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Old 07-14-2014, 06:48 PM   #21
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I don't have one but they make an adapter that will plug into a 30 amp and 20 amp pedestal outlets, and let you use the 50 amp cord. That would probably let you run both AC units. I should get one of those.

http://www.amazon.com/Camco-55025-Po...20+amp+adapter
Steve, the 30 amp breaker on the pedestal would blow. And if you used a 20 amp receptacle, it would blow faster.

You don't want another blow out, do you?

There is also a 20 amp to 30 amp adapter. I have to use it on my house because I haven't gotten around to putting in a 30 amp RV plug. It would take a lot of 10 gauge cable since the trailer and breaker box are on opposite ends of the house. Besides the work, the cost is more than I want to do. Maybe someday it will be important.

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Old 07-14-2014, 07:27 PM   #22
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a friend has a Winnebago MH that has 30a service and 2 air units. i believe it has a load shedding device that keeps both units from running at the same time.
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Old 07-14-2014, 08:00 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by Gene View Post
Steve, the 30 amp breaker on the pedestal would blow. And if you used a 20 amp receptacle, it would blow faster.

You don't want another blow out, do you?

There is also a 20 amp to 30 amp adapter. I have to use it on my house because I haven't gotten around to putting in a 30 amp RV plug. It would take a lot of 10 gauge cable since the trailer and breaker box are on opposite ends of the house. Besides the work, the cost is more than I want to do. Maybe someday it will be important.

Gene
Gene, I think that adapter will work because the way that an RV is wired to use 50 amps service (actually 240 VAC @ 50 amps) is it uses each hot leg to ground, and distributes the load between the legs. There are no 240 VAC loads in the trailer, nor is it wired for 240 anywhere. So the adapter would provide one 120 VAC leg @ 30 amps, and one 120 VAC leg at 20 amps. Granted, the 20 amp leg is the most vulnerable to overload, but still it should be better than a single 30 amp service, especially if the smaller of the two AC units happen to be on the 20 amp leg.

And by the way, I'm really sick of the B word, so we don't use it around here any more. I now have the tire situation good, and all the plumbing valves replaced, and just waiting on aluminum parts from Airstream. Hope to have it all repaired by the end of the week.
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Old 07-14-2014, 09:13 PM   #24
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Steve, let's take your trailer apart and find out.

But I see what you mean now (my elderly mind is bit slower than it used to be). When the two legs get to the trailer converter, only 20 amps would go to one leg and 30 to the other. This is unbalanced. The 30 amp leg pedestal breaker is then 25 amps at the trailer and could be overloaded if you draw more than 25 amps. This can be avoided by being careful. Same in reverse on the other leg. It sounds like it could work though the cable to the trailer might get hot if you use everything on the 30 amp leg, but the converter breaker should catch an overload. The pedestal breaker would be the weak point on the 20 amp leg. Maybe I've got that backwards.

Glad to hear your going to have the tire damage fixed before you come to Colorado. You shouldn't need A/C here.

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Old 07-14-2014, 09:29 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by SteveH View Post
I don't have one but they make an adapter that will plug into a 30 amp and 20 amp pedestal outlets, and let you use the 50 amp cord. That would probably let you run both AC units. I should get one of those.

http://www.amazon.com/Camco-55025-Po...20+amp+adapter

Don't do it. They don't work. I have one and is useless. The GFI 20 amp breaker on the pedestal trips the minute it's turned on. I think the 20/30 plug might work if you had a non GFI 20 amp plug in. Maybe at an old park with old electrical pedestals.


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Old 07-14-2014, 09:38 PM   #26
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Don't do it. They don't work. I have one and is useless. The GFI 20 amp breaker on the pedestal trips the minute it's turned on. I think the 20/30 plug might work if you had a non GFI 20 amp plug in. Maybe at an old park with old electrical pedestals.


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Yea, they say they won't work with a GFI outlet.
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Old 07-14-2014, 10:22 PM   #27
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Short answer is that a 3000 watt gen will not overload a 30 amp cord so long as it isn't super long.

I don't know that I would use them both for extended periods, but I think I would for initial cool down for a couple of hours if the gen doesn't struggle too much.


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Old 07-14-2014, 10:23 PM   #28
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Yea, they say they won't work with a GFI outlet.
And they are right, the GFCI will trip every time and there is no work around.

