we're about to leave for a trip next week, and my electrics are acting up. Here's the scoop: All was working fine (went on a trip 2 weeks ago with no problems) with our current battery dead (old, need a new one). I was plugged into the van, using the power jack to lift the trailer, van combo to release the weight distribution bars, when I went to power down the jack, nothing happened. All 12v lights, etc are now dead inside with the van connected. Intellipower charge wizard light is off with the umbilical cord attached to the van. Brakes work, with my voltmeter, I get power to all prongs on the van's 7 way connector. All fuses on the IP are fine as are in the fuse block. Since my battery is dead, I hooked up our generator, now all 12v lights etc inside work, as does the jack. The charge wizard lights up. With the van's feed, everything 12v is dead.
What's between the feed and the IP that could have blown? I looked all around for some kind of junction box, but can't find anything that looks or could be one.
OK - Just before I tried to replace my battery, I plugged in the trailer to the van and.... the power jack worked, but none of the lights! So I thought, maybe the trailer's dead battery is inhibiting the current somehow, so I replaced the battery.
So with my trusty voltmeter, here's some readings -
1) New battery is 12.4 volts - lights and jack work without the van.
2) Before I put in the battery, I had the voltmeter on the battery cables with van attached...0 volts. With generator running - 0 volts. Hmmm
3) With battery attached, and generator running (off of eco power - EU2000), I get 12.4 volts. With IP on boost mode, still 12.4 volts. Voltmeter does not budge with or without the generator running.
4) I look at all fuses again, still ok.
5) I put voltmeter at 12v circut (at fuseblock + and at IP negative), generator on and boost mode on 14.4 or so volts.
So why am I not getting a charge at the battery? IP is wired at back with two (+) posts one with + for battery and the other for the fuseblock. The two negatives are one for the - on the battery and the other for the - on the 12 volt circut.
I was about to run out and get battery cables, thinking this was the problem, but then I thought, "but why does the 12 volt circut run the lights etc off the battery?)
Marc
Don't know how much of a '78 Sovereign panel will transfer to the Argy, but the Sovereign panel has TWO breakers mounted on the right side of the fuse panel.
BOTH of these fuses need to be operational for the power jack to function with the TV voltage. Breakers are automotive type from any auto parts store.
The breakers in both the picture and the schematic are on the far right side, mounted one above the other.
__________________
Dennis
"Suck it up, spend the bucks, do it right the first time."
I wonder if I have a distribution panel like that...I've torn apart the whole dinette, no luck. The only fuses that I have are the 4 120 volt ones, + the 4 fuses (that I replaced with a new fuse block) that were attached the orginal univolt (I have an IP now).
This picture will show a breaker of sorts (self-resetting) that is within an access panel on the belly skin just aft and outboard of the 'A' frame on my '65 Safari. (see edge of spare tire on right)
It is connected to the main power supply of the TV through the umbilical. The larger blue on left (held in hand) is 'in' from the TV ... where it goes from there - I just haven't got that far in my restoration.
Do you possibly have something like this under your rig? If so, it may have died or one 'out' lead may have failed.
That's my best shot!
__________________ NORM #3305
"... there is nothing you can't fix yourself ...
... if you're handy ...
... with a check book! ..."
I'll go take a pic - I do have something like this inline with my maze of wires at the A-frame, but it's encased with rubber. Does it have a switch to reset, or does it reset by itself? I did fiddle with this a bit, and then the jack worked... but I didn't think this was it. It may be! What kind of amperage is it, and how would I test it.... or replace it.
Marc
Does it have a switch to reset, or does it reset by itself? I did fiddle with this a bit, and then the jack worked... but I didn't think this was it. It may be! What kind of amperage is it, and how would I test it.... or replace it.
Marc
It will reset itself once it cools, unless it is defective. Normally this would be a 20 or 30 amp breaker. Most of the big box auto parts stores will have them. Cut it out, crimp on ring lugs and re-attach the wires. Re-casing in rubber coating, no clue what to use.
__________________
Brett G
WBCCI #5501 AIR # 49
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1978 Argosy 28 foot Motorhome
Wise men talk because they have something to say; fools, because they have to say something. -- Plato
Would it overheat if the amperage draw was large and the battery close to dying? Not sure why it would trip, as the jack runs well.... well, as well as I've know it too. I'll replace it before my trip!
You guys know all the answers!
