 120V, 20A extension cord plugged into an outdoor 20A outlet.
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Good point.
FWIW, we've been able to run our 13,500 BTU stock Coleman unit on an outlet fed by a 15A breaker.
Whoever did the wiring in that house was apparently trying to save a few bucks, because all of the outlet circuits were 15A.
We were using a 100' #10 gauge cord as well.
The current draw went as high as 12A, borderline, but the breaker never tripped.
It was in Phoenix and the temp was over 100*F in the afternoon.
I have a hard start cap but I haven't installed it yet. There are conflicting opinions as to whether they should be installed on a unit that is operating well. I've heard nothing but good about them though.
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03-11-2021, 03:12 PM
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#25
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Rivet Master
2022 25' Flying Cloud
NCR
, Ontario
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 3,107
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those chords are likely not legal.
most outlets are on the same breaker, so you wont get more that 15A.
if you plugged into a kitchen outlets, most codes state that the two outlets are on separate circuits
BUT, if you plug into both with that Y and try to combine them, then you are creating dangerous power loops.. This could kill a person or even set the wiring on fire
do not use these unsafe chords under any circumstances
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03-11-2021, 03:34 PM
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#26
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4 Rivet Member
2014 25' FB Flying Cloud
Hillsborough
, North Carolina
Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 314
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Hurricanes are Predictable. So are Deaths.
Seems like every year we have a hurricane.
Seems like every hurricane there is someone that gets electrocuted with a generator. (plus all those that get CO2 poisoning.)
Buy that cord and get ready to join the stats club.
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03-11-2021, 03:35 PM
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#27
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Rivet Master
2017 26' Flying Cloud
Tampa
, Florida
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 7,655
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sajohnson
It also says:
"RV 30A plug get power from (2)15A regular outlet.
When you have 2 of regular 15A 5-15 outlet on generator, and you want plug camper 30A TT-30P extension cord into them get 30A power from them.
It can NOT work if you do not plugin both of plug.(Must plugin both of two plug)"
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That's written by someone who has English as a second language. From China? Korea?
CHINA! Not necessarily bad, some good stuff is made in China, but I'm just sayin'
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03-11-2021, 05:22 PM
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#28
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3 Rivet Member
Middletown
, Maryland
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 159
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03-11-2021, 05:32 PM
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#29
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Rivet Master
2007 22' International CCD
Corona
, California
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 9,180
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This kind of gadget, without any doubt in my mind, will not have a legitimate UL label on it. A) it’s inherently deadly, B) it’s a great way to blow breakers and cause an arc flash just plugging it in.
I’d strongly suggest not wasting money on it. Never mind the clumsy English. This thing is a disaster looking for a place to happen!
__________________
Rich, KE4GNK/AE, Overkill Engineering Dept.
'The Silver HamShack' ('07 International 22FB CCD 75th Anniversary)
Multiple Yaesu Ham Radios inside and many antennae sprouting from roof, ProPride hitch, Prodigy P2 controller.
2012 shortbed CrewMax 4x4 Toyota Tacoma TV with more antennae on it.
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03-11-2021, 05:34 PM
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#30
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Site Team
2017 30' International
Broomfield
, Colorado
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 3,555
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$25k install of lithium and a full hybrid inverter platform should do the trick for mooching comfort.
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03-11-2021, 05:43 PM
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#31
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3 Rivet Member
Middletown
, Maryland
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 159
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmkrum
This kind of gadget, without any doubt in my mind, will not have a legitimate UL label on it. A) it’s inherently deadly, B) it’s a great way to blow breakers and cause an arc flash just plugging it in.
I’d strongly suggest not wasting money on it. Never mind the clumsy English. This thing is a disaster looking for a place to happen!
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"We don't need no stinkin' UL labels!"
In the off chance you are not familiar with the original quote:
https://youtu.be/PI9jFp0cnig
Yeah, I'm thinking UL might have a problem with any adapter like that.
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03-12-2021, 09:48 AM
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#32
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4 Rivet Member
Here and There
, West Coast
Join Date: Apr 2019
Posts: 433
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bfdowling
I was hoping there was some sort of a parallel type kit. This would be for mooch-docking.
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My grandmother complained one day that fuses just don't last like they used to. Well she lived in an old house built when electrical use was much simpler. Over the years she added a toaster, mixer, and etc. She advised that the best way to fix the fuse problem was put a penny in under the fuse. Solved the problem, must be a good idea.
Hopefully I will be helpful and not bore or insult. You can think of it almost like water in a pipe. The amps is the quantity of electricity, and volts is the pressure. The wire size is the pipe and the receptacle is where you attach. The circuit breaker watches over the quantity, shutting it off if demand exceeds the capability of the wire. If your needs will exceed 80% of the circuit breaker and wire rating for more than three hours and forty minutes continuously then a larger wire and circuit breaker are needed. NEMA (National Electrical Manufacturers Association) has set standards for the type of receptacle allowed for wire and voltage. The intent is if the rules are followed cables and plugs match capability of circuits. The NEC is published by the National Fire Prevention Association. Codes and standards are intended to save lives and prevent fires. That thing in the earlier posts is nothing but dangerous! It can cause electrocution and fire. Amazing what our open world market has brought us. If you look over the circuit you will be using and check it for correct function and wire assignment (grounding, grounded, ungrounded conductors all good) you should be good to go within the rating of the circuit breaker. An illegitimate work around will most often lead to trouble. Trouble may be low voltage damaging your stuff, overheating circuit conductors, or worse. I know, a bunch of words Hope they were at least a little bit helpful.
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03-12-2021, 01:12 PM
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#33
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Rivet Master
1973 21' Globetrotter
Houston
, Texas
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 3,322
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I saw a similar product offered a while back, except that it had a large box fitted with breakers, etc., at the 30A plug end, and it cost almost $200.