GFIC equipped 20 amp park outlets have been code required for about 20 + years, so any park without them is old, old, old, or in non compliance if they replaced the GFCI outlet with a normal one (or GFCI C/B).
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Old 07-14-2014, 10:55 PM   #29
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Here's a solution:

Here is a link to where I bought it:
http://www.campingworld.com/shopping...solution/57161


Here's the information from the manufacturer:

Description
Does your RV trip park breakers, limiting air conditioner or appliance use?
The JTB Power Solution lets you run your 50 amp RV in a 30 amp park without tripping breakers so you can operate both your RV air conditioners at the same time from 30 amp park power. The JTB Power Solution is a power management tool that allows you to use the typical RV hook-up (30 amp main service with auxiliary 20 amp circuit or GFCI) to power appliances in your RV.
The JTB Power Solution is automatic, so there are no switches or meters to monitor. Traditional "cheater boxes" will not work with your RV if the power pole has a GFCI outlet . The "cheater box" will cause the GFCI to trip every time--in just a matter of minutes--when both air conditioners are running.

How Does It Work?
The JTB Power Solution automatically configures the available power in a typical RV park (30 amp main circuit and 20 Amp circuit or GFCI auxiliary) for use in your RV. Once the JTB Power Solution is installed, you simply plug your existing power cord into the 30 amp service and plug the additional power cord (added to your RV with the JTB Power Solution installation) into the 20 amp circuit or GFCI.

The JTB Power Solution is the only power management tool on the market that will allow you to put the full 50 amps of service available at a typical RV park's 30 amp power pole to work in your RV, whether the 20 amp auxiliary outlet is a GFCI or not. Once installed, you will be able to run both of your RV air conditioners at the same time to keep your RV cool, or run other appliances with a single air conditioner simultaneously.

The JTB Power Solution solves other power management problems too. Take the JTB Quiz below to learn about the full benefits of a JTB Power Solution!

Is the JTB Power Solution the Answer to Your Electrical Power Management Problems?

Are you having power problems with your RV?
Do you have problems blow drying your hair due to circuit overload?
Are you tripping your air conditioner circuit breaker due to overload?
Are you tripping breakers when connected to the RV park power?
Are you using a manual power management device that directs the power load of your RV from one appliance to another?
Are you replacing your power cord plug due to excessive heat?
Are you using a "cheater box" that will not work with GFCI outlets?
Are you tripping breakers to the washer and dryer in your 30 amp or 50 amp RV?
Are you tripping the second air conditioner circuit breaker in your 30 amp or 50 amp RV?
Do you want to add another circuit for an air conditioner, washer and dryer, microwave or other appliance?
Do you just want to provide more amps to your RV?
Problems Solved!!!
Powers your 50 amp RV in a 30 amp state park by using the 20 amp GFCI receptacle
Eliminates GFCI tripping at typical RV hook-ups--works with GFCI hook-ups in all RV parks
Eliminates need for running generator to operate two air conditioners--prohibited in many parks
Allows unlimited use of both air conditioners in all RVS---Travel Trailers, 5th Wheels and Motorhomes
Allows use of one air conditioner and another appliance such as a microwave simultaneously
Lets you use your hair dryer without blowing circuit in all 50 amp or 30 amp RVs
- See more at: http://www.campingworld.com/shopping....w65upzev.dpuf

Here are the specs:

http://www.campingworld.com/shopping...solution/57161

If you are interested in one I have one new-in-the box on Atlanta Craigslist for less than half price!
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Old 07-15-2014, 10:54 AM   #30
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The JTB may work although the information above doesn't explain how it works (I didn't look on the link). I guess it limits the draw from the 20 amp plug on the pedestal to 20 amps.

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Old 07-15-2014, 01:13 PM   #31
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What is not mentioned in the advertising is how the user configures the circuit breakers in the box and whether the circuit breaker box has to be 120Vac or 240Vac.

One can move the breakers in a 240Vac box so the second leg (now 20 amp) powers the other gear or the air conditioner only.

For a lot less money at camping world, one can purchase a 50 amp female by two 30 amp male plugs with a 30 amp receptacle to 15 amp male plug adapter to accomplish the same thing. Plus one can chose which leg gets the greater power per your trailer circuit wiring setup.