I found out I had two problems actually
1) The tripping breaker and
2) After much chasing (and swearing, mostly at my stupidity), I was on the right track with the "bad battery cable" theory. But the sad reality was that I had pushed the negative battery lead in to far into the Intellipower. I think I made intermittent contact with the back of the socket, but the hold down clamp in the socket was actually pushing down on the insulated jacket of the wire. Hard to conduct electricity this way.
I don't know why it was tripping to be honest. I'll have to test the jack some more... basically it tripped right after I used the jack to lift the van/trailer combo to release the weight distribution bars on the hitch. When I went to use the switch to lower the jack, I had nothing.
I'm not sure why it tripped. I have in the past noted a spark from the feed line when I moved the wires, but I thought I got rid of that when I spliced in some new wiring to the jack..... there was a short in the piece I got rid of, and I haven't noted that problem since (1 yr ago leaving Beverly Beach).
Marc
If your lifting both, the breaker may be weak (?) and tripps out under the load ... and it hasen't re-set itself by the time you are attempting to lower the unit.
If you wait a while, will it then allow you to lower the unit?
At least we apparently have isolated the problem.
Further, when you clean the coating off the breaker, can you read any data on it's case?
You may also have a resetting breaker on your tow vehicle fuse block. Check your owners manual for the TV. I believe my Excursion has a 30 amp.
__________________ NORM #3305
"... there is nothing you can't fix yourself ...
... if you're handy ...
... with a check book! ..."
hi- well I've caused my self a headache- the kind where you don't sleep well, and when you do, you dream about the problem. Last evening I used a peice of wire to jump between the battery-charge socket and the running light socket of my umbilical, to experiment with turning on the running lights with no tow vehicle. It worked great, until, in my stubborn stupidity, I tried to also find out if my back-up lights worked. Yes, I ended up shorting out the entire trailer by going from battery-charge to ground. I beleive I heard an audible click from that end of the trailer, near the plug-in for the umbilical. I found a blown 50-amp fuse, I beleive on the negative side next to the univolt (hard to get at), replaced it with one I found in the trailer, but still no lights inside. Before doing any more damage, I came in the house. What have I done, and what's to be done? I'll go out this morning and start testing from the battery outward, testing all fuses as I go- but if that doesn't help, how do I know if it's that circuit-breaker thing before I start digging into the belly-pan? thanks!- tim
hi- well I've caused my self a headache- the kind where you don't sleep well, and when you do, you dream about the problem. Last evening I used a peice of wire to jump between the battery-charge socket and the running light socket of my umbilical, to experiment with turning on the running lights with no tow vehicle. It worked great, until, in my stubborn stupidity, I tried to also find out if my back-up lights worked. Yes, I ended up shorting out the entire trailer by going from battery-charge to ground. I beleive I heard an audible click from that end of the trailer, near the plug-in for the umbilical. I found a blown 50-amp fuse, I beleive on the negative side next to the univolt (hard to get at), replaced it with one I found in the trailer, but still no lights inside. Before doing any more damage, I came in the house. What have I done, and what's to be done? I'll go out this morning and start testing from the battery outward, testing all fuses as I go- but if that doesn't help, how do I know if it's that circuit-breaker thing before I start digging into the belly-pan? thanks!- tim
Tim, there are TWO 50 amp fuses, one for the + and one for ground. You have probably blown the ground fuse also.
It is located (or should be) on the wall near the Univolt.
Good luck.
__________________
Meddle not in the affairs of dragons, for you are crunchy, and taste good with ketchup.
Terry
hi- after only an hour of testing continuity from the battery on down the line, found the problem- apparently a greenish semi-corroded end of the black negative cable going from ther negative fuse block (which had blown) over to the univolt- after cleaning (and praying) it seems to work just fine now. Why it worked before the short-out, and not after, I have no clue. Apparently the circuit breaker thing that's rumored to live up front, above the belly pan, does not need fixing. A corroded cable end! I dreamt all night of ruined univolts, melted wiring all through the coach, exploded batteries, selling her for $50 on ebay, etc... Now that the electric is functioning properly, I'll try to refrain from experimenting and jury-rigging further- it's too scary when it goes dead and you don't know why. I'm a carpenter and should really stick to that, but I'm the sort of person that wants to get into everything, a DIY nightmare. Today I think I'll try to re-thread a stripped window-latch bolt, maybe re-caulk the door frame- I promise I won't monkey with any wires!--tim
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