Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×
 

Go Back   Airstream Forums > Airstream Restoration, Repair & Parts Forums > Electrical - Systems, Generators, Batteries & Solar
Click Here to Login
Register Vendors FAQ Community Calendar Today's Posts Search Log in

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 06-16-2014, 05:49 PM   #1
Rivet Master
Commercial Member
 
bredlo's Avatar
 
1954 22' Safari
Deerfield , Illinois
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 1,419
Images: 23
Send a message via AIM to bredlo
12v/120v System From Scratch

Hi fellow 'streamers,

We've passed some exciting milestones so far in our reno: new axle, holding tanks, floor. Fantastic fans are in, windows have been painstakingly restored and rivet stems are filling the driveway. Most appliances have been purchased, and two shiny layers of Prodex are ready to install into a clean, empty shell.

By week's end, we hope to have traced down all leaks, installed the first layer of insulation, and leap into the next phase: electrical.

I have almost no hands-on experience, have limited understanding, and don't own or know how to use a multi-meter. I've read many threads and am not afraid of research. I'd probably like to hire an electrician (or boat / trailer expert) in the NE Illinois / SE Wisconsin area to let me "shadow" them on this... but meanwhile I'm always appreciative for any advice or links to I can at least collect the right supplies.
  1. I'd like a simple, elegant system sized for a week of boondocking, as we have at least enough water and propane capacity for that. I realize that's difficult, given how much depends whether we sip - or gulp - our electricity.
  2. Love the idea of solar but currently have little interest in making the commitment.
  3. I'd like to get by without a generator for the time being. If we do get one, a little Honda eu2000i would hopefully augment the system nicely.
  4. Along with a converter, I'm interested in a pure sine inverter so we can charge laptops and run a few appliances when boon docking. Wondering if there are combo units...
  5. Batteries: AGM, vented, sealed, 12v, two 6v golf cart batts... I don't have a preference, but will do homework rather than ask you to rehash something so easily researched.
  6. Keeping within a 30AMP breaker (vs. 50) seems preferable given cheaper campground spots, if possible.
  7. For the moment I want to plan for an incandescent bulb-based system vs. LED., as it seems going the other direction would be more difficult.

Here's what we're planning for.
120v:
  • Air conditioner. Haven't bought one yet - likely a 6K BTU window-style unit hidden behind a cabinet: 5.2-5.6 amps
  • Charging 2 laptops, 2 iPhones, iPad and camera battery (at once): maybe 8 amps
  • 1000w Hairdryer: 8 amps
  • Coffeemaker: 6-9 amps
  • Around 10 lights, avg. 60 watt bulbs: 5 amps
  • Some type of household fan: 1 amp
  • Perhaps a half dozen outlets dispersed around the trailer (zero draw when not in use?)

33 - 36 amps for 120v (we obviously wouldn't run everything at once)
  • 12v:
  • 2 Fantastic Fans: 5.2 amps
  • Shurflo pump: 7.5 amps
  • Isotherm fridge/freezer: 6 amps when compressor running, 2.3 when not.
  • RV-550 NSP tankless water heater: Unknown
  • 8 exterior lights: clearance/brake/license/porch:11 amps?
So that's 30 amps, and because I can more easily imagine the items on this list running simultaneously, I suppose this bumps us up into 50 amp territory whether we like it or not?

Hopefully I'm not too misinformed so far. I'd like to begin running wire soon, and perhaps collect some of the fuse panel, batteries, charger, and other elements for our system. I tend to like well-designed marine industry products, i.e. Blue Sea, etc., if you like specific brands beyond what VTS offers.

Thanks in advance!
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0239.jpg
Views:	146
Size:	251.9 KB
ID:	214326  
__________________
Brad
bredlo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-17-2014, 12:50 AM   #2
4 Rivet Member
 
2004 16' International CCD
Chicagoland , Illinois
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 265
Images: 2
What a great project! It reads as if you're having a good time too.

A few comments for your consideration:

1. A week's worth of boondocking is going to require a multi-battery setup using some big batteries. Especially if you don't want to use a generator. It might be more cost-effective overall to buy less battery capacity and purchase a generator.

6. Another consideration is that the 50 amp connectors and pigtails seem to be much more expensive than their 30 amp counterparts.