50 Amp 125/250V RV Female - (2) 30 Amp RV Male Plugs Y-Adapter with Powersmart LED's - Furrion F5431RY-SB - Electrical Cords - Camping World
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Old 07-16-2014, 02:46 PM   #32
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I don't know how it works or if it works but for $700 to $900 be sure you have a money back guarantee that it does work.
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Old 07-16-2014, 05:52 PM   #33
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I added the 2d A/C to my 28' Intl last summer. Had JC install it. I did NOT want a 50 amp service due to the mega cord. They simply added a box in the rear wardrobe and added a second 30amp input above the cable tv plug in. I purchased a 50amp plug-in with two 30's. IF I want to use the 2d A/C, I use the campground's 50amp service and run two 30 amp power cables. It works just fine, and both the 15,000 BTU and 13,500 BTU A/C's operate perfectly.
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Old 10-27-2019, 12:24 PM   #34
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how to run both ACs on 30 amp (sort of)

Recently took a 5000 mile trip, in August-September, in our 30 ft 2004 Land Yacht.

West from NC on I40 to AZ, north to Vegas, north to UT and back on I70.

We discovered one AC unit will not handle temperatures in the 100's.

At the last minute we did discover you could run the front AC and then start the generator and run the rear AC. Not a permanent solution as not allowed in most parks.

During 109 degrees in Lake Meade NV, I installed a temporary solution, running 12 awg extension cord across the ceiling from our rear AC to the corner closet, down through the cabinets to the rear compartment, with a 30 amp plug, which I could adapt down to 20 amp or up to 50 amp




When we got home, I made it more permanent, to be able to switch from house power to shore power when required, and added a 20 amp breaker when running from 50 amp shore power.



All in all a great trip - here's a photo when camped on the canyon floor in Palo Dura Canyon State Park in Texas


modification photos not showing so attached in pdf
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File Type: pdf Land Yacht run 2 ACs on 30 amp.pdf (1.70 MB, 11 views)
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Old 10-30-2019, 12:18 PM   #35
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50 amp is so old fashioned. Now rigs are made with 75 amps. In my lifetime houses used to be built with 50 amp service. Are 75 amp MH’s camping?
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Old 10-30-2019, 12:30 PM   #36
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50 amp is so old fashioned. Now rigs are made with 75 amps. In my lifetime houses used to be built with 50 amp service. Are 75 amp MHs camping?


What would you want to run that would require 75 amps? Unless you want a washer/dryer or electric stove, why would you need this?
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Old 10-30-2019, 01:52 PM   #37
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50 amp is so old fashioned. Now rigs are made with 75 amps. In my lifetime houses used to be built with 50 amp service. Are 75 amp MH’s camping?
Hi

Good luck finding a 75A shore power post at a campground ..... In maybe 18 months on the road, we've never seen anything over 50A.

Bob
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Old 10-30-2019, 03:49 PM   #38
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The 30 to 50 amp dog-bone that came with my trailer powers both legs of a 50 amp service. So you can run either AC. But 30 amps is not enough to run both ACs at the same time.
But note that not a
lol dog bones are the same...
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Old 10-30-2019, 04:21 PM   #39
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I suppose billrector hit it—so you can run your washer and dryer, five TV's, toaster, two or three air conditioners and the microwave.

I think you could run two A/C's on 30 amps if they don't cycle at the same time and both are 15 amps or less. If both compressors go on at the same time, the main breaker would probably trip inside or the one on the pedestal would. I would not turn on anything except maybe a few LED lights. Of course, eventually they will both cycle at the same time, but it could take minutes or weeks or anything in between.

Slow start circuitry could improve the chances of running both at the same time to avoid the big initial draw as the compressor starts up. I don't think these A/C's have that, but it can be added to the circuits. Between the expense of two slow start boxes and the difficulty of installing it somewhere accessible plus not being sure whether it would work, I doubt anyone would do it. Any 75 amp MH would probably have a dual fuel water heater too and that could also cycle simultaneously. And old circuitry at the pedestal or in the CG may not deliver enough amps anyway.
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Old 10-30-2019, 04:32 PM   #40
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I have stayed at campgrouns recently (one a state park) that offered 100 amp service. Wow!

Al
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