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Old 10-30-2019, 05:42 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by billrector View Post
What would you want to run that would require 75 amps? Unless you want a washer/dryer or electric stove, why would you need this?
I've never seen 75 amp service at a campground.
Rock and roll tour busses run on generator 24/7 and have as many as five A/C units. (Perhaps to remove all that smoke? ("Here!!!")
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Old 10-31-2019, 10:34 AM   #42
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Originally Posted by Al and Missy View Post
I have stayed at campgrouns recently (one a state park) that offered 100 amp service. Wow!

Al
Hi

I've seen 100A (once), but never 75A. Indeed that campground had a *lot* of very large class A's in it.

Bob
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Old 10-31-2019, 12:09 PM   #43
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I didn't read through all the responses. But to answer the 50 amp / cold / unmanageable cord, we got the same grey cord with our unit and it's a PITA to manage.

With some help from folks here, we ended up buying this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The cord is very flexible and a lot lighter. It is easy to coil and works well, we ran both ACs for more than 48 hours during the heavy heat we had here this year.

This cord link is for the 15 footer, but they come longer.

The point is, this particular companies product works well and is easy to work with over the factory cord that comes with it.

Check it out, was worth every penny.
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Old 10-31-2019, 12:21 PM   #44
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no issues running with 30A service as long as you keep the total load to < 80% of that value. If you keep the load under 24 A, you are ok. That means no more that one AC unit on at a time.

you can even use 15A service, same 80% rule. that is why no household device consumes more than 1200W
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Old 11-03-2019, 02:26 PM   #45
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Electrical cables get stiff when it is cold. The more amps the more thickness and the stiffer they get. To make them manageable, the conductors in larger cords is a braided cable of many strands because a solid conductor would be very difficult to use. This is true for A/C cords at home, toasters, etc. The problem with braided cords is the little strands eventually break, and/or they overheat from too many compromised strands and (hopefully) blow a breaker. In the process of breaking down, the cord will deliver less current. To make a cable more flexible you can use softer conductors than copper like aluminum or gold. If you can afford a gold cable, your servants are reading this. I suspect some of the more flexible cords are aluminum. The threads will break faster the softer the metal is. There is no free lunch here either. Life is full of trade offs (unless you have servants—if you only have one servant, perhaps a silver cord). This is kind of simple explanation based on my limited knowledge, but I think it is largely accurate.

It was a CG owner that told me she was asked about 75 amp hookups, so I guess they are out there. By the 1950's, 100 amp residential service was becoming fairly common. In the 1960's, 150 amp was necessary in larger houses and now 200 amp is pretty standard. Carmakers are thinking about 24 v. rather than 12 v. batteries (went from 6 v. to 12 in the 1950's). We are switching from an oil economy to an electric economy regardless of all efforts to stay in the past. I'm wondering if A/C manufacturers are doing much to reduce the amperage needs of their products? I think they usually draw 12-15 amps. Would two 10 amp units work better for cooling and electrical needs?

Interesting that band tour busses have 24 hour generators. So do refrigerated trucks or they just keep the engine running, I think the latter, though I would think a dedicated generator would be more efficient.
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Old 11-06-2019, 06:36 AM   #46
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Almost all portable space heaters are 1500 watts. I believe some hair dryers are 1500 watts.
I'm sure you can find 120v Microwaves rated more than 1200 watts.
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Old 11-06-2019, 08:43 AM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kittmaster View Post
With some help from folks here, we ended up buying this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Your link is for a 50 amp EXTENSION cord. I suspect you got the 50 amp POWER cord. The extension will not plug into the trailer.
I got this after one trip with the grey bridge support cable. The "Mighty Cord" from e-Trailer.
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Old 11-07-2019, 06:34 AM   #48
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Hi

The 80% rule gets used when designing a lot of stuff. You will find 15 and 20A circuits in a "typical" home. 1440 W and 1920 W are the limits for those circuits at 80%. Anything past those numbers will be "fun" in a normal home.

==========

Indeed RV A/C units come in a variety of sizes. They also come in a few flavors of efficiency. The big issue is - when you buy a new trailer, do you dig into the grubby little A/C details? Neither does anybody else. If anything "bigger is better" is what sells. As long as that's the case, things will not change very fast. What's worked in the past works ok. No big reason to change.

Bob
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Old 11-15-2019, 08:27 PM   #49
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I realize this is an old thread. I wonder what the OP found related to the subject of running two A/C's on 30A? Maybe they'll report back.

Regardless, when I read the comment from an earlier post I was astounded! Absolutely amazed, shocked and to some extent infuriated.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rawn77 View Post
I think the real question for me was that when I was boondocking at a Walmart, could I use my Honda 3000 inverter generator to run the dual ACs and nothing else?
Maybe Rawn77 (and others) have some super-secret, covert method of running their generator and plugging in their trailer but I cannot imagine running your generator and connecting an electric cord is acceptable for a Walmart parking lot. What's next? Put out the grill and lawn chairs?
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Old 11-15-2019, 11:08 PM   #50
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Originally Posted by Rawn77 View Post
I've ordered a new 31' Classic which will come with 2 AC's (15k and 13.5k) and 50 AMP service.

Have any of you guys used a 50 to 30 AMP pigtail and were still able to run both AC units (assuming no other significant electrical being used {hot water and fridge running on propane})

For those quick one night stops, it would be nice to not have to wrestle with the 50 AMP cordset; the 30 AMP cordset is way easier to deal with.