7. Many LEDs use about 1/8th of the power of a comparable incandescent bulb. Since you want to boondock for up to a week at a time the power savings of the LEDs will be important. For what it is worth, I just converted most of my trailer's interior lighting from incandescent to LED (20 fixtures total). It really isn't difficult - only time consuming. I would venture to say that almost anyone can do it if they have the right tools. Since you are starting from scratch, it really shouldn't be any more difficult to install the LEDs than it would be to install the incandescents.

You might want to do a deeper dive into your AC requirements. I think that 5K BTU might just be like pissing into the wind?

When you have the lights wired you might consider spreading the lights out across multiple breakers. That way it will be less likely that you'll ever have all of the lights disabled at once. Also you might want to use 12 VDC lighting instead of the 120 VAC bulbs that you've specified.

Your list is missing several important electric users that you might want to add:

Furnace fan
Detectors (smoke, propane, CO)
Tank level system
Breakaway switch
External lighting count may be low. Strongly consider LEDs
Exterior 120 VAC and/or 12 VDC receptacles
Several interior 12 VDC receptacles
Radio
Range hood fan and light

I just purchased my first Blue Sea products and am impressed with the quality of their design and construction.
Airrogant is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-17-2014, 09:03 AM   #3
Rivet Master
Commercial Member
 
bredlo's Avatar
 
1954 22' Safari
Deerfield , Illinois
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 1,419
Images: 23
Send a message via AIM to bredlo
Quote:
Originally Posted by Airrogant View Post
Your list is missing several important electric users that you might want to add:

Furnace fan
Detectors (smoke, propane, CO)
Tank level system
Breakaway switch
External lighting count may be low. Strongly consider LEDs
Exterior 120 VAC and/or 12 VDC receptacles
Several interior 12 VDC receptacles
Radio
Range hood fan and light
I did miss a few things on the list - thanks!

I'll do more homework, work on an overhead diagram and update the thread.

6K BTUs appears on most charts as sufficient for a 150-200 sq. feet, and our 22 footer is around 130. I'll look more closely at what people are putting in trailers though, as that may affect things.

Thanks for the suggestions!
__________________
Brad
bredlo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-17-2014, 11:05 AM   #4
4 Rivet Member
 
2004 16' International CCD
Chicagoland , Illinois
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 265
Images: 2
AS put an 11,000 BTU AC unit into my little trailer. I've tested it with ambient temperatures up to about 85 degrees F in partial shade, and it still works well. The bigger trailers started out with one 13,500 BTU unit.
Airrogant is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-17-2014, 11:18 AM   #5
Rivet Master
 
TG Twinkie's Avatar
 
1974 Argosy 26
Morrill , Nebraska
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 6,014
Images: 2
Blog Entries: 5
Look at a thread by Lucymcdog. It is an entire rewire of a small coach.
TG Twinkie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-17-2014, 11:19 AM   #6
Rivet Master
Commercial Member
 
bredlo's Avatar
 
1954 22' Safari
Deerfield , Illinois
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 1,419
Images: 23
Send a message via AIM to bredlo
Quote:
Originally Posted by Airrogant View Post
AS put an 11,000 BTU AC unit into my little trailer. I've tested it with ambient temperatures up to about 85 degrees F in partial shade, and it still works well. The bigger trailers started out with one 13,500 BTU unit.
Amazing - quite a difference, I plan on using a through-wall type sleeved window AC unit, perhaps under the dinette seat. I have no desire to go through a ton of work and find out I don't have enough "oomph" to cool the trailer, especially if the spot I build out won't hold a bigger unit. Thanks for the heads up!
__________________
Brad
bredlo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-17-2014, 11:22 AM   #7
Rivet Master
Commercial Member
 
bredlo's Avatar
 
1954 22' Safari
Deerfield , Illinois
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 1,419
Images: 23
Send a message via AIM to bredlo
Thank you TG, I'll do that now.
__________________
Brad
bredlo is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
12v


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
12v Television runtime VS 120v TropicGuy Audio, Video & TV 23 09-28-2010 09:33 AM
All 120V and NO 12V? photocodo Electrical - Systems, Generators, Batteries & Solar 7 12-09-2009 02:59 PM
120V AC/12V DC Norcold Mike S Refrigerators 12 08-22-2008 10:39 AM
Is DSI 12v or 120v? dickwhite1 Water Heaters, Filters & Pumps 2 06-25-2006 05:21 PM
Changover Trouble(120v-12v) 73ANDY Electrical - Systems, Generators, Batteries & Solar 5 04-22-2003 09:04 PM


Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by the Airstream, Inc. or any of its affiliates. Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 09:52 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.