When I saw it, I figured I could do a hard-wired variation of my own. So I took two sets of wires (separate circuits, 20A breakers) that were pathed to my garage (which is about 150 ft from the breaker box), interrupted (spliced them together) them inside the garage, put in junction box with a single 30A breaker, and then installed a 30A receptacle.
It worked just fine the first summer I used it. Then things went down hill gradually. Seemed like one or the other of the breakers in the original fuse box would trip using certain outlets in the garage, and it finally became such a headache that I replaced both of the original breakers, thinking they might just be getting weak (no help), then opened up the "sub" fuse box to have a good look at what was going on. Found that where I had put two of the incoming wires together, they had been getting hot and causing the breakers to pop. What I did to make the connection is known as "double-tapping," which I did not know at the time was a bad practice.
So having lucked out and not burned my garage down (God looks out for fools and children), I deconstructed the mess I had made and put the wiring back in its original configuration. I then installed an EasyStart on the airconditioner. Much cleaner solution. AC runs off of a single 20A outlet without any issues now.
Good luck!
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03-17-2021, 09:11 AM
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#34
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SHE SHED
2019 30' Classic
Brooklyn
, New York
Join Date: Sep 2018
Posts: 179
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It's OK as long as you know how to put out a Class C fire.
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03-17-2021, 09:18 AM
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#35
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1 Rivet Member
Lacey
, WA
Join Date: Apr 2018
Posts: 18
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Quick way to wind up with a 220v short by accident
Household current runs 220v normally, It comes into your house with two hot legs and one neutral leg.
Your breaker box has two bus bars, one for each 'hot' leg. You get 110v current by connecting one of those two bus bars to neutral.
If you connect between the two bus bars, you get 220v power.
The breakers for 110 volt circuits pull off of one or the other bus bars in the breaker box - If you connect two separate 110 volt circuits, you run the risk of creating a direct short between the two bus bars (220v circuit)
This is, needless to say - a bad idea.
If you're trying to run 30 amps, you're better off installing a 30-amp outlet at the breaker box, and running a long 30-amp cord, or hijacking a high-amperage circuit (such as your dryer outlet) for temporary use.
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03-17-2021, 09:25 AM
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#36
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3 Rivet Member
2022 20' Caravel
2019 Interstate Lounge Ext
Noblesville
, Indiana
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 220
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bfdowling
Does anyone know where I can search a Y-splitter from a single 30A female that plugs into the trailer into 2 120V 15A males? I'd like to connect two different 120V 15A sources (2 different circuits) into a 30A connector to the trailer.
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As an electrical engineer, this requests gives me the shivers. First, it doesn't exist, never will and shouldn't ever be attempted on so many fronts.
First, if you were to plug one male 115vac plug, momentarily the other becomes hot. Secondly, you would never and could never be assure that the two 115AC outlet are in phase or on the same leg. Thirdly, even if you do this, and didn't get electrocuted or didn't start a fire...the minor impedance differences would never assure an equal load starting situation.
Fourthly, if you found two 15A circuits close enough together, and if they were on the same branch circuit, that branch would have a 15A breaker as the wire size is 16 gauge.
Abort.
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03-17-2021, 09:54 AM
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#37
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1 Rivet Member
2008 23' Safari SE
Uxbridge
, Ontario
Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mollysdad
No, but tell us more about what you want to accomplish. Is this for when you're parked at home? On the road at a friend's home? At a campground?
Since the 30 amp RV plug only has one hot lead, why not keep it simple and replace a breaker in your main home panel with a 30 amp breaker and add an RV receptacle?
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“Replacing” a 15A breaker with a 30A breaker without upgrading the wire size from 14AWG to 10AWG is fire waiting to happen. If you want 30A 120volts then install a new circuit with the proper outdoor twistlock 30A 120V receptacle. Make sure you get a permit and get it inspected for everyones sake and to keep your insurance company from denying any potential claim. It scares the crap out of me when I see customers doing “money saving” upgrades.
__________________
Mike Le Ber
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03-17-2021, 10:54 AM
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#38
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New Member
2019 33' Classic
Guelph
, Ontario
Join Date: Jun 2020
Posts: 1
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Power for your Airstream
We have two Airstreams on our trailer pad, a Safari 25 and a Classic 33.
They like a dedicated source of power, so we had our electrician wire in two 30 amp outlets outside. One for each trailer. Separate circuits off my main panel. This has worked very well, and was not overly expensive. Safety first!
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03-17-2021, 11:37 AM
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#39
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4 Rivet Member
Here and There
, West Coast
Join Date: Apr 2019
Posts: 433
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Perhaps typo errors but two examples of well intentioned incorrect advice: There is no #16 gauge wire used in residential or commercial wiring. A light duty extension cord can be #16 gauge but has an ampacity of no more than 13 amps (post #36). Dryer circuits are 220 volt and sure to pop your 120 volt circuits (spot #35).
Electrical advice from the internet (including a forum) will likely result in a situation which is hazardous to your health and property. Electricity is a great servant but a deadly master. Best to always talk with a licensed and bonded electrical contractor in your area.
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03-17-2021, 01:56 PM
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#40
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K6QY
2004 19' International CCD
Pasadena
, California
Join Date: Oct 2019
Posts: 5
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um, no
Quote:
Originally Posted by bfdowling
Does anyone know where I can search a Y-splitter from a single 30A female that plugs into the trailer into 2 120V 15A males? I'd like to connect two different 120V 15A sources (2 different circuits) into a 30A connector to the trailer.
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Despite there being two 15A receptacles on a typical outlet point, it will only likely be wired to handle a 15A load. You wont be able to draw 30A From a single 15A circuit.
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