Just wondering

Ron
We have a Progressive Industries EMS which monitors the voltage. The 50 to 30 pigtail does give voltage on both sides so you can run both air conditioners. We did it quite a bit at a recent gathering where 30A was all we had. Each A/C will pull anywhere from 12 to 15A depending on the voltage when running. That means you can run both, but nothing else during that time. If you start with fully charged batteries, your converter will only pull about 2A, (to keep the fridge and other on board electronics running) so you may get away with it if your voltage stays around 120V. The A/C will draw closer to 15A as the voltage drops so if the park voltage drops below 110V, the A/C is all you can run.

The 3000 inverter can not give you a full 30A so you will only be able to run one A/C unless you have two of them paralleled to get the full 30A.

Note that we still used the 50A cord, but a 30A cord will work
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Old 11-16-2019, 06:43 AM   #51
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Hi

Can you run two A/C's on a 30A circuit? Yes. Should you do so? No.

The surge currents as the units start up are significant. The circuit isn't going to hold up voltage when the surges happen. Even at full load, the voltage likely will dip a bit. All of that gets the units working harder and harder. They will die an early death.

Target running current for a 30A circuit is 80% of 30A or 24A. That's independent of any generator involvement at all.

Bob
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Old 11-16-2019, 04:33 PM   #52
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Originally Posted by uncle_bob View Post
Hi

Can you run two A/C's on a 30A circuit? Yes. Should you do so? No.

Bob
Yes and yes. If it must be, I think you could get away with it for a while—what is important enough to try?—heat exhaustion or other medical emergencies I suppose.

Eventually they will surge at the same time or something else will trip a breaker. Breaker's life span is shortened by tripping, so the more trips, the shorter the breaker's trip (life span).

It is frequently written that someone who takes out their lawn chairs, cooks outside or settles in at a Walmart or other free place in a parking lot is abusing the permission they get from the store manager. Given the condition of many vehicles in Walmart lots and how some of the lots aren't too well kept, I doubt a few lawn chairs are going too far, though a grill seems to be too much. I wouldn't leave those chairs outside all night unless you want to buy some more in the store.
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Old 11-16-2019, 06:04 PM   #53
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Originally Posted by Mollysdad View Post
Your link is for a 50 amp EXTENSION cord. I suspect you got the 50 amp POWER cord. The extension will not plug into the trailer.
I got this after one trip with the grey bridge support cable. The "Mighty Cord" from e-Trailer.

Actually my link is correct, I should have noted that I use this adapter which allows me to switch between the 15/35/50 extensions that I have.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Old 11-17-2019, 11:31 AM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rawn77 View Post
I've ordered a new 31' Classic which will come with 2 AC's (15k and 13.5k) and 50 AMP service.



Have any of you guys used a 50 to 30 AMP pigtail and were still able to run both AC units (assuming no other significant electrical being used {hot water and fridge running on propane})



For those quick one night stops, it would be nice to not have to wrestle with the 50 AMP cordset; the 30 AMP cordset is way easier to deal with.



Just wondering



Ron


I just moved to a 27FB with two AC units. You will have to pick which unit will run from the zone options. Canít run both at the same time without throwing a breaker.
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Old 11-18-2019, 11:48 AM   #55
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Originally Posted by MetalAria View Post
I just moved to a 27FB with two AC units. You will have to pick which unit will run from the zone options. Canít run both at the same time without throwing a breaker.
Does that mean the 27 is a 30 amp trailer with two A/C's? If so, how do they get to sell a trailer with inadequate power? Things change, but the 27 used to have one A/C.
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Old 11-18-2019, 01:35 PM   #56
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No - if it has two AC units, it gets upgraded to a 50 amp system and there are two zones (bedroom and galley/lounge area. But if you are using a 30amp connection, you can run just one AC zone.

Trailers with one AC unit remain at 30 amps.
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Old 11-18-2019, 02:17 PM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mollysdad View Post
Your link is for a 50 amp EXTENSION cord. I suspect you got the 50 amp POWER cord. The extension will not plug into the trailer.
I got this after one trip with the grey bridge support cable. The "Mighty Cord" from e-Trailer.
Do you have this cord? If so, what is model # and how much does it weigh compared to OEM 50A? I don't want to deal with a short extension, but if weight is significant on one shown, I might consider just switching to lighter, easier to handle cord, assuming it is much lighter and easier to handle....
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Old 11-18-2019, 03:09 PM   #58
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I have Easy Start on both A/C's. If I have a good 30 amp connection, I can run both A/C's and nothing else. Refer must be on propane and battery switch in the store mode. However, not all 30 amp shore power connections provide a true 30 amps. Old wiring, loose connections, bad grounds, etc. My Southwire Surge Guard with wireless remote display lets me know how good the power source is.
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Old 11-18-2019, 04:26 PM   #59
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Do you have this cord? If so, what is model # and how much does it weigh compared to OEM 50A?
Yes.
From having a previous RV with 50 amp service, I knew that grey AS cable had to go.
I bought the new cable from e-Trailer, after the guys went into the warehouse and said it would coil to 16". It actually comes in a smaller box. Weight? It's still heavy, but nothing like the Airstream OEM cord.
Just don't expect it to be like a 30 amp cord. I'd guess it weighs around 20-25 pounds.
I also liked the 90 degree plug, since it takes the weight of the cord off the Airstream receptacle.
One downside (hasn't been a problem) is the large finger grips on the male plug prevent the rain cover of my Progressive Industries surge protector from closing all the way.
E trailer, Code: A10-5025ED90; Mighty cord 25' $160.


In the department of overkill, I have a second power cord, a 30 amp with a 50 amp trailer plug. (It came that way!) So If I'm staying at a park that only has 30 amp, I drag out that one. I actually got it for the generator, but so far, use it in 30 amp pedestals.
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