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Old 09-16-2004, 01:16 PM   #1
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12vDC wall connectors

I’m installing a Dometic RM2551 refrigerator in 64 Safari. What type plug/connector is typical to install in wall for 12vDC?



It requires a constant 12vDC line in addition to 110AC & propane. I have new 12v wires run inside wall to the frig area. I can run ground to wall stud/frame. I can install a polarized 110v type wall outlet easy but not sure it’s a good idea because it looks like 110v.

What’s used for 12v connectors M/F besides 12v lighter type socket?
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Old 09-16-2004, 01:45 PM   #2
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On my unit the twelve volt conductors are connected to ta small terminal board.

I believe this is for the ignitor and the rollover feature (auto change from AC to DC)

Mine is not plugged into a wall socket for 12v.
It is however plugged into a wall outlet for the 110 volts connections.

I would not connect anything to the chassis, skin or studs.

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Old 09-16-2004, 04:48 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smily
...I would not connect anything to the chassis, skin or studs.
I basically agree with Ken's point; If you only have a +12 vdc line, it was probably installed by a previous owner. In my extremely limited experience with Airstreams, they have always complied with applicable electrical code by running two conductors for 12 vdc. I think you can run your ground to the frame with safe results, but it will not be to code.

In my opinion only, there is no need for a 12 vdc connector - the refrigerator should be hardwired directly to service as it is not something that should require frequent disconnection.

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Old 09-16-2004, 05:12 PM   #4
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Tom,

What Code? I can't find it in NEC 551.10, where it says that metal chassis or frame shall be permitted as the return path to the source of supply.
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Old 09-16-2004, 05:25 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by markdoane
What Code? I can't find it in NEC 551.10...
Well, I've been caught! I have boo-booed by not actually consulting the code; I was simply going by what seemed to make sense for situations I have encountered & what I have in my antique Airstream.

My apologies for misleading everyone.

Tom
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Old 09-16-2004, 05:59 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by tcwilliams
Well, I've been caught! I have boo-booed by not actually consulting the code; I was simply going by what seemed to make sense for situations I have encountered & what I have in my antique Airstream.

My apologies for misleading everyone.

Tom
Section 551.10 E (3) of the code says appliances shall be "installed in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions". ???

I agree that running two wires is preferred, and that's what I would do for all appliances except lighting.
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Old 09-16-2004, 06:13 PM   #7
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normally connectors are used to make removal and reinstallation easier. With an appliance like refrig. you are not going to be taking it in out on a regular basis . However if you just want it that way you can use an automotive connector of the proper gauge. I would use a ''weather pack'' type if I did to help prevent corrosion.
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Old 09-16-2004, 06:44 PM   #8
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Question Related ?? Amps in socket?

Since several of you seem to have electrical codes and manuals out...

I'm contemplating direct plug of new Sharp LCD 14" Television into "Lighter socket" on wall of trailer next to TV connections at front of our Excella 25.. Unit (the TV) came with 110V to 12V transformer/power supply, but TV only requires about 45 continuous watts of 12V DC power to operate...

By my crude math, that seems like 4 amps of 12V DC power continuously running through the lighter outlet... Notwithstanding potential battery drain, is that circuit up to it, or should I consider the TV to be only useful when 110V power is available to drive the power transformer??

I may need to contact Sharp for adapter plug, since units I see at local electronic places for radar detectors and other small 12V gizmo's seem to be fused at 2 or 3 amps max...

John McG

p.s. TV is real easy to mount, picture is great, and it takes very little space
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Old 09-16-2004, 07:33 PM   #9
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The cigarette lighter should have a fuse in a panel somewhere. Minimum wire size in any RV is 18 ga, I suspect the cigarette lighter socket is larger than that.
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Old 09-17-2004, 06:02 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by walter1
I’m installing a Dometic RM2551 refrigerator in 64 Safari. What type plug/connector is typical to install in wall for 12vDC?



It requires a constant 12vDC line in addition to 110AC & propane. I have new 12v wires run inside wall to the frig area. I can run ground to wall stud/frame. I can install a polarized 110v type wall outlet easy but not sure it’s a good idea because it looks like 110v.

What’s used for 12v connectors M/F besides 12v lighter type socket?
Dometic publishes a minimum wire size in both their installation and troubleshooting manuals. As I recall they want a ground line on the newer models due to possibility of noise (rf and potentially AC) that might inhibit the function of the solid state control circuit. A few RV refrig companys mentioned in the forums have published these on their websites.

I nearly always run a separate ground line for electronically controlled gear.

About the connection. Check out a good electronics supply store or catalog for options. One option is a set of "banana" plugs and jacks. They handle a lot of current and are distinctive from other sockets. The rise in popularity of high-end car audio means that there area lot of 12VDC connectors and accessories now commonly available than a few years ago - including super heavy wire gauges and high quality corrosion-free terminals. I also wonder why you need a disconnect on this 12VDC circuit other than perhaps a switch that can handle the load.
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Old 09-19-2004, 12:53 PM   #11
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Thanks for all the help. The reason for a disconnect was to not have 12v hot wires just sticking out through wall to refrig. Run to connector mounted in wall instead. I had planned to splice to the 12vDC+ wire that runs to an old 12v lighter type outlet well above the refrigerator. It is old stock wiring, orange, and used a short white wire from the socket to the mounting screw (interior wall) for ground. I know a separate 12v- wire is preferred, but that entails 20 foot run through who knows where and I have found several places where frame is being used for ground of my 12v system. All appears stock. I know 12vDC and 24vDC systems often use chassis as ground (as in cars and military aircraft).


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