1977 Argosy Electrical Issue

[Argosy_77]

Hello All,

I’m new to the community and airstreams in general so I hope this is the proper place for my query.

Anyways, I recently purchased a 1977 Argosy (great condition with all intact original interior) that I’ve been trying to get up and running but have run into a few snags. When I purchased the camper the seller demonstrated the electricity in working order but I have not been able to produce the same results on my own. The plug that is connected to the camper appears to have been spliced to a 220 prong but came with a 110 adapter. However, when I plug the adapted prong in nothing happens (no lights/electricity) aside from a buzzing sound from the univolt. Ive replaced the battery that came with the camper and checked all of the fuses but I still get the same result. Could this be a grounding issue? I’m at a bit of a loss as to where to go from here.

Any guidance would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!

[azflycaster]

Your trailer has 2 electric systems, 12 volt and 120 volt. The 120 is powered from the power cable and the 12 volt is powered from the battery which is charged from the 120 volt system.

Step 1 is to see which systems are working and which are not. no lights would indicate that the 12 volt is nor working and a humming univolt indicates the 120 volt is working.

I would focus on the 12 volt distribution panel which should be located near or connected to the univolt. Several fuses here that could be blown.

[mrdes8]

Welcome to the forums.... looks like it could be test light/fault tracing time. In my '76 Argosy the Univolt had already been replaced (which you will probably end up doing sooner rather than later) but they decided to use the Univolt fuse block. Caused me no end of problems as the fuses tested good and there was power through them but the connections on the back side of the panel were loose and it changed as the trailer moved. The system is fairly simple but almost 50 years old. Start at the battery and trace your powers and grounds. In the 12v system white wires are grounds and may just go to the body.
120v wise many have trouble with a 30 amp "RV only" plug and sock looking a lot like a 220 plug and socket, NO interchange. Agree that humming Univolt could be a sign of normal operation, get the 12v stuff working first. Would suggest a new converter/charger (many good options out there, I like the Boondocker units) and a Blu Sea 12v fuse panel with positive and negative busses built in like model #5025. Hope this helps....
Good luck, Mark D

[Bioknight]

Hey Mrdes8 I was wondering if you’d be able to post pics and show the overall setup. I’m installing the panel you mentioned and bus bars etc atm.

[mrdes8]

Hi, so this first one is kind of humorous but does show the 12v fuse panel on the left edge. This is a friends Sprinter conversion and an over the top electrical system I helped him with.
Good luck, Mark D

[mrdes8]

Now one of my rig...
Not a great shot, I'll try to find a better one, but...
2 6v 250 amp/hr AGM batts, to the left the conv/charger
right in the front I think the negative buss bar
fuse box hidden behind the wall panel,
to the right front is the shunt for the Victron BMV 712 battery monitor.
Mark D