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Old 04-18-2021, 05:19 PM   #1
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2004 25' Classic
LaPlata , Missouri
Join Date: Sep 2019
Posts: 29
12 volt breaker location

My owner manual indicates there is at least one breaker on the side of the distribution panel in our 2004 25' RB classic. the panel is under the couch in front of the converter. The panel i can see is really a terminal block where the 12 v circuits originate. But I do not see any breakers. I assume there has to be breakers somewhere. But where? any on able to help?
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Old 04-18-2021, 05:23 PM   #2
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2014 20' Flying Cloud
Sag Harbor , New York
Join Date: Jun 2015
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You might want to check in the sub-forum which includes your 2004 Classic:

https://www.airforums.com/forums/f252/

This 2006-2010 [all lengths] sub-forum may help too IMO:

https://www.airforums.com/forums/f366/

Do any of these images look familiar?

https://www.google.com/search?source...w=1296&bih=658

https://www.google.com/search?q=2004..._AUoAHoECAEQAA

Good luck.
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Old 04-18-2021, 05:29 PM   #3
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2007 30' Classic
Oswego , Illinois
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PEJensen View Post
My owner manual indicates there is at least one breaker on the side of the distribution panel in our 2004 25' RB classic. the panel is under the couch in front of the converter. The panel i can see is really a terminal block where the 12 v circuits originate. But I do not see any breakers. I assume there has to be breakers somewhere. But where? any on able to help?
If same as mine, the breakers are part of the positive buss. They are inside the plastic buss bar holder. They are self resetting.
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Old 04-18-2021, 06:13 PM   #4
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2007 30' Classic
Oswego , Illinois
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There are 5 "main" self resetting breakers inside the first photo's black plastic housing.
There are quite a few manual resetting breakers inside the distribution panel (shown folded down) inside the black metal case on the door. Click image for larger version

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Old 04-19-2021, 09:10 AM   #5
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2017 30' Classic
2022 Interstate 24X
Carlisle , Pennsylvania
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Hi

The breakers involved are *not* the normal "breaker with a switch on it" gizmos. These are a fully enclosed breaker. There is no way to turn them on or off. They cut out and then after a bit, reset themselves. This can make for some *really* odd behavior when there is a modest overload.

If you pull up the "bus bar" you will find the shiny silver bodies of the breakers under the bus bar. The screw lugs that look like they are part of the bus bar assembly are actually screw down lugs on the breakers.

Crazy !!

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Old 04-19-2021, 09:35 AM   #6
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In this photo, you can see the tiny black button on the bottom of the top breaker and the top of the bottom breaker. When tripped, use your fingertip to press these buttons in order to reset the breaker. These are the manual resetting breakers in the distribution center. Click image for larger version

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Old 04-19-2021, 09:38 AM   #7
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2006 34' Classic S/O
Fort Worth , Texas
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If your DC breaker panel is like my '06 built in June '05 the breakers must be manually reset. There is a little black button on the end of the metal case. Just push it in to reset. The button will not stay in if the fault continues if it does look for a wire that has burned in to due to a short circuit. If your trailer is a Canadian export model you may have fuses instead.
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Old 04-19-2021, 10:45 AM   #8
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2003 30' Classic S/O
Riverdale , New York
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There were three sets of breakers in my Classic 30 Slideout. They are located under the couch. The first set are two 50A Type II self-resetting breakers to protect the batteries. In the first photo I have circled these in red (one has already been removed) and blue. They are screwed to the front wall.



The 2nd set are in the + 12VDC bus (green circle). There are four of these. They are also Type II. There is a 50A to the breaker box. There is a 30A to the slide-out motor. A 30A from the Tow Vehicle charge line (pin 4 on the connector). And a 20A to the electric brakes.



The final set are in the breaker box (blue circle). These are NOT self-resetting. A pin pops out of each one if it is triggered and it must be manually pushed out to reset.


I replaced this god awful battery-killer charging system with one of my own design (see below) and swapped in Lion's. If you substitute an charging inverter to produce 120VAC you can eliminate the relay and power supply. I didn't need this because I already have AC from my solar system.
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