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06-27-2006, 07:11 AM
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#1
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New Member
1972 31' Sovereign
Wakefield
, Massachusetts
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 1
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Replace Floor
We have just purchased a 1972 31' soverign international. We are pondering a decision to replace the floor. I've read several articles, advising different materials. What is the best type of plywood, and why??
Thanks,
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06-27-2006, 07:31 AM
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#2
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Rivet Master
1976 25' Tradewind
.
, Maine to Arizona
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 622
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Congratulations
Good for you. Hope you have as much fun in yours as we have.
Some like marine, some like thicker than stock. I like a good outside grade, one good side, standard, same as stock thickness plywood.
Does your frame have any sag?
My frame is rusted because of the way the belly aluminum overlapped the sides under the bottom edge trim.
The insulation held the water and severly weakened the frame. The frames were not overbuilt in those years.
R
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06-27-2006, 09:01 AM
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#3
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Remember, Safety Third
1973 27' Overlander
Catfish Corners
, Georgia
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,720
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BecketBob72
We have just purchased a 1972 31' soverign international. We are pondering a decision to replace the floor. I've read several articles, advising different materials. What is the best type of plywood, and why??
Thanks,
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Hi, Bob. I used 3/4" exterior B/C grade in my new floor. Marine grade is probably better to use, but cost nearly 3 times as much. Couple that with the fact that it's a good idea to epoxy certain areas and treat the rest with some other type of sealant, I figured the Marine grade wasn't worth the extra cost. Fastrob is right about the leaks. There is a design flaw (IMHO) in the way the belly pan attaches in the '70's model trailers. Water just pours in. I'm working on a fix for it now and should start putting it all back together in the next few days.
Welcome to the forum, by the way.
You can see how I did it here: http://www.airforums.com/forum...nte-15132.html
Jim
P.S. Got family in Lynnfield.
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06-27-2006, 03:02 PM
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#4
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Rivet Master
1959 26' Overlander
Putnam
, Connecticut
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 3,064
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Things will line up better if you use the same thicken, likly 5/8. Please review all the related issues before you start. It will save you time and money and maybe your sanity. You will find frame problems under the floor. I believe it is easier to replace the floor with the shell off. But of course that is very scary.
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06-27-2006, 03:09 PM
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#5
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Patriotic
1973 23' Safari
North of Boston
, Massachusetts
Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 4,546
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Over59
Things will line up better if you use the same thicken, likly 5/8.
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they changed to 3/4" in the early 70's...not sure exactly when. (perhaps w/ the body style change in '69?). Anyway...73 is definately 3/4"...I would bet 72 is, too.
__________________
Air:291
Wbcci: 3752
'73 Safari 23'
'00 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4 QC
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07-05-2006, 04:35 PM
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#6
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Rivet Master
1973 31' Sovereign
Portland
, Oregon
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 1,255
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There is another recent thread asking some floor replacement questions:
http://www.airforums.com/forum...oor-24006.html
In my post #6 there I point to a number of other places where there is floor replacement information. One of them describes a material that I used for my floor that is an alternative to plywood. I like the results but I have noticed that the price of the material that I used seems to be going up. I evidently got in on the ground floor with reasonable pricing.
Regarding the plywood thickness on 70's vintage trailers there was a change to the aluminum channel at the bottom of the walls so that it has a c-shaped part on the bottom into which the plywood fits. For that reason you would want to use plywood of the currect thickness or you will have to shave the edges down to fit. My '73 had 3/4" plywood by the way.
Malcolm
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07-06-2006, 03:53 PM
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#7
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Rivet Master
1971 27' Overlander
Central
, Ohio
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 2,365
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I was wondering if Jim could expound on the "design flaw" that lets water pour in - we just purchased a 71.
Thanks... Gary
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07-06-2006, 06:23 PM
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#8
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Remember, Safety Third
1973 27' Overlander
Catfish Corners
, Georgia
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,720
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Gary, there's a pretty discussion of it here, begining at post #82. http://www.airforums.com/forum...e-15132-6.html
Basically, the belly pan fits over the outside of the upper shell of the trailer. Water simply runs down the side of the trailer and directly into the belly. If there are any specific questions, let me know.
Jim
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07-24-2006, 08:16 PM
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#9
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Rivet Master
1971 27' Overlander
Central
, Ohio
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 2,365
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Read through all the posts that Jim refered me to above (thanks) - they scared the heck out of me. Some have the belly overlapping - some underlapping - some with no type of sealant. Finally have the 71 out of the shop and parked where I could look at it. The beltline does have a sealer along the top edge - looks like the same stuff as along the seams - needs some minor touch up. Any thoughts on whether I should pull back part of the beltline just to be sure whats there or its it one of those no foul no harm situations - the floor is solid.